Author Archives: Manuela Duque Hernandez

‘Discomfort’ and ‘The Gaze’

Since our first ISL pre-departure sessions, we were warned that we would feel uncomfortable and would need some time to adapt to our new environments. We also learned that discomfort should be used as a learning opportunity—that is, we should not only be prepared to feel uncomfortable during our placements, but we should actually strive to get out of our comfort zones in order to foster a heightened sense of critical thinking, reflection, and self awareness. As one of my favourite professors at UBC told me when she heard about my trip: “I hope you get a chance to feel uncomfortable, but secure enough to be open to all the new experiences!” So, when I say I felt “uncomfortable,” I do not mean it as a complaint, but as a positive experience!

Sure, I had been warned that Swaziland would be very different from Canada (and even Colombia). I was expecting different landscapes, different weather, different cultures, different people, different buildings, and even different meals from the ones back home. What I did not expect, however, was a different identity. By this, I do not mean that Swaziland has magically transformed my identity; I mean that the way I am perceived by others (and even by myself) is very different from the way that I am perceived back home.

Katie and I have been staying with our host mum for almost two weeks now, and it has been great! We live in an area called Egelekeceni (the C is pronounced with a click sound and the K actually sounds like a G). Mama Phindile, Londiwe, Katie, and I live in the same house. Mama Letla (Mama’s sister in law), her four children, and Telephone live in neighbouring houses.

Mama’s house

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Beautiful landscape in Egelekeceni

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Mama, Katie and I

On the first day with our host family, Telephone showed us around Egelekeceni. As we walked by the stores and the crowded streets, Telephone started dancing, greeting neighbours, introducing them to us, and teaching us more Siswati words. Even though it was very exciting to be walking around the homesteads and experiencing a little chunk of Swazi life, I have to admit that this was also the first time I actually felt “uncomfortable.”

In preparation for my placement, I took a research-based sociology course where we learned how to conduct informal interviews, ethnographies and observation. I was expecting to come in as a researcher—to somehow observe this new environment and gain a better understanding of the social world around me. However, Katie and I were not “observing” as much as we were “being observed” during our walk. Telephone told us that locals were not used to seeing “people like us” walking around dirt roads. We were being gazed at, and it made me uncomfortable.

But, why did I feel so uncomfortable being observed? Of course, there is the obvious reason: we, Westerners, are taught that staring at people is rude. But, beyond that, the act of “looking” has a deeper meaning. According to psychologist Jaques Lacan, “The Gaze” (actually borrowed from film theory,) describes the relationship between “the observer” and “the observed”. Typically, “the observer” is considered to be the subject— the person who determines how to define, describe and label “the observed”. The “observed,” on the other hand, loses agency and is rendered as an object that is at the mercy of the gazer’s assumptions.

I am not used to being the “object” of the gaze. This new position made me feel uncomfortable because it showed a clear reversal of the operation of power that I had foreseen—I am no longer a researcher attempting to interpret data, but am now an object of research. An object that is clearly privileged, white and foreigner. Again, I am not using the word “uncomfortable” to victimize myself; I want to start using this term in a more positive light!

 I have been in Swaziland for almost two weeks now and have gotten more used to the ‘gaze.’ I also think it is diminishing as people around our community and workplace become more familiar with us. Most importantly, I realized that (sometimes) it is important to be ‘gazed at’— I can’t expect to engage in cross-cultural service work if all the learning and observation is only flowing one way. I can’t uni-laterally observe and not expect to be observed. This “uncomfortable” experience has also made me more cautious of the way that I interact with people and environments around me. I must avoid reducing people (or cultures) to objects of study, even when undertaking assessment and research work in SOS Children’s Village. Instead, I must acknowledge that we are all complex, ever-changing subjects, with agency and valuable knowledge.

As for the assumptions that the “observer” can hold, it is important that both parties go beyond “gazing,” and actually begin communicating in order to break down stereotypical suppositions about a person. Although the language barrier has made this more difficult, Katie and I have started having conversations with neighbours, people at the Kombi station, and SOS staff. These conversations have broken down many of our assumptions, and (hopefully,) some of theirs!

Mlilwane Game Reserve

Our ride from the airport to the Mlilwane Reserve was breathtaking! Although we were all exhausted from the flight, I wasn’t able to fall asleep. As our Kombi –small, often overloaded van used to travel around Swaziland–played a mix of Hip-Hop and Gospel music, I stared at the beautiful landscape in awe.

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We stayed at the Mlilwane Game Reserve for a couple of nights before heading to our host families. Katie, Shanice and I shared one of these awesome cabins:

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For me, some of the highlights of our time at the reserve were: getting to know each other better, seeing some very cool animals, and (obviously) the food! From our team “meetings” with Jabu (our team leader in Swaziland) and our long conversations about Swazi traditions, North American culture, and marriages—I have noticed that, although we are a very diverse group in terms of personality and backgrounds, we all share a deep interest in traveling, learning about different cultures and, most importantly, development.

Here are some photos of our awesome team! In the second photo, we are all having a yummy breakfast that was prepared for us on the firewood. I particularly enjoyed the Pap or maize “porridge”— a delicious dish that is common in Southern Africa and is usually mixed with milk and sugar for breakfast.

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And last but not least… here are some pictures of impalas, zebras and hogs!! (sorry for the bad quality photos, I’ll try to get better ones next time).

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Our stay at the Mlilwane Reserve was a great way to start our trip! I can’t wait to meet our host families 🙂

Swazi Airport and a Note on Aid

We arrived in the Kingdom of Swaziland today 🙂 ! After 36 hours of travel, we reached the Swazi airport and were greeted by a beautiful sunset and a cool breeze. As we walked into Manzini’s recently renovated airport, we saw three large photos on the main wall: One of His Majesty King Mswati III, one of Her Majesty Queen Mother Ntombi, and the last of His Excellency the Prime Minister of Swaziland- Dr. Barnabas Sibusiso Dlamini. I was surprised to see a picture of the Prime Minister because I was under the impression that Swaziland—the last remaining absolute monarchy in Africa— did not have a parliamentary system. Clearly, I was underestimating the complexity of Swaziland’s political system! (I will be writing a post on Swazi politics to better explain this).

I didn’t even have to leave the airport to realize how kind-hearted and friendly Swazi people are. As I was going through customs, the airport official taught me some Siswati words and gave me a map of the country. So, now I can say Sawubona (Hello) and Ngiyabonga (Thank you) 🙂

While we were waiting for the rest of our group, another airport official approached Katie and I and asked us what we were doing in Swaziland. We told her that we would be volunteering, but she did not seem satisfied with this answer. “What exactly are you doing?” she asked, out of curiosity. We explained that we would be interns at SOS Children’s Village in Mbabane and would be working with the “mothers” at the organization, but she still wanted more— “…but will you only be there to play with the children and spend time with the mothers? Or will you be providing some resources?” She seemed somewhat disappointed when we told her that we had not brought any resources with us. However, when we clarified that our work was based on research and program assessment, she got excited again: “Ohh, so you will write a report about the organization’s needs, send it to your country, and they will provide the resources!”

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[Incidentally, the novel that I am currently reading (“El Amor en los Tiempos del Colera”) has a very interesting passage that might help me articulate the contradictions of aid. In the book, affluent Doctor Juvenal Urbino and his wife fly across an extremely poor Colombian village on their modern hot air balloon. As they soar over the river, Fermina Daza literally starts to throw food, clothes and medicine to hundreds of naked children who begin to dive into the water in order to rescue the resources that the “beautiful woman with the feathered hat” is tossing. ]

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The conversation with the airport officer in Swaziland immediately reminded me of the complexities of development work. Of course, we do not simply want to “throw” food or resources at people from a hot air balloon like Fermina Daza. We must avoid replicating colonial models of aid by which a “wealthy” person with a feathered hat supplies the “least advantaged.” Above all, we must deconstruct the power dynamics and assumptions that underlie these models of aid. And by “we” I mean everyone – from the kids in the river to the privileged people riding the hot air balloon.

On the other hand, we also need to acknowledge that basic goods are necessary and, in some cases, urgent. The woman at the airport made it clear that resources are highly needed in some parts of Swaziland, especially because the political environment in the nation is not particularly conducive for aid (international institutions and developed nations are often deterred from supplying aid to so-called “non-democratic” nations.)

This got me thinking: to what extent are observation and research truly helpful when basic resources are scarce? Is there a way to balance participatory development and aid?

Hopefully, I will be able to further reflect on these questions as I begin my work at SOS Children’s Village Mbabane and get more familiar with Swazi society.