Displayed in the exhibition of the LAYERS OF INFLUENCE: UNFOLDING CLOTH ACROSS CULTURES in the Museum of Anthropology, this piece of lady’s court robe inherited from Chinese Qing dynasty reveals the superb artistry and the unique style of female clothing at that period of time in China.

This  silk tunic has a relatively straight body and full sleeves.With the size suited for an adult female, the tunic has a length of 3 feet, sleeves length of 2.3 feet, and a waist width of 2.5 feet. This tunic is made by dark navy silk and has a damask-weave design of the peonies in the middle that represents noble and glory; there are three copper buttons and loops in the middle, shows a classical type of Jifu in ancient China for female.The broader of the hem and the sleeves are lined with cream-silk bands embroidered in polychrome floss silk with peonies, orchids and butterflies motifs. The bands begin again midway down the centre front of the tunic, continue along the bottom hem and midway up the sides.The sides of the tunic have open ends with embroideries of auspicious symbols of clouds, weaved in silk and silver-wrapped metal thread on silk satin. Peonies, orchids and butterflies are also spread evenly on the back of the tunic as fellas the front. Observe this robe in detail, you will find the appliance of sliver lurex produces glimmer in its embroidery. Meanwhile, the collar is fastened at the neck and spread out across the shoulders, around the collar are more bands, floral on cream background, solid blue and purple, green on tan background, weaved by silk and silver threads on brocade and intersperses with seasonal flowers and magpies. The privilege of wearing this kind of ceremonial collar is only granted by the emperor.This robe combines a series of symbols: peony as the queen of flower in China to refer the feminine beauty; orchid with their subtle fragrance and elegance to represent love, beauty and fertility; butterflies symbolize peace and blessings; magpies are badge of happiness and fortune.

The theme of this robe is arranged in the color of dark navy, with decorative details in light blue and white. The color choice delivers that the owner of this piece might be a middle-aged court concubine or a noblewoman, and is wearing in formal occasions. At the same time, the chosen textile and the weaving techniques of this robe also express the social status and political identity of the wearer, in the way to strengthen the wearer’s power and social prestige.

Figurative Description:

This Qing dynasty court robe is made by silk with dark navy color, the color for a woman that is sophisticated and refined just like ocean. Vivid damask-weaved peonies blooming at the center of the robe, as if they are the queens of the flowers. Orchids and butterflies are dancing around the peonies and exude a scent of elegance with their delicate embroidery. Glimmering around the robe, there are auspicious clouds floating on the broader. Magpies are flying though the clouds singing beautiful melodies, orchids are interweaved with silver lurex emitting subtle fragrance. Blue and white color flowers spread more blossoms on the back of the tunic in an evenly pattern. More floral embroideries blooming on the collar and at the end of each sleeves within a creamy background of silk brocade. On this piece of ocean-color silk dress, every creature is rendered in the color of blue white. This clam and peaceful tone makes its owner a grandeur lady as the epitome of grace.

First Person Narrative:

I am a silk tunic born in Qing dynasty of ancient China. Dating back to the year I was born, twenty embroiderers in Suzhou spent nearly three month to make these flowers and butterflies on me alive. I am made by navy color silk, that means I am destined to be owned by a mid-aged noblewoman. The first encounter between my owner and I was at the time when she was hosting a house party, that was also the first time I got to see so many politicians and celebrities. My adrenalin was stimulated and the peonies on the heart of my body bloom more brightly as if they want to make my owner the most beautiful woman at the party. Ladies were jealous about those delicate embroiders of auspicious clouds weaved in silk and silver lurex on me, girls were whispering about those dancing orchids and flying butterflies on me. Men were attracted by my elegance, and my owner’s husband could not took his eyes off me. That was the most glorious time of my life, my decent beauty amazed every single person at their first sight. However, I did not have a second chance to experience that feeling again until recent years, when I was found in the wardrobe full of dust by an archaeologist. He brought me to an exhibition of textile and I was displayed as a piece of artwork representing the superb skill of weaving techniques in ancient China, and that was happened nearly a hundred years from the last time. Surrounded by praises, I feel those embroidered flowers and butterflies on my body come back to life again.