Are H&M and Zara lying to us?

I admit that there was a time when I actually fell for greenwashed claims – when I actually believed that companies like Zara and H&M were trying to be sustainable. However, my perception has shifted dramatically as I learn increasingly more about the fast fashion industry.

I recently saw an episode of the Patriot Act with Hasan Minhaj (that I highly recommend watching!) which focused on exploring how consumers are demanding increasingly more new clothes which to put it plainly, is killing our planet. As a comedian, Hasan puts a funny spin on the issue while still getting key messages across.

An unsustainable business model

H&M and Zara are two of the biggest fast fashion companies in the world. The episode discussed how companies like H&M and Zara operate on a “dynamic assortment” business model which Hasan defines as “selling new shit everyday”. This results in new products being released multiple times a week fueling consumers to shop more often and encourages quantity over quality. Interestingly enough, both H&M and Zara have their own “sustainability” lines, H&M Conscious and JoinLife. 

Greenwashing

Within their respective lines, the episode discusses how the companies are guilty of greenwashing. Both companies are using phrases like “sustainable”, “responsibly-made”, “green”, and “eco-friendly” – all of which have no legal definition. For example, Zara labels their faux leather items as made with the “most sustainably produced polyurethane” when in actuality, there is no sustainable polyurethane as it is made with oil. Both companies are also guilty of putting the phrase “made with recycled materials” product tags which deceives consumers into thinking that it applies to the item when the only thing made with recycled materials is the tag. 

Unfortunately, fast fashion companies are not going anywhere anytime soon. I personally don’t think the solution is to stop shopping for clothes, but rather reduce the amount we consume, make informed decisions, and take sustainability claims with a grain of salt. By educating ourselves about the companies we choose to support and the impacts of our purchasing decisions, hopefully we can pressure these companies to move away from their dynamic assortment business model.