Posted by: | 29th Aug, 2010

Around town

Today our coffee ran out. Not all is lost however as we will try a recommended local brand (Lava Java) to tide us over for the next month while we wait for a special delivery of Juan Valdez from the mainland. Don’t think for a moment that we will not be placing orders with anyone coming this way.

Since we arrived we have lived in two places and later this week we move into the third. On arrival we stayed in Darwin campus housing and were then offered a housesit for 11 days. Yesterday while investigating a permanent rental we were offered the adjoining suite for a month while its owners were away, a perfect way to see if we liked it as our suite would be the mirror image.

Puerto Ayora is the hub for trips throughout the islands so there is a lot of activity harbourside with people and supplies. The road from the harbour along the waterfront in town has many shops catering to tourists that range from the ordinary clothing and mementos to glossy highend jewelry. There are plenty internet places so you don’t need to bring your lappy.

Unloading supplies

Construction is all concrete, concrete frame and then filled in with concrete block. It looks rather rough until the finishing crew comes in and applies a smooth finish coat which is then painted.

concrete

The food is concentrated around fish, chicken, pork, beef and beans. Veggies are available but not as varied or as nice as we are used to. Not until Saturday morning market that is. With set up starting at 4 am. and largely over by ten, it is a spectacle of fruit, veg and protein. There are also hot food vendors who will provide breakfast. Prices are very good and the produce is the freshest you will find all week. Needless to say it is very popular and crowded. Anyone travelling here should time their visit to include market day.

market

One of my favourite spots is the place in the center of town where the fishermen come in with their daily catch. You have to fight your way past the scrap scrounging pelicans and competing sea lions before you can buy sushi grade fresh yellowtail tuna for $2,oo/lb.

yellowfin

A few blocks away from the waterfront is a block of small open air kioskos or small restaurants that offer basic Equadorian fare at bargain prices. We eat there often but on some nights guiltily go to a more expensive place that has nicer surroundings but basically the same food.

Regarding travelling, I think that 3 or 4 days in PA itself would be sufficient time to see this island (Isla Santa Cruz). Other island excursions would be in addition to that. There are many companies selling day trips and diving trips. It seems to be cheaper to book trips from here, and if you are flexible and adventurous there are last minute deals to be had. Forget Christmas – vacations were booked a year in advance!

Posted by: | 23rd Aug, 2010

On the Galapagos

Not all of Isla Santa Cruz is this beautiful but the 50 minute walk to Tortuga Bay was well worth it. There’s a surfing beach and then a quieter beach further on, perfect for swimming (even in the cold season).


Roger & Sally at Tortuga Bay

Roger & Sally at Tortuga Bay

When we arrived we stayed at the research station for a few nights (a short commute to work). Now we’re housesitting for an Australian couple who are on vacation for two weeks. We plan to view a house this week that comes available in October.

Our accommodation at the station

Our accommodation at the station

Evening view

Evening view

Here’s a glimpse of the wildlife we’ve seen at the station, in town and at Tortuga Bay.

Intellectually curious small ground finch

Intellectually curious small ground finch

Tortoise nursery

Tortoise nursery

Pelican biting off more than he swallow

Pelican biting off more than he swallow

Marine iguana on the path

Marine iguana on the path

For more photos from our first 7 days on the Galapagos, see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sataylor/sets/72157624785248326/

What about the library, you say? On my first day, a tourist from Italy came in for a visit, and on the week-end, I helped a visiting scientist from Spain find the recently published thesis by Charles Darwin’s great great granddaughter (thankfully available in an institutional repository). I also seem unable to avoid journal moves! The library’s low use journals were recently moved “off site” (i.e. a 5 minute walk away), so I’m working with another woman to reorganize them. We need more insect traps for the cucarachas!

Posted by: | 17th Aug, 2010

High on Quito

Last night we arrived late (1am) but safe and sound in Quito and are staying in a gorgeous hotel (Dann Carlton) with friendly service and beautiful roses.

Roses in the Dann Carlton hotel lobby

This morning we visited the Old Town where there are 7 churches dating as far back as 1534. Outside the Church of San Francisco (below), we met an arts student (Luis) and practiced our Spanish with him. He taught us the word “chevere” which means cool. We may check out his hometown Loja in the south. Nearby in the town of Vilcabamba, there is supposedly a 130 year old woman and a perfect climate year round (perhaps a connection).

San Francisco
We had lunch in the old town where Roger enjoyed a tasty 3 course meal for $3.50 complete with blackberry juice (juego de mora).

Blackberry juice

In the afternoon, we took the gondola ride up the side of the volcano. Accents are important. It took a while for the taxi driver to understand that we wanted the Teleférico not the Teleferíco.

Teleferico

Already suffering a bit from the altitude in town, we went higher to 4100 metres. We drank coca leaf tea for strength but learned from a local that it didn’t contain any coca. We still felt better.

Exhausted Roger

As we write at 6:30 local time, it’s dark outside.

For more photos in Quito, see: http://www.flickr.com/photos/sataylor/sets/72157624623805919/

We leave tomorrow for the Galapagos.

Posted by: | 17th Jun, 2010

Galapagos travels

We have our visas for Ecuador, and our flight to Quito is booked for August 16. I’ve set up this blog to share our Galapagos experience with friends, family and colleagues. Because I have no Galapagos photos of my own yet, I’m using a beautiful image for the header that I found on flickr. It is a Sally Lightfoot crab taken by A_E_P.

iguanas

Iguanas in Amsterdam

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