The Court of Master Bros
by Jessica Mill
SOMM is a documentary written and directed by Jason Wise that follows four men as they prepare to take what is arguably one of the most difficult exams in the world.
Successfully taking the Master Sommelier diploma earns you one of the highest distinctions in the wine industry. The pass rate for the exam is around 10%, making it one of the most failed exams in the world. Hopefuls not only need to know just about everything there is to know about wine and wine production, they also need highly developed palates that can discern varietals, blends, regions and even vintages simply from taste.
The film follows four of these hopefuls: Ian Cauble, Brian McClintic, Dlynn Proctor, and Dustin Wilson. If you thought cramming for undergraduate finals was tough, wait until you see these guys. Rooms filled with note cards and hand-drawn maps dominate their homes and most of their waking lives are dedicated to training and study.
While I found the film inspiring, my problems with it are exactly the same problems that I have with a lot of movies. It’s a total bro-fest. And while the Court of Master Sommeliers is, arguably, also a total bro-fest (of the 135 people who hold that title in North America, 19 are women) the film does nothing to challenge the status quo.
Countless experts spoke at various points during the film and not once was a woman Master Sommelier featured. Women were so few and far between in this film that one might be left to wonder if they exist at all in the world of wine, outside of the role of dutiful wife. A couple of the candidate’s partners played ancillary roles in the film: cleaning up spit buckets after late night study sessions, lamenting the absence of their men during the intense two weeks prior to the exam, and worrying while waiting for the results.
I tend to take these kinds of things personally because, as a woman in the industry, I know exactly what it’s like. Constantly being talked over, dismissed, or completely ignored at tastings and events is just part of the routine. I have no doubt that I will always have to work twice as hard and be that much more accurate in my knowledge just to retain even close to the level of respect that my male colleagues receive.
SOMM had the opportunity to give a voice to women in the wine industry and to create a more equal playing field, even if it still featured only male candidates. I felt quite let down that it did not.
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