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Wonderings (Weekend #1)

I wonder what it is that they stare at. Maybe it’s my clothes, which are clean of dirt and free of rips and holes. Perhaps it’s my light skin, suggesting an idyllic life wherever I’m from. Or maybe they are trying to gauge my attitude, to see if I smile at them, or wave, or acknowledge them in turn. Their stares are foreign to me; they stare because I’m foreign. My good friend B put it in perspective for me, challenging me to consider staring as a form of acknowledgement. It’s true that we in our Western culture tend to spend more time avoiding eye contact with strangers. We only open up to those we trust to be friendly. We only acknowledge when someone else acknowledges us, especially if they are strangers to us. Here, everyone stares. We are the attraction of the town—after a week here, villagers are still trying to figure us out. What are they doing? Who are they? Why are they here? At least they acknowledge our existence. Perhaps it’s an invitation for us to get to know them.

Why can she not ride the bike? Why do they wear pants, and not long skirts? Where did they get the money to pay for their glasses? For their nice backpacks? Why do they write in their journals so much? What do they do in all their spare time? The children must wonder, What are they saying to us? How can I learn to read like them? Will they like me? Do they know who I am? Will they remember my name? Their names are so foreign. Can I trust them?

In my head, I wonder constantly, Why are they staring? What do they see? Do they trust me? Should they trust me? How can I help? Do they need help? What does ‘help’ imply? What’s that word in Lunyole? I wish I could speak their local language so I can gather the children around and spend hours reading with them.

This week has been all about forming impressions. In any foreign place, I think we all make judgements on first instinct. At least I know that these impressions should not shape how I live and get to know the locals in the next three months. I know that these impressions are just natural instincts to help me sense what is normal and what is unacceptable in this town. The feelings of discomfort have helped me better understand, or put into perspective, what differences lie in theirs and our cultures. I think our projects will be designed to bridge that difference, to find a middle ground where we can share our experience and understanding to aid our self development as well as to guide their library mission goals.

To see someone foreign in such a tight little community must also be frightening for some villagers. Especially the children—one little baby boy always bursts into tears when he see us. The other children point at him and explain, ‘ohutia muzungu’, he is scared of you foreigners. Why? I think it is just because we look different. We must look like Martians to him.

One week has passed, it’s strange to think. In Vancouver one little week must seem like nothing. Here, it’s felt like a long month. And in reality, we have come quite a far way from our first landings in Entebbe airport. We’ve more or less formed our comfort zones, drawn our boundaries in the house and at work, and become more comfortable with our town. Tomorrow is the weekend, and we are heading to a bigger town, Mbale, where we hope to see more muzungus and share conversations with them. On Sunday we are painting the little kindergarten room that we are starting for the week after. Starting Monday we will visit schools and begin to implement the programs which we have drafted for the winter term here in Butaleja district.

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Thinking of home.

At the end of the day I am exhausted. It’s tiring to be stared at all day. It’s tiring not being able to communicate in the same language with the people around us. It’s tiring knowing that a long bike ride awaits before home. This exhaustion has allowed to appreciate all the simple pleasures that exist in my Vancouver life.

The bike ride home is a long stretch of orange dirt road connecting the Busolwe town center to Mugulu. The bike I have is missing brakes on one hand, and the seat is half stripped of the cushion that was once there. Whenever trucks or motorbikes bass by, we must turn town into the ditch on the side of the road, which always throws me off. Literally. People stare. It’s always the same hill every ride to and from work that I have trouble with. I tell myself that people do this daily, that they don’t have pillows and a warm bed to go home to. That they don’t get to leave in three months’ time. That they work so much harder for so much less. That my frustration and complaining is petty. But in those moments of frustration, exhaustion, and embarrassment, I just want to be back home again, in Vancouver. I promise I will be so much more grateful for the essential things which we take for granted in North America.

The evening is cool. I am typing away on a bench outside our little house, watching the other families on the homestead work away to prepare dinner. I’m watching a beautifully blue bird fly with such excitement onto a tree to join his friends… while this is going on, the mother hen is feeding, with her seven little chicks trailing her. The rooster struts around majestically, while insects circle humans and animals with such curiosity. The geckos will be out to feed on these insects soon, and we shall see him as we do every night, on the walls in the room where we take our dinner conversation.

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