Floreana is one of four inhabited islands in the Galapagos and while Roger and I had visited Post Office Bay and Punta Cormorant on the north side during our cruise in November, I had yet to see the small town of Puerto Velasco Ibarra (population ~ 120). I got my chance three weeks ago when my neighbours (Cristina and Matthias) and some other folks from the research station were there running an environmental education program for the local kids. Since there is no regular ferry service to Floreana, I hitched a ride with a boat of day-trippers to make the 1.5 hour trip.
Although it was Friday, people had the day off to celebrate Galapagos Day. The town started the festivities with a reverse relay triathlon (bike, run, swim). There were only four teams in the race since bicycles are scarce on Floreana (a hilly island with thorn-covered lava roads). The station’s team won!
One group from the station is living in a house on Black Beach (with marine iguanas and sea turtles building nests nearby). I had a swim and some lunch, and then we headed over to the community centre where most of the townspeople were enjoying grilled beef, yucca and salad (a second lunch for us).
In the afternoon, my friend Angela and I walked up the road to Las Palmas where the other group from the station was living, and where I was going to stay. En route we passed the cemetery where Margaret and Heinrich Wittmer are buried. They were a German couple who came to Floreana in the 1930s and whose descendants still live on Floreana.
After the scenic but tiring 30 minute walk uphill, we rehydrated on ciruelas (small plums) from the orchard at Las Palmas.
The house is built on the site where two other early inhabitants, Dr. Ritter and Dore Strauch had lived. Dr. Ritter died under mysterious circumstances from food poisoning, and with a bit of wandering through the orchard and direction from Matthias, we found his grave.
We visited with Cristina and Matthias over coffee, cake and more ciruelas (this time in the form of juice – throw them in a blender, pits and all, and then strain). We then walked back to town, arriving just as the light was fading. After a delicious supper with the group at Black Beach, we wandered over to the soccer field which doubled that night as a dance floor. Initially only two pairs of young people were dancing but with encouragement from the MC and a generous pouring of canelazo (a hot cinnamon drink), the dance floor filled up, and we grooved to the beat of reggaeton. It was reported the next day by friends at Black Beach that the music played until 6am. Meanwhile I slept peacefully at Las Palmas and woke to the sound of birds chirping and the smell of fermenting ciruelas.
The next day, I visited La Loberia which is a sea lion area and a great place to snorkel. The rain came as we finished our swim, and we enjoyed a freshwater shower which has become a luxury living in the Galapagos.
That night the Black Beach crew made the trek to Las Palmas, and there were 13 of us from 8 different countries for dinner.
The following day I returned to Puerto Ayora, travelling again with a group of day-trippers. It was a wet ride! It poured before the trip. Then as part of the tour, we stopped at La Loberia for a snorkel, and the skies opened again. It cleared up for some of the ride but upon reaching Puerto Ayora, it poured again. Dare I say it? I was actually feeling chilled by the time I got home!
I enjoyed my mini adventure to Floreana, having read the fascinating tales of the Wittmers and the Ritters even before I came to the Galapagos. The trip was a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of Puerto Ayora and was especially fun because friends from the station were there.
