No sleeping in this Saturday. We were up at 5 am for a 6 am pickup and drive over the island to our waiting boat at Itabaca canal (near Baltra Island). At first glance our boat looked a bit rough around the edges but we discovered it had a good layout and was large enough to accommodate the 21 passengers and crew without crowding for the leisurely 2 1/2 hr trip to Isla Bartolome. We knew it would be a good day when we saw a school of golden rays swim by the dock.
Bartolome, while small may be one of the most visited islands in the Galapagos. There are two main attractions: the hike up the boardwalk to the top of an extinct lava cone and possibly the most photographed view in the islands, and the bay below at Pinnacle Rock where you can snorkel and enjoy a small sandy beach.
On the boardwalk to the top we saw small lava lizards munching on low tiquilia shrub flowers that grow on the barren gravelly tuff slopes. The shrubs seem to be evenly spaced, which ensures equal access to the scant water available. The lava lizards here are primarily vegetarian although I am sure they would relish an insect if available.
Most of our group were French geologists who were very interested in the different kinds of lava. They had their own translator who would take their questions and translate into Spanish for the guide. He would reply in Spanish which the interpreter would then turn into French and so on.
While the lava was interesting, Sally and I decided to go on ahead and enjoy the view from the top and wait for the group there.
Following the hike we went back to the boat for a cold coke and collected our snorkeling equipment. Our panga dropped us off at the base of Pinnacle Rock and for the next hour we explored the shoreline between there and the nearby beach. We saw schools of yellow tailed surgeon fish that were accompanied by colourful parrot fish who swam just under them…..not sure why. We also swam with a couple of penguins who fished right around us.
Back on the boat for lunch it seems I was not the only one who was ravenous after the activities as everyone tucked in heartily.
Cruising home in the sun and calm seas, we could see that it was raining in the highlands on Santa Cruz as we approached. Sure enough, on the bus ride home when we stopped to visit Los Gemelos craters, everything was fresh and wet from the recent downpour. Back home we elected to eat in rather than go out………happy but tired campers.
This was probably our last trip to see another island. I’m still one island ahead of Sally because of my trip to Santiago (not that anyone is counting).
This post is late as the tsunami post took precedence. Three weeks ago we took a cruise to the northwest of Isabela, clockwise around the top and down the east side crossing the equator twice.
Day 1: We started March 3rd from home base in Puerto Ayora and drove to the highlands to visit the giant tortoise reserve and the nearby large lava tunnel which was old news to us but new to our friend Pete who was visiting from Vancouver. Back to the boat for dinner and a meet and greet with our crew who wore their crisp whites for the occasion. Near midnight we cast off for Puerto Villamil, the town on Isabela (where we had spent six peaceful days at Christmas).
Day 2: Following a 7am breakfast, our guide Dario led the way in our two pangas (zodiacs) to Las Tintoreras, a large lava outcrop just off Isabela. Our panga was lucky to see a large group of penguins swimming close to the boat.
We did a one hour walk along a restricted path through hundreds of marine iguanas that were digging nests and competing for spots in the softer lava gravel beds. We witnessed an iguana laying eggs but unfortunately, they were exposed to the air so would not survive.
In the afternoon we went ashore and visited the tortoise nursery where young giant tortoises are fostered until large enough to be repatriated to their respective volcanoes.
The return walk brought us through a salt lagoon where we saw four flamingoes feeding and had the good fortune to see nine more fly by.
Just after we got back to town for an afternoon at the beach, heavy rains started, and several of us happily sat in an open air restaurant having a beverage or two…
Day 3: We woke up anchored at Punta Moreno where we went on a rough lava walk. En route we could see the sources of the massive lava flow, Volcan Sierra Negra and Volcan Cerro Azul.
We passed lava cacti and a few oases which are salt water lagoons in the middle of the lava fields. One contained feeding flamingos, and we saw that when the water is too deep for wading, flamingos can swim like swans.
After lunch we motored to Elizabeth Bay and once the tide had dropped, we took the pangas into the mangrove waterways to look for sea turtles. We only saw a few since the water was still high but en route, we passed a small lava outcrop that hosted pelicans, flightless cormorants and penguins.
Day 4: Sunrise found us anchored in Tagus Cove where we went for a morning hike past a salt lake to a high viewpoint. From above, the lake appears to be higher than the ocean but in fact, it is not. The lava is just a porous barrier between it and the sea.
Following the hike, we went snorkelling where we swam among penguins, sea turtles, sea lions and cormorants, and for those of us without wetsuits, we felt the stings of tiny jellyfish.
That afternoon we motored across to Punta Espinoza on Isla Fernandina where the walk took us through swaths of basking marine iguanas, sea lions, nursing pups, flightless cormorants, sea turtles and the bleached bones of a small whale.
Back on board, we headed northwest along the coast of Isabela, crossing the equator for the first time at around 5:15pm. We celebrated with a G & T.
This part of Isabela is rugged and spectacular, and the sunset was okay too.
Dinner was finished by the time we turned right across the top of Isabela which was fortunate because the ocean had become rough for the first time on the trip. Around 9pm Sally’s stomach and nerves were feeling fragile, so we made our way to the top deck for fresh air and stargazing. An unexpected treat was being accompanied by ghostly swallow-tailed gulls that make curious clicking sounds. They are the only night-feeding gull in the world and fish up to 30km from land.
The voyage throughout the night was rough (apparently, that leg is), and only smoothed out shortly before our dawn arrival at Playa Las Bachas, back on Isla Santa Cruz. There we went ashore early in order to see the nesting sea turtles before they left the beach. We barely succeeded; there was evidence in the soft sand of departed turtles, and only one remained. She was just finishing covering her eggs before slowly hauling herself back into the sea.
Our cruise ended at Baltra where we made the familiar trip by ferry across the Itabaca Canal and by taxi to our casa in Puerto Ayora.
Friday started like any other day. Roger got up first and made coffee.
When I came downstairs, he had already read about the earthquake in Japan and was on the phone with our neighbour who called from Quito to let us know the news.
At that point, we didn’t really understand that there was a risk for the Galapagos, so Peter (our friend who is visiting) left for a day trip to North Seymour Island, and I headed off to work a little while later. A few blocks from the house, I met Pete who had yet to be picked up by the tour company, and a woman from the research station who told me that the station was closed. President Correa had decreed that the coastal communities in Ecuador be evacuated to higher ground. For citizens of Puerto Ayora, this meant going to the town of Bellavista in the highlands. For Lonesome George and the baby tortoises, it meant a trip to Santa Rosa.
Thus began a day of waiting since the tsunami was not expected to reach the Galapagos until the evening. Since Roger and I live in a 2-storey house quite high up already, our place became the refuge for some folks who were staying at the station. Amazingly, the internet was fully functional, and at one point, we had four laptops, 1 Blackberry, 1 iPhone and 1 iPod touch all connected and checking for the updates. I was happy to learn that librarian colleagues who were gathered in Newport, Oregon for an annual meeting had moved to higher ground until the threat had passed.
In addition to following the news and checking in with family and friends through email and Facebook, we pretty much spent the day eating, drinking, talking and playing games. Based on the predictions of minimal wave heights in the Galapagos, we decided to remain at home in Puerto Ayora where we were comfortable and dry.
According to the Pacific Tsunami Warning Center web site, the first wave in the Galapagos (at Baltra Island) was predicted for 5:54pm. We climbed onto the roof and waited until the sun set but the ocean remained calm.
Just after going back inside, the power went out which meant no lights or water (since our water is on an electric pump). Luckily our group was well equipped with headlamps and lanterns, and Roger had collected rainwater which we could use for dishes and flushing toilets. [As it turned out, the power didn’t come back on until the following morning.]
It wasn’t until we walked down to Charles Darwin Avenue at about 7:30pm and saw debris on the road, that we realized that the first wave had arrived after dark. We met a police officer on a motorbike who told us that they were expecting another swell and that we should go home.
Later that night when we heard people returning from Bellavista, we ventured out again to inspect the damage. Buildings right on the waterfront including the Red Mangrove hotel, the Banco Pacifico, the Pro Insular (the big grocery store) and two beautiful galleries had their ground floors flooded. Other buildings just set a few feet higher were completely spared. The strangest thing was seeing this blue boat lying on the road. Without a motor, it was light enough to be carried by the wave.
The streets which had been dark and quiet were now busy again with taxis and buses returning people to their homes. My friend Luis who had returned to the station sent me a much appreciated text, “the library is fine”.
The next day, Pete and I walked out to the station so I could see the library for my own eyes and to turn on the air conditioner in the bodega which had turned off during the power outage. Roger and I had moved books and archival materials from the lowest shelves, hoping that an extra foot or two would make a difference. As it turned out, our efforts were thankfully unnecessary. The worst damage to the station was to the Biomarine Sciences building which is right at sea level.
Later that day, a few of us took a trip to Garrapatero which is a beautiful beach on the east side of Isla Santa Cruz. We were amazed to find that the waves had carved a channel, effectively splitting the beach in half, and creating a shallow creek between the ocean and the flamingo lagoon 200 metres inland.
Although it was mostly sand and rocks that had been moved by the waves, we did see little fish and this small shark in the mangrove forest. A strange site indeed.
Today we went to Tortuga Bay, and it looked like the waves had done no damage. I expect over the next few days, we will hear reports on how the animals fared throughout the islands. The sea turtles and the marine iguanas are nesting right now and may have been impacted by the tsunami.
Floreana is one of four inhabited islands in the Galapagos and while Roger and I had visited Post Office Bay and Punta Cormorant on the north side during our cruise in November, I had yet to see the small town of Puerto Velasco Ibarra (population ~ 120). I got my chance three weeks ago when my neighbours (Cristina and Matthias) and some other folks from the research station were there running an environmental education program for the local kids. Since there is no regular ferry service to Floreana, I hitched a ride with a boat of day-trippers to make the 1.5 hour trip.
Although it was Friday, people had the day off to celebrate Galapagos Day. The town started the festivities with a reverse relay triathlon (bike, run, swim). There were only four teams in the race since bicycles are scarce on Floreana (a hilly island with thorn-covered lava roads). The station’s team won!
One group from the station is living in a house on Black Beach (with marine iguanas and sea turtles building nests nearby). I had a swim and some lunch, and then we headed over to the community centre where most of the townspeople were enjoying grilled beef, yucca and salad (a second lunch for us).
In the afternoon, my friend Angela and I walked up the road to Las Palmas where the other group from the station was living, and where I was going to stay. En route we passed the cemetery where Margaret and Heinrich Wittmer are buried. They were a German couple who came to Floreana in the 1930s and whose descendants still live on Floreana.
After the scenic but tiring 30 minute walk uphill, we rehydrated on ciruelas (small plums) from the orchard at Las Palmas.
The house is built on the site where two other early inhabitants, Dr. Ritter and Dore Strauch had lived. Dr. Ritter died under mysterious circumstances from food poisoning, and with a bit of wandering through the orchard and direction from Matthias, we found his grave.
We visited with Cristina and Matthias over coffee, cake and more ciruelas (this time in the form of juice – throw them in a blender, pits and all, and then strain). We then walked back to town, arriving just as the light was fading. After a delicious supper with the group at Black Beach, we wandered over to the soccer field which doubled that night as a dance floor. Initially only two pairs of young people were dancing but with encouragement from the MC and a generous pouring of canelazo (a hot cinnamon drink), the dance floor filled up, and we grooved to the beat of reggaeton. It was reported the next day by friends at Black Beach that the music played until 6am. Meanwhile I slept peacefully at Las Palmas and woke to the sound of birds chirping and the smell of fermenting ciruelas.
The next day, I visited La Loberia which is a sea lion area and a great place to snorkel. The rain came as we finished our swim, and we enjoyed a freshwater shower which has become a luxury living in the Galapagos.
That night the Black Beach crew made the trek to Las Palmas, and there were 13 of us from 8 different countries for dinner.
The following day I returned to Puerto Ayora, travelling again with a group of day-trippers. It was a wet ride! It poured before the trip. Then as part of the tour, we stopped at La Loberia for a snorkel, and the skies opened again. It cleared up for some of the ride but upon reaching Puerto Ayora, it poured again. Dare I say it? I was actually feeling chilled by the time I got home!
I enjoyed my mini adventure to Floreana, having read the fascinating tales of the Wittmers and the Ritters even before I came to the Galapagos. The trip was a welcome break from the hustle and bustle of Puerto Ayora and was especially fun because friends from the station were there.
I recently had a rare opportunity to assist with a Galapagos Hawk quarantine program for 12 days on uninhabited Isla Santiago. The hawks had been captured from nearby islands, one of which was undergoing a rat eradication project. The rats in question are black ship rats (Rattus rattus), an aggressive introduced species which is endangering native populations of birds and turtles. Using sophisticated GPS mapping, a helicopter dropped poisoned bait on the island. Twenty hawks had been removed to prevent them from eating the contaminated rats.
The quarantined hawks were housed in a purpose built structure on Santiago and kept in six large cages according to social group. The adults were dark brown to black with yellow feet and yellow curved beaks. The females weighed 1000-1200g and were larger than the males who weighed 800-900g.
We fed the hawks once daily from a menu of four kinds of meat. My main job as handler was to hold the hawk while the real hawk whisperer drew blood to check for parasites and general health. To handle the bird safely and securely, I grasped its lower legs between the fingers of my right hand while positioning the bird comfortably on its back on the examining table. The hawks were never vocal and did not struggle once held in this submissive position. They just fixed you with an unwavering stare as if to say, “If you loosen your grip, buddy, there will be trouble”.
In addition to the quarantined hawks, we were visited daily in camp by local juveniles looking for a free meal. Our favourite was a female who we named La Bamba after the campsite. Her plumage was mottled light and dark brown, and she had lovely sharp black talons. She became territorial and would chase away other juveniles from her new turf. She was totally unafraid and would only move if you attempted to touch her feet and even then, just a short distance.
Our camp was right on the beach under the mangroves. At night under the brilliant starry skies, we were lulled to sleep by booming surf as it broke over the offshore lava reef. One night when the tide was particularly high, I moved my tent back a few feet since it felt like the waves were lapping at my feet.
Wherever you go in the Galapagos, you are up close to the local fauna. In camp every day, aside from the hawks, you could see blue-footed boobies, pelicans, frigate birds, lava herons, lava gulls, wading shorebirds, Great Blue herons, Sally Lightfoot crabs, marine iguanas, a young sea lion and many finches.
Unlike most people who go home at midday, I eat my lunch at the station (Roger makes a delicious tuna sandwich with capers). While the shady gazebo and the director’s beach are nice, my favourite spot is on the ramp at Biomar (the marine sciences building). On any given day, I see at least half a dozen species (crabs, pelicans, frigate birds, herons, lava gulls and yellow warblers) but the real entertainment is watching the marine iguanas and the change in their behaviour over the past several months.
There are seven subspecies of marine iguana (Amblyrhynchus cristatus), and they vary in colour and size depending on the island. The most colourful are on Isla Española but the ones on Santa Cruz are quite attractive, especially the large males that take on a green tinge during the mating season.
The first time I went down to Biomar, the iguanas were stretched out across the path like cows on a country road. I had to carefully step over them. Now they congregate on the small pier and the rocks close to the water perhaps because the weather is warmer.
Marine iguanas feed on red and green algae in the intertidal zone and must warm up before and after feeding trips. When the water was cooler, they would come out of the water and plonk themselves down to warm up a bit before moving to higher ground. Now they come up the ramp immediately and often climb the wall of the pier to get to their resting place.
In the midday heat, marine iguanas look like sun worshippers. In fact, this is a strategy to avoid overheating. By facing directly into the sun, they decrease the surface area that is exposed to the rays. When it was cooler, the smaller iguanas would lie together to stay warm; now I think they’re competing for the shade.
During the breeding season, males are more aggressive and indicate their strength by showing their broad side to other males and by head bobbing. They chase away smaller males, and when there is a confrontation, it is settled by headbutting.
The lay of the land has changed. Initially there were six large males in the area. Now there are only two that fiercely guard the pier, and the others have been relegated to the margins. I often see other males attempt to come ashore, and they are quickly chased back into the water.
Mating has started despite the seeming reluctance of the females (sorry, no photos). The females will lay their eggs in March or April. The eggs take 3 to 4 months to incubate, I won’t be around to see the next generation of marine iguanas. I’ll just have to enjoy images like this.
On the afternoon of Christmas Eve, we took the 2-hour boat ride to Isla Isabela accompanied by our friend Mike who had just returned from a 3-day cruise of the southeast islands. That evening the hotel staff at Casa de Marita prepared a delicious Christmas meal complete with turkey (yum!) and spice cake for dessert.
Compared to the hustle and bustle of Puerto Ayora where we live, Puerto Villamil on Isla Isabela is a small tranquil town with sandy streets and a beautiful long beach. Except for Mike’s hike to Volcan Chico, we took it pretty easy and still managed to see flamingos and penguins.
The most exciting thing to happen was the rescue of a frigate bird. Mike and I watched from a distance as a group of boys threw what looked like a piece of fish or meat into the air for the frigate birds to catch. It turned out that the bait was tied to a reel of fishing line, and the “successful” bird became completely ensnared. It was heartbreaking to watch it soar into the air only to be pulled down and entangled further. Eventually it crashed to the ground, and Mike followed the line to reach the bird. While Roger held it (with beak scars to prove it), Mike carefully cut the line. Once released, it wobbled for a moment and then flew away, so we hope that there was no lasting damage. We’re not sure if the boys intended to harm the bird (more likely they were just not thinking through their actions) but we relieved them of their fishing line.
Mike left on the 27th for the two day voyage back to Vancouver by boat, taxi and plane(s), and Roger and I stayed a few more days extending our reservation by one night. When we did try to leave at 6am on the 30th we found we weren’t on the list and the boats were full, so back to the hotel until another boat left in the afternoon.
The day we left Isabela we received the sad news that my cat Stella had died. She was 17 years old and hadn’t been well for the past few weeks. Many of you know that I’ve had Stella since I moved to Vancouver in 1995 because she “came with the apartment”. Since then, she moved with me numerous times, sometimes sharing her space (albeit unwillingly) with others like Pudding, Kat, Mickey and Yogi. She came to Ontario with me when I was finishing my thesis, and she actually moved in with Roger four months before I did. I’ve been fortunate to have such good friends to take care of her over the years, and that Jackie and Dave stepped in at the end when her health failed. Stella spent her last few days at their cabin on the Sunshine Coast eating, sleeping and sitting on Jackie’s lap. Here are a few photos of Stella.
Not wanting to end on a sad note, here is a photo that we took today at the beach near the Darwin station. We wish everyone all the best for 2011! Apparently, Puerto Ayora is quite exciting on New Year’s Eve with burning effigies and loud fireworks, so there may be interesting photos to come.
Holiday greetings from us down here on the equator. We will be back on Isla Isabela at Casa de Marita over Christmas, and we will be joined by Mike S from the running club who is under strict orders to bring us fruitcake among other essentials. The citizens and businesses of Puerto Ayora are well into the seasonal spirit as evidenced by the many brightly decorated store fronts and creative nativity scenes. Sally has been taking pictures to show you their enthusiasm.
Wishing all our friends and family a very Merry Christmas!
On Saturday, November 27 we began our long awaited 4 day cruise to the SE islands which as you know are the oldest islands in the Galapagos as they were formed at the NW hot spot then migrated to the SE. Consequently they are eroded and flatter with more vegetation.
We boarded our yacht Galaxy in Puerto Ayora harbour at noon and relaxed while waiting for the rest of the tour group who were arriving by air from the mainland.
The yacht had capacity for 16 but it turned out our group was only going to be 9. (Yay for last minute booking). Sally and I were accompanied by our friend Richard, a visiting scientist from Australia, and we joined a young couple from Switzerland who were already on board. Arriving by plane were two British couples who completed our group. An excellent mix of people and a first rate crew and guide made for a memorable trip. Everyone got acquainted over our first of several tasty meals together and went to bed knowing that when we woke up the next morning we would be anchored off Isla Floreana.
Breakfast every day was at 7am and in the interest of brevity, let me say that all breakfasts, lunches and dinners were very good. By 8 am, we were onshore at Punta Cormoran where we walked to a nearby brackish inland lagoon frequented by flamingos.
The lagoon was very low but we did see two flamingos at a distance which official photographer Sally captured with her big new telephoto lens.
A short walk in a different direction took us to a brilliant white sandy beach well known as a green sea turtle nesting site. The turtles were cruising just offshore when we visited and come on land at night to lay their eggs. Back at our landing site we went snorkeling and were lucky enough to swim with a turtle.
After lunch on board, the yacht moved along the coast to anchor in Post Office Bay. This is the spot where in 1793 ships bound for the Pacific whaling grounds would leave letters in a barrel to be picked up by homeward-bound ships whose crews would deliver the mail by hand. Following tradition, we left some mail so a few of you may receive a card delivered by a stranger. A walk further inland (which we didn’t do) lie the rusted remains of a failed 1920s Norwegian fishing operation.
At 5pm we set out in the panga (inflatable dinghy) in search of Galapagos penguins. We were in luck and got up close to the little guys as they rested on a lava outcrop. We also saw sea turtles along the way and in a quiet spot, resting white tipped sharks.
After another overnight sail or motor if you will, we arrived at Gardner Bay on Isla Espanola. Our morning beach walk started with the now familiar indifferent gauntlet of lobos marinos. All beaches have lobos, all sizes, all the time but this beach had LOTS!
Here is a video of the beachmaster or alpha male who during the breeding and calving season constantly swims back and forth along his sandy turf, barking, warning and chasing off potential rivals.
Also on Gardner Bay, we observed some peculiar behaviour. As soon as we were on shore, we were mobbed by thirsty Espanola mockingbirds (one of four Galapagos species). These hazel eyed residents are constantly in search of water and know that humans have it. While you are not allowed to water or feed them to avoid interfering with the natural order, they hope someone has a leaky waterbottle.
The marine iguanas on Espanola are a subspecies and are more colourful than those on the other islands. During the breeding season, the males’ red and green colouring is even more pronounced.
After lunch we motored for an hour along Espanola arriving at Punta Suarez where for the first time we had to share an island with a large cruise ship. This stop to visit the waved albatross nesting ground was the main reason we took the cruise, and I felt frustrated about sharing the space. No worries, it all worked out. On shore while getting organized for the birdwalk, we watched a group of sea lions with many young playing in the shallows and newborns that were barely able to nurse. The barking beach boss was never far away.
The walk exceeded expectations. We saw not just one or two albatrosses but a whole field of juveniles, many with partial baby feathers.
This nesting ground was the same one you see in the National Geographic videos, and it was a different feeling to be there with these stately and at the same time goofy looking birds.
In the video below we captured a juvenile prompting its parent for food.
On the ground, albatrosses waddle like big slow ducks but in the air they are masters of grace and power.
While we came to see the albatrosses, other birds nest in this area too. There were boobies everywhere.
Nazca boobies:
Blue footed boobies:
Our cruise ended the next morning in Puerto Baquerizo Moreno on Isla San Cristobal, the provincial capital. We visited the interpretation centre which opened in 1998 and does a beautiful job of presenting the human and natural history of the islands with an emphasis on conservation issues. Behind the centre we did a short hike to see the statue of a young Charles Darwin located at the spot where he first set foot in the Galapagos in 1835.
That afternoon we took a taxi to the highlands to visit El Junco, the only year round fresh water lake in the Galapagos. Our hotel owner warned us that given the weather conditions, the lake could be fogged in. She was right. We couldn’t see a thing. We have pictures to prove it. If we get the chance, we’ll return to San Cristobal and try again.
After our return from Argentina, we had our first Canadian visitors, Wally, Terre and Emma! It was great to spend time with friends from home. Here they are feasting on empanadas.
During their visit, we went to Isla Isabela which is the largest of the Galapagos Islands and located in the northeast of the archipelago. To get there, we took a two hour boat ride from Puerto Ayora to Puerto Villamil, the main settlement on Isabela. We stayed at La Casa Marita which is such a charming hotel that Roger and I have decided to return there for Christmas.
Through the hotel we arranged a guided hike to Volcan Sierra Negra which is one of five active volcanoes on Isabela. After a misty start, we hiked under a blue sky through lush vegetation until we reached the caldera. We were amazed at the size (more than 10 km in diameter) and to learn that the east side had last erupted only five years ago.
We continued along the crater rim and then headed down the trail to stop for lunch under the shade of a Jaboncillo or soaptree. How a large tree can thrive in such an austere environment is truly impressive.
The next part of the hike took us to Volcan Chico, a smaller volcano located on the northeast side of Sierra Negra and with a beautiful view of Elizabeth Bay.
Here the walking was rough, and the vegetation thinned to a few cacti and then to nothing at all.
We walked on lava that came from eruptions in 1963 and 1979, and from many years before that. We saw lava tubes and felt the heat from a steam vent where our guide said we could boil an egg.
He compared the landscape to Planet of the Apes while all I could think of were the styrofoam rocks in the old Star Trek episodes.
After exploring Volcan Chico, we retraced our steps back to the misty beginning where our driver was waiting with refreshing coca cola! When we returned to the hotel, Roger and I walked right into the ocean to clean the dirt from our feet.
When we return in December, I would like to do the longer hike to see the sulfur mines on the west side of Sierra Negra but Roger is leaning more towards lying in the hammock and drinking pisco sours.
