[Around China] Yixing

A short 2.5 hour train ride lies Yixing which is a small (by China standards) city lying adjacent to bamboo forests, caves and factories. We were there for the first two offerings.

Arriving in Yixing we hopped on a tourist bus where we were the only foreigners – so stares were abundant and people were willing to talk and ask questions. At this time there was a light misting rain and the countryside was covered in fog (or what we hope was fog and not low lying smog.. although this is China, so both are valid options.) The bamboo forest was nothing short of magical and looked like something from an Asian horror movie/fairytale. Mist draping every tree and spindly bamboo trees popping out in between. We went a little off the trail and hiked up in to the forest, which while a slippery slope up was well worth while. Coming down we explored the area below which contained a lake, temples and pagodas. The lake was a dark algae green and to get from one side to the other we crossed a definitely not sketchy bridge that was on the surface of the water. So every time I took a step, water lapped over my shoes and and the wooden boards were covered. Afterwards we took a cable car to the top of a ‘mountain’ which on a non foggy day would have offered spectacular views but today the temple at the top was shrouded in fog.

After the bamboo forest we went to a cave which was more theatrical that we had imagined. We had imagined a small cave in a mountain but what we got was a large cave with lights hi lighting different points that looked more like a setting for a rave than an ancient cave. We took a gondala style boat through the river and the cave and arrived at the exist. Once through the cave we were treated to a gorgeous cascading waterfall bordered by a pagoda.

In the evening we headed back to the main city where we enjoyed hotpot with such fun things as eating brain, tripe, frog and noodles for good measure. Delicious.

Tips:

  • Go off the bath in bamboo forest
  • Stay overnight in Yixing, cool little city

Back in the Land of Smog Excess

Back in the Land of Smog Excess (aka the 中国)and it feels good. The last time I was in China was May 2015 – which might only be a year and a half but in China time that is at least 5 years. Shanghai is completely the same, yet completely different. The air smelled the same, the light haze over the buildings, the same mix of people rushing everywhere and older ladies dancing on street corners. The same fruit sellers, street cleaners and beggars.

But also different – new buildings had appeared. Old neighbourhoods knocked down, replaced with very American looking brick condos or malls.

But Shanghai is still here with its charm, adventure and I am so so happy to be back in this [second] home.

 

[Second] Home Coming Reflections

One of my global second homes is a small city nestled in the French alps called Grenoble. I spent a semester here in 2009 and had not been back since. Walking through the streets it was amazing how I was whisked back to 2009 – thinking “oh here is where we went shopping, I remember taking a picture beside that carousel, oh there I had an amazing kebab.” But in the 8 years a lot had changed as well – there were buildings where there had before been none, restaurants, closed, restaurants opened and a new diversity in the people walking the streets. Even though I just had a short two days here I realized that this gem in the alps, like all the places I have lived and been, will forever hold a special place in my heart.

 

 

Marauding about in Morocco

Morocco was absolutely incredible. Since we only had a short time we stayed in Marrakech which is one of the cultural points of Morocco.

The hostel we stayed at was in the centre of the medina. The medina is a large (incredibly large) open air market full of twists and turning selling everything from spices to leather to souvenirs to jewelry to knock off Louis Vuitton. In between the stalls there are restaurants serving both Moroccan and international food. We wandered through these twisting stalls, ignoring cries in Arabic, French and English offering to sell us ‘cheap goods at a good price for beautiful ladies’ and arrived to our hostel which was in the centre of this beautiful chaos.  After dropping bags off we wandered through the medina. Since my arabic level is somewhere between 0 and 0.1 (limited to thank you, how are you, I love you and baby – you know, the essentials) I was initially worried about being able to communicate. However, my worry was unnecessary most vendors spoke enough French (or even perfect French) – in all honesty I think I spoke more French in Morocco than I did in my first week living in France.

The next day we headed out on a three day tour of the Atlas Mountains and Sahara. It is possible to rent a car and go around yourself – however, I did not trust myself enough to drive in the chaos of Morocco (and plus on the tour got to meet some really cool people from Europe, Asia and North America.)

First up on the tour was the Atlas Mountains. They were rounded not jagged like the alps or rockies and in the distance I could even see snow capped peaks. Sitting on a patio at the edge of a cliff enjoying a Moroccan Style tea with fresh mint and sugar with mountains around me, an endless sky above and a winding river in the valley below was so peaceful and I could have stayed there for hours.

In the evening we stayed in a hotel down in the valley. Our group was hanging out on the roof, drinking tea with mint and admiring the endless array of stars above.

On the next day we stopped in a Bedouin village where they come down from the mountains every year to raise crops and animals and make some of the most gorgeous carpets I had ever seen.

Afterwards  we headed for the sahara desert and rode camels. I affectionately called my camel Leroy and for some unknown reason he was taller than the other camels (I swear this is true.. look at photo I’ll post here). So I am not sure if readers are familiar with riding a camel – but it is not sexy, not comfortable and not as gentle as riding a horse. First to get on the camel lays on ground, you sit on the back and then they lift back legs and then with a jolt lift the front legs. In addition – the ‘saddle’ on the back has no stirrups and since it was a one humped camel (or dromedary as correctly called) you are sitting on top of the hump holding on to the metal handle in front. On flat parts or uphill it’s possible to almost elegantly balance, but down hill or with that second jolt for the camel to stand (or first jolt to go back down) I was holding on for dear life. Incredibly cool experience, also terrifying. Although riding through the sahara going up and over sand dunes and sitting on the top of the sand dune watching thousands of colors mesh together in a sunrise I was able to forget some of my fear.

That night we camped in the desert. In the evening our guides made a bon fire and we sat around watching the stars as they drummed and sang songs. They asked me to join them in drumming and even though I insisted I had no rhythm (I don’t) they won me over. Some how ended up drumming with our Moroccan guides, singing Lady Gaga, Journey with the group all under the watchful eye of the sahara sand dunes and the open array of desert stars.

Next day early, early, early in the morning (like 5am early) we headed out into the desert, again on camel and rode back to town as the pink clouds of the sunrise appeared.

4 days in Morocco was not nearly enough. The beauty of the sahara, the chaos of the markets, and the kindness of the people drew me in and I know I will be back to explore more of what this unique country has to offer (and who knows I might give riding a camel another shot.)

 

Tips:

  • Do a tour (good priced and many included hostel in the city.)
  • Have backup bank cards. The currency is a closed currency so it’s hard to find outside of Morocco so bring multiple bank cards to get cash in case your first does not work
  • Don’t take it too seriously! In the market people yelling, squishing everywhere and pure chaos – but enjoy it!
  • Go!

 

Spam prevention powered by Akismet