Monash university defines fashion cycles as “The process by which a particular design, activity, colour, etc comes into some popularity and then phases out.” This also means that trends that were once popular will begin to be at the forefront again. With the rise of fast fashion, these trend cycles are getting shorter and shorter going from what used to be 20 years to now micro trends that last a few months before saturation.
So why is it that we are conditioned to just keep buying new stuff? When fashion is inherently cyclical how is it that today’s fashion industry is running on an outdated linear, take-make-waste model?
Well, it’s because the fashion industry is broken. Just how broken?
The MacArthur Foundation reveals how the throwaway nature of fashion has resulted in a business that emits 1.2 billion tonnes of greenhouse gases per year – more than international flights and shipping combined. It warns that “if the industry continues on its current path, it could consume more than 26% of the carbon budget associated with a 2C pathway by 2050.” According to the report, less than 1% of the material used to make clothing is recycled into new clothing; a truckload of clothing is wasted every second around the world; and the average number of times a garment is worn before it is no longer usable has decreased by 36% in 15 years.
The report recommends four actions:
- phase out harmful substances and microfiber release
- increase clothing utilization, such as by supporting and encouraging clothing rental businesses
- drastically improve recycling;
- and transition to renewable materials.
Where are we now? There are four major business models that circulate goods and materials in the economy today.
- Rental
- Resale
- Repair
- Remaking
While the rental and resale models have been around more largely in recent years, Mending in all forms (simple sewing repairs, patching, and remaking) is on the rise. The internet is filled with helpful how-to videos on how to make our clothes last longer, thrift flipping and restyling. LVMH, the world’s largest luxury group, has announced “sophisticated” repair services will be announced by 2023. Hugo Boss’ new resale marketplace will soon also include the possibility of repairing items. Tommy Hilfiger also plans to expand its repair services. Many designers, including Arc’teryx, Barbour, Ganni, Patagonia, and Uniqlo, have already implemented programs.
Comment below if you have any repair/remake tips of your own or thrift store recommendations, thoughts or advice.
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January 25, 2023 — 8:38 pm
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Shahed Ovi
January 27, 2023 — 4:00 pm
Hey! I think this is amazing and sums up our current situation with fashion really well. There are so many clothes in my wardrobe that I attach so much sentimental value to but don’t wear as often because it’s “out-of-style”. Clothes really are a great way to express yourself and we shouldn’t have to become a society where we have to keep letting go of things – that made you feel so good when purchasing them – to fit in. I also think the rental & repair is an amazing opportunity, sustainability wise. Can’t wait to see what the future scope of sustainable fashion is.
annesha banerjee
January 29, 2023 — 6:18 pm
Hi Janhavi,
This is a great and poignant article about the state of the fashion industry at present. You are right in stating that the fashion industry is broken and heavily needs to be fixed. With about a truckload of clothes being wasted almost every second, we have to question why the time between the purchase and disposal of clothes and other fashion products is so short. It is very heartening however to see well-known luxury fashion brands try and make a change in their operations and work towards making fashion more sustainable
EmilyNold
February 21, 2023 — 3:56 pm
Hi Janhavi! I resonate with a lot in this article. I am personally interested in the resale market – I think we forget how much great stuff already exists.
My question is around implementation. How do you think change like this could happen? Do you think it will be an integrated mix of players like we are seeing right now? Or, will government have to step in and make massive changes?