I knew that the Machu Picchu area was going to be very touristy but I was still a bit disappointed with just how touristy it was. This town was built for tourists and it shows. Up and down the street there were restaurants with people outside trying to get me to come in to eat an over priced meal with a promise of a free but tiny Pisco sour. The streets were awake until early in the morning, very unlike Pisac. I was strongly reminded of tourist spots like Whistler Village or Niagara Falls. There were times walking down the street where I could have thought that I was in the US somewhere. There were strong consumer tourist vibes around. It made me wonder about locals who lived there and what that was like for them. Were they being priced out of the area by chains and tourist companies? Where could they live in this area? Most things were priced much higher than they were elsewhere. In the craft market there was a silver snake ring that I really liked but the vender told me it was 110 soles which was crazy. She tried to convince me that it was a good price and brought it down a little but I remained unconvinced.
I was very happy to find places that were not tourist areas like the mercado where I could get lunch for 10 soles. When I explored a bit more I also found areas that were clearly made for locals. It was like a world change happened. I crossed the river and I was finding places that were looking more like real lived in areas, not flashy tourist stuff. There were big differences in areas with the structure depending on who the space was made for, tourist or local. I felt more comfortable in the non touristy parts as they felt more authentic to me. I liked walking around and seeing homes and little businesses and families sitting together. It felt more alive but you could also see how some places were not as cared for with metal roofs and old brick that had seen better days. There was much more garbage in a river on the locals’ side than the touristy side. It was interesting a bit sad. In one place there were nice restaurants and stores with hotels and bars for visitors to come and drink while in another there were old buildings with metal rods sticking out.
Hi Anja,
You saw my annoyance with some of the touristy aspects of Agua Calientes in real time- especially when we were dragged inside that overpriced restaurant that literally said it was “turistico” on the outside. By claiming that it’s supposed to be touristy, they’re trying to make it seem more “like home” for foreigners. However, it feels like they’re alienating us instead in a way, making it feel not very homely at all. This definitely does contrast to other areas where “touristness” isn’t pushed on us, but it makes me question whether we’re trying to escape, somehow, the identity of what we are in the first place.
“There was much more garbage in a river on the locals’ side than the touristy side. It was interesting a bit sad.” This observation is very interesting for several aspects. At the hotel where we stayed they proudly told me that Aguas Calientes is one of the few places in the Sacred Valley where garbage separation has been strict for many years (referring, of course, to the tourist part). I heard a hint of pride in that conversation. Honestly, I have no reason to doubt the words of those who live there. But the distribution of the city tells us of a postmodern cartography where the quality of Letrada (Lettered) has disappeared and serves other distributions while still being discriminatory for a large part of the population. Even the central square of that small city seems more like a simulacrum for pictures than the space where powers are concentrated.