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Boundaries

(May 22, 2011)

In the most recent semester leading up to our placement, we had many conversations about the ethics of development work. Specifically, we went through several situations that could arise, and even role played to gauge our understanding and critical thinking skills. Despite how much preparation we had, it was definitely not the same as the actual experience of being confronted with an ethical situation.

There are several kids on our compound who live with their families. I grew fond of this one little girl who was always eager to learn her alphabet and practice her spelling. Plus, she has an amazing sense of responsibility and always seemed honest. These couple days, I’ve noticed that some of the homestead kids had been asking for more and more things. They would come in and ask for snacks, becoming bolder and taking more each day. Today, the aforementioned girl, C, came up to me and explained, “I am starting school again tomorrow, and I don’t have a book or a pencil”. First thing that went through my head was the fact that books and pencils are essential things for a child to have, how can I refuse it?

Our team of three has been really in sync during our placement so far, and we usually are on the same page as things. What makes us work well together is the fact that we can talk to each other about almost everything, and we always have each other’s backs. When I was confronted by C for some school supplies, I gave her a temporary answer, ‘I don’t have any for you, but you can go to the library and ask Ivan the librarian’. It’s true, I didn’t have a book specifically for her. We didn’t bring anything specifically for anyone—we are here to help the community at a higher level than just simple, ineffective aid. I hoped that directing her to a local community center (library) would be the best bet for now. Plus, we worked at the library, and would be able to see how things progressed. Still unsure about what I answered her, I talked to Hannali behind closed doors when she came into the house, and we agreed that it was the proper thing to say to her. We also agreed to not think too much into it, that maybe C was just bringing it up sort of curiously, as if asking casually, ‘do you happen to have a book or pencil for me?’. So we left it at that.

We three girls joined in the living room to recollect our thoughts of the day, as we usually do, and so Hannali and I brought up the small incident. We started to go through our collective memories and came up with several instances where she would do extra chores for us, or be extra sweet, then ask for a treat like chocolate or candy. Then, Hannali brought up another issue regarding another of the older girls in our homestead, who had been expecting Hannali to pay for her transport all of last week. We were all really uncomfortable with these situations, because they were similar to our experiences in Mbale and Kampala, where people expected us to spend our money and share it simply because we’re muzungu and thus have money to waste. This was supposed to be home, where we could retreat from that treatment. Plus, these were kids that were asking us for things—kids with whom we’ve developed good relationships. We came to realize that we had to lock all the treats and goodies away in our rooms, and to keep our living space area as bare as possible so the children don’t expect special treatment from us. It’s tough having to take these small measures… we don’t want to think of them as manipulators, or children who are out to take advantage of us. They aren’t. But, the reality is that we do have more accessibility to the things that they need, and so they would naturally ask us for them. It’s unfair for them not to have the essentials, but it’s unfair for us to be put in these situations.

As we were discussing this, we heard calls outside in the dark, followed by shuffling. Then, the small opening in our door was opened (it can be opened from the outside). Naturally, we ask, ‘what is it?’, though we were less inviting than we usually were given our suspicions. The girl who led the children over was C, and she replied, ‘food’. Hannali went over to the opening to confirm, ‘you want chocolate? You want treats?’, to which they eagerly reply, ‘yes!’. Normally it’d be adorable, and we’d let them in within a heartbeat. But Hannali pressed on, ‘but it’s so late, you cannot have so many treats in a day!’, which prompted C to ask for what she was here for, ‘but mama (mama is a form of endearment, used especially when people want something from you), I start school tomorrow, no notebook or pen’. It was at that moment when we all breathed out a sign of relief that we were right, and that we didn’t suspect them for nothing. At the same time, we thought to ourselves, ‘now what?’.

It’s quite a sight to see the kids all crowded around the little peep hole of our padlocked door, telling us that they would like some candy and a pen and a notebook for their first day of school tomorrow. We should have drawn boundaries earlier, and could have been more wary of their intentions. Being in a new community, getting to know the children around the house, we wanted to give them the benefit of the doubt. We trusted that people wouldn’t take advantage of us, especially not children. It takes a lot of boldness, hunger, or desperation to ask more than three times. Even so, we had to tell them, ‘no, you cannot have these things from us’. We drew the boundaries right then and there. Treats are for rare occasions, not for them from us simply because we come from a ‘wealthier’ world.

Thoughts?

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Muzungu’s for sale, 5 million USD (Mbale)

There is no experience like riding in a taxi bus between rural villages. A taxi bus is a vehicle (looks slightly run down by Canadian standards) that is legally licensed to carry 14 passengers. Every day, taxi busses commute from one taxi park to another, usually situated in bigger cities. During rush hour, they manage to ‘fit’ (squish) at least 18 passengers; there were 22 people at the maximum fit in our taxi cab during our 3 hour ride back from Mbale to Busolwe. At each village, people have candles lit and have a night market theme going on, and passengers usually get on and off at those stops. In between the villages are extremely bumpy dirt roads (the same ones that I mentioned biking on), which put pot holes in Vancouver to shame. There are always many people walking along those roads, or biking on dilapidated bikes, and it’s horrifying to watch how taxi cabs swerve in and out between the pedestrians and bikers. There are no traffic rules that people follow—it’s terrifying. Plus, at each stop, we muzungus get the added experience of getting greetings from villagers (some are less pleasant than others). Or, people try to sell us snacks at double or triple the prices they sell to locals.

We got up at 5AM and left our homestead at daybreak in the back of Grandpa Hirome’s truck for Mbale. We had blankets in the back of the truck, and we must have looked really comfortable. As we sped away from our town, every person would do a double take at us: 1) owning a truck was a luxury in the town; and 2) blankets to cover us definitely marked us as privileged. Mr. Hirome (we call him Grandpa, and he spoils us like a grandpa does), drove us 90% of the way because he was attending a workshop in a nearby town. It was an amazing experience, sitting in the back of a truck, enjoying the morning stretch of sky. Into each town we turned into, all the men would stop and stare. It was really obvious and awkward. At one particular town, we had an audience of at least 30 or 40 men just stopped in their morning routine/work, staring at us and waving and offering the few compliments they knew in English. It was flattering, but little did we know the same compliments dished out in a different tone would stress us out for the rest of the day in Mbale..

Mbale is a city that is much smaller than Kampala, but dirtier and occupied by ruder men. We were in Mbale to buy supplies to supplement our projects in Busolwe, and by noon we had finished most of our errands. At the supermarket, the ‘security guy’ (just a man hired to hold a wooden stick) began to converse with our hostess Josephine (Josie). Later, Josie told us he asked ‘how much to buy one?’ referring to bride prices for each of us muzungus. This was only the beginning of a day full of innuendos, offers of marriage or purchase, and many disdainful and rude comments from women in the shops. We were so stressed out by the end of the day.

We did have a good lunch though, at a nearby resort. I was able to upload a third of my photos, and it was nice to just get away from all the rudeness and business of the city. Cities are much more disorganized, casual, and unprofessional here than back home. We don’t know the language, so we only hear the many ‘muzungu’s’ that are shouted along every single block we walk on. We are so appreciative of our hostess who is so honest with us. She is like a sister to us already. It helps because knowing that she could tell us up front what the men were saying allowed us to step back from the comments and know that they mean it in their own petty egotistical manners. Not knowing was difficult because one can always tell by the tone what kind of comment another makes… and it seemed more personal than when the insult was translated to us by a local whom we trust.

The ride home on the taxi bus was hectic, but there was something really reassuring about it… it felt like we really were being ‘locals’, living like the locals (though still relatively way well off) but we were making efforts to take transportation like they do daily, to eat as they do every day… etc. The bumpy road was a little nauseating, but also drove in the fact that we were going to be living here for the next three months… we are no longer visitors, even though we will still be perceived as the muzungus of the Busolwe village.

Tomorrow we are putting off our plans for work. We are going to sleep in, attend church with the family, and relax in the afternoon with the children. Maybe we will do our laundry and go for a bike ride, too.

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Wonderings (Weekend #1)

I wonder what it is that they stare at. Maybe it’s my clothes, which are clean of dirt and free of rips and holes. Perhaps it’s my light skin, suggesting an idyllic life wherever I’m from. Or maybe they are trying to gauge my attitude, to see if I smile at them, or wave, or acknowledge them in turn. Their stares are foreign to me; they stare because I’m foreign. My good friend B put it in perspective for me, challenging me to consider staring as a form of acknowledgement. It’s true that we in our Western culture tend to spend more time avoiding eye contact with strangers. We only open up to those we trust to be friendly. We only acknowledge when someone else acknowledges us, especially if they are strangers to us. Here, everyone stares. We are the attraction of the town—after a week here, villagers are still trying to figure us out. What are they doing? Who are they? Why are they here? At least they acknowledge our existence. Perhaps it’s an invitation for us to get to know them.

Why can she not ride the bike? Why do they wear pants, and not long skirts? Where did they get the money to pay for their glasses? For their nice backpacks? Why do they write in their journals so much? What do they do in all their spare time? The children must wonder, What are they saying to us? How can I learn to read like them? Will they like me? Do they know who I am? Will they remember my name? Their names are so foreign. Can I trust them?

In my head, I wonder constantly, Why are they staring? What do they see? Do they trust me? Should they trust me? How can I help? Do they need help? What does ‘help’ imply? What’s that word in Lunyole? I wish I could speak their local language so I can gather the children around and spend hours reading with them.

This week has been all about forming impressions. In any foreign place, I think we all make judgements on first instinct. At least I know that these impressions should not shape how I live and get to know the locals in the next three months. I know that these impressions are just natural instincts to help me sense what is normal and what is unacceptable in this town. The feelings of discomfort have helped me better understand, or put into perspective, what differences lie in theirs and our cultures. I think our projects will be designed to bridge that difference, to find a middle ground where we can share our experience and understanding to aid our self development as well as to guide their library mission goals.

To see someone foreign in such a tight little community must also be frightening for some villagers. Especially the children—one little baby boy always bursts into tears when he see us. The other children point at him and explain, ‘ohutia muzungu’, he is scared of you foreigners. Why? I think it is just because we look different. We must look like Martians to him.

One week has passed, it’s strange to think. In Vancouver one little week must seem like nothing. Here, it’s felt like a long month. And in reality, we have come quite a far way from our first landings in Entebbe airport. We’ve more or less formed our comfort zones, drawn our boundaries in the house and at work, and become more comfortable with our town. Tomorrow is the weekend, and we are heading to a bigger town, Mbale, where we hope to see more muzungus and share conversations with them. On Sunday we are painting the little kindergarten room that we are starting for the week after. Starting Monday we will visit schools and begin to implement the programs which we have drafted for the winter term here in Butaleja district.

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