Wondrous Cappadocia

This weekend, I journeyed to Cappadocia (Kapadokya), a vast historical region in central Turkey. Neither pictures nor history books could have prepared me for the overwhelming wonders to be found here. The ancient civilizations that once inhabited this rocky landscape left indelible marks, from fairytale cave dwellings carved into rocks stretching 130 feet into the air, to vast underground cities dug into the soft stone. Frankly, the only thing to do when you are presented with this amount of magnificence is to waffle around with your camera for a good long while and hope your pictures manage to capture the beauty in front of you.

10308177_10205212532255989_2641295576382305770_nI traveled through Cappadocia with a tour group of about 50 exchange students from various Istanbul universities. Our schedule was quite grueling, as we had many stops to make, and not nearly enough time to spend in any of them. On the first day, we took in Lake Tuz, (Salt Lake) the 2nd largest lake in Turkey. It was kind of anticlimactic, as there was no water, only an endless view of salty ground. We didn’t spend much time there. We went on to make stops at various view points, the Goreme Open Air Museum, and a traditional pottery workshop.

1455017_10205212588537396_7252582067187618344_n

The second day passed in much the same manner. We climbed Uchisar Castle, the most prominent land formation in Cappadocia. We hiked through a picturesque valley and ate Pottery kebap, meat cooked in a clay pot. This is perhaps a good time to mention how tremendously well I ate over the course of this trip. (Too well. My pants don’t fit anymore. Ah!) Everywhere we went an endless stream of delicious food greeted us. At one restaurant, there was a dessert buffet that literally stretched over two tables.

The highlight of my time in Cappadocia was viewing the landscape from above on a hot air balloon ride. We took off at sunset, gently floating past the chimney shaped rocks, rising gradually to a height of 1,000 meters. In this moment, looking down at the earth from such a great height, history’s remnants taking shape before my eyes, I felt inexplicably alive. I can’t quite explain in words what I mean, much like a picture’s image can’t capture a scene in it’s entirety. Viewing this place, where so many lives were lived and lost, I felt very aware of my humanity. I then proceeded to take multiple selfies.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURESSAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES       SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURESThe last day of the trip passed in a blur of getting off and on the bus, seeing more impressive sights (Derinkuyu Underground City among them), and hearing our guide tell us to hurryFinally, we got on the bus for the last time, ready to make the nine hour journey back to Istanbul. Back to reality.

1016571_745674485502092_6645301405482024292_n

Chilling in Caves

Ben öğrenciyim

My time here in Turkey is owed to a silver lining of practicality –academics. After five months spent outside of classrooms, it has been a bit of an adjustment to step back into the routine of university life. While I only have four classes, which take place on Mondays and Wednesdays, this is already proving to be my most educational term of university thus far.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Koc campus, site of so much learning!

The Classes

Basic Turkish 201

I think it would be a bit sad to spend four months living in a country and not attempt to pick up a bit of it’s language. Hence, I am taking this class. So far, we have learnt some simple phrases (hello = merhaba, good bye = güle güle, etc.), how to state our name, age, and where we come from, as well as numbers and a variety of basic objects. It is a difficult language to learn, as it is vastly different from English. The trick I think is to just try and speak it, even if you aren’t completely confident in your grammar or pronunciation. It is better to try and fail, than to not try at all.

Science 107: Energy and the Environment

Simply put, I am enrolled in this introductory level science course because I need three more credits of any science in order to graduate from university. There isn’t much to report so far, other than that scientists agree on global warming being caused by humans and CO2 is pretty much the devil. I think I dozed off during the last lecture.

German III: Intermediate

I have been trying to grasp German for about two years now. I have taken two university classes, and figure it’s best to continue learning it if I want to fulfill the language requirement of my degree. Plus, it’s interesting learning German with Turkish students and hearing them attempt the strong accent. The classes here are quite small, averaging at around 18 students, so you really get to know your fellow classmates and their quirks. There was one guy who left early yesterday because he was too hung-over to continue. I had a hard time figuring this out though, as he insisted on relating this information in garbled German. It was quite the dramatic exit. Prost!

English 335: Narrating the Middle East

I feel at home in an English class. Analyzing, interpreting, reading between the lines, it all brings me great joy. According to the syllabus, we will be studying authors from Egypt, Israel/Palestine, Iran, and Turkey. Discussions so far have been interesting, centering around readership in the Middle East (primarily the educated, higher-income classes), how fiction is capable of articulating a historical narrative, and the points of view of women authors in the Middle East. I spend a solid chunk of every lecture feeling uninformed about Middle Eastern history and politics, but this is motivating to me. It means I’m learning.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

An array of Turkish books

Here’s hoping all of these credits transfer back to UBC. Whatever the case, there has been much learning transpiring outside of academia’s constructs. Being able to walk into a Turkish bookstore and browse the selection firsthand, or asking a shop owner in the Grand Bazaar how much something is in stumbling Turkish, these are truly educational experiences that can’t be gained from sitting inside a classroom.

Tasting Turkey

There is an abundance of exotic and delicious food in Turkey. I suppose this isn’t surprising, due to the country’s rich history of cultural interactions and chefs that devoted themselves to creating cuisine that would please the sultans of the Ottoman Empire. I seriously can’t walk down the street without my mouth watering profusely, the smell of 1,300 years of culinary traditions wafting over me. Here are some of the better food experiences I have had thus far in Istanbul.

A Turkish Breakfast

My university arranged a traditional Turkish brunch as part of their orientation week for incoming exchange students. It took place on a sunny morning, at a restaurant perched over the Black Sea. Tables covered with platters of freshly sliced cucumbers, tomatoes, bread, various cheeses and olives, as well as eggplant and red pepper dip, awaited us and our growling stomachs. As the meal progressed, we were brought portions of baked eggs with sausage (sucuklu yumurta), as well as yumurtali ekmek, fried bread that resembles French toast. Along with the food came the traditional steaming hot Cay (tea). Everything was delicious, which soon became a problem, as we kept being brought more and more food. I suppose one can have worse problems in life.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Our spread

Delightful Drinks

I recently spent an afternoon wandering around Sultanahmet, the old core of Istanbul, eating nothing, drinking everything. The first classic Turkish beverage I sampled was freshly squeezed pomegranate juice. It was refreshing, wonderfully tart, and cheap, at 2 Lira (about $1 USD). There are street vendors on nearly every corner selling this along with orange juice.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

A crate of pomegranates

Finishing this, I moved on to have my first Turkish coffee at Sark Kahvesi, a popular spot for both locals and tourists. From first sip, I was hooked to the strange, thick and foamy liquid. Going back to the 16th century, Turkish coffee, or Turk Kahvesi, is made by boiling finely ground coffee beans in a pot and then serving it in a cup, along with the grounds. It is generally served with sugar, but never milk.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Notice the Turkish Delight

A Meaty Dinner

In Turkey, dinner tends to be a large meal, eaten fairly late, around 8 or 9pm. Many of the popular dishes are meat-heavy, such as döner, Sis, and Kofte. Iskender Kebap, prepared from thinly sliced, grilled lamb, is no exception.The meat, basted with tomato sauce, is served over slices of pita bread with yogurt either on top or the side. It can be a little pricier than other meals on the menu, but it is filling and a definitively Turkish experience.

Iskender_kebap

Traditional Iskender Kebap

Koç Üniversitesi Hoşgeldiniz

From our first meeting, I was blinded by Koc University. This might have had something to do with the fact that I had forgotten my trusty sunglasses at home. But I think it had more to do with the beauty that lay before me. In the sunlight, the exterior of Koc’s buildings are the same color as what I imagine the clouds in heaven to be.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Yes, this is my school

Located in the hills of the Sariyer district of Istanbul, the campus offers stunning views of the surrounding green landscape and Black Sea. With about 5,500 students, there is a much more relaxed atmosphere than at UBC (about 40,000 undergraduates). Being here, with the sea breeze kissing my cheek, I am able to find an inner calm, an escape from the bustling crowds of the city center, 45 minutes away. Right now, Koc (pronounced like koach) feels more like a spa resort than a university, but then again, classes have yet to start.

images

Map of Koc University

Established in 1993, Koc University is a leader in Turkish higher education. It is a private, liberal arts university, created and funded by the Vehbi Koc family (one of the richest families in Turkey). Being here, on a campus with a swimming pool that could be in the glossy pages of Vogue magazine and a parking lot full of luxury automobiles, the portraits of poverty I witnessed in other parts of this city seem far away.

It makes me think about how some people have so much, and others so little. How some people are able to spend their lives flying in private jets, while others spend their days begging for money on a street corner. I don’t really like to think about this, because it makes me feel hopeless. But it’s something we all have to think about. We all have to be aware of our privilege, even in the moments when we feel like nothing is going our way and the world is against us. Especially in these moments.

I believe I will happy here at Koc. I am ready to see what adventures the next four months have in store for me.

How to Tourist in Istanbul

  1. Drink lots of water. From bottles, not faucets.
  2. Wear good walking shoes. The city is pretty much a cobble-stoned mountain.
  3. Brush up on some key Turkish phrases. Merhaba means hello. Tesukkur ederim means thank you. Pislik means asshole.
  4. Get to know Rick Steves on a personal level. His videos on the major tourist attractions, like the Hagia Sophia and Topkapi Palace are short, informative, and interesting. It’s good to have some historical context when you are taking in these grand sites.
  5. You can wear whatever you want in Turkey. But, if you’re a woman and don’t want to be stared at, you should dress accordingly. Go for conservative pieces that will allow you to stay cool, like loose, linen fabrics. Pants like these are also quite nice to have in your wardrobe arsenal.
  6. Bring a camera. Duh X1000.
  7. If you’re going to carry a lot of cash on you, be smart about it. Purchase a money-belt or necklace to keep important items safe. They look kind of dorky, but whatever, at least you will be safe from potential pickpockets.
  8. Be open. Say yes to the opportunities that will allow you to try new things, the ones that will challenge you. Soak in the sunshine and calories, and perhaps some culture in between.
10624562_730883246981216_5146135603922515354_n

Me + Istanbul

Hostel Review: #bunk Istanbul

#bunk Istanbul knows it’s good looking. It knows guests will want to tweet pictures of the clean and modern dorm rooms, Instragram selfies in the mirrored elevator, and blog about hanging out on it’s rooftop bar + eatery. The hash tag has never been used more appropriately. SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

It is well aware of its great location (five minutes walk from lively Taksim Square and Metro station) and it’s prices reflect this knowledge. #bunk, at around $30 USD a night, is a little pricier than the majority of Istanbul hostels. You do get what you pay for, however. The rooms are clean, air-conditioned, and have personal charging outlets next to every bed.The rooms are so nice you almost forget you are staying in a hostel. That is, until the person sleeping on the bunk below you starts snoring like a foghorn. Ear plugs are a must if you are staying in a room with 4 or 6 people.

tak3

I did have some problems arise with the coded lockbox used for storing personal belongings. Guests are supposed to program a four-digit code into the keypad, which sounds simple enough, but somehow, my code stopped working two times. This happened to two other people in my room, both on multiple occasions. Thankfully, there are friendly people at #bunk’s front desk 24 hours a day, who are able to quickly reprogram the glitchy lockboxes.

Overall, #bunk was the perfect place to return to after long days spent lugging myself through the Istanbul humidity. There were clean showers, air-conditioning, and cold beer always waiting on the rooftop. My stay here was one to blog about. #haha

bunk-taksim

View from roof

 

Arriving in Istanbul

I entered Istanbul, Turkey in the night. It was dark and impossibly humid. To be honest, the first thing I noticed was the intense back sweat action I had going on. Canada had not prepared me for weather such as this. I took the Havatas shuttle from Ataturk airport to Taksim Square, the busy heart of Istanbul’s modern district. The shuttle ride was quite cheap, at 10 Lira (5 USD).

dsc_1231

Taksim by night

Getting off the shuttle is when the trouble started. I had written down my hostel’s address and looked on Google maps, but neither of those had prepared me for the disorientation I would feel standing in Taksim Square, echoes of this vast city reverberating all around me. So, I walked down the wrong street, my million pounds of luggage in tow, sweating like a madman. Eventually, I realized I had no idea where I was. I panicked a little and then hailed a taxi. I then panicked some more when I realized none of the taxi drivers swarming around me spoke English. I pointed at the address in my purple notebook, praying one of them would nod affirmatively or something. This didn’t happen. Instead, a woman walked up to me and asked if I needed help. Of course I did. She then proceeded to talk to the taxi drivers in Turkish about where I needed to go and arranged for me to pay an acceptable fare. In short, this woman, Cigdem, was amazing.

Rolling up to the hostel 10 minutes later, I felt comforted by the kindness shown to me by a stranger. Perhaps I am not so alone here, in this moment, in this foreign city.

 

Partying Cheaply on the Reeperbahn

There is always a party to join in Hamburg’s infamous Reeperbahn district. Partying at these 3 cheap spots will ensure that your wallet can dance along for the night too.

1. 99 Cent Bar

Everything in this admittedly trashy bar is one Euro. No joke. Shots, beer, soda, you name it. And they sell Astra, good German beer. The decor is terrible (think wall mirrors and aged disco balls) and there are definitely some odd folk frequenting the premises, but you can’t beat the prices.

125383

2. Villa KunterBunt

This is one of the cheapest dive bars on Hamburger Berg, a street ideal for pub hopping and nocturnal living. Shots here are only 50 cents! A good one to try is the Mexikaner, a spicy shot with tomato juice that was supposedly created in Hamburg.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

3. Sommersalon

Walking in to this bar, I felt as if I had been transported to an island paradise, surrounded by happy people swaying along to reggae-infused beats. While the drinks here are a little bit more expensive than at Villa KunterBunt, there is no entrance fee and the atmosphere is wonderful.

10007452_729991270403747_8306485612861804235_n

Inside Sommersalon’s toiletten

Nutella and Sauerkraut in Hamburg, Germany

This past week in Hamburg, Germany has been equal parts Nutella and sauerkraut. My first night here, in Germany’s second largest city, I received painful news from home that gave me pause. When you are traveling, moving at 100 miles per hour, it is easy to forget about missing home and the people you love. But when you stop, and allow yourself to look around, that is when you are susceptible to the pangs of homesickness.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Hamburg Harbor in the sun

Most exchange students experience homesickness in some form, be it at the beginning, middle, or end of their time studying abroad. It isn’t easy being so far away from everything you know, distant from your own particular brand of familiar. I think the only way to combat the suffocating arms of homesickness is to stay busy with activity. Whether it’s strolling through the infamous Reeperbahn, driving 175 km per hour down a German Autobahn, or even seeing old churches (St. Nikolai Kirche is a good one), staying busy tempers the sting of missing home.

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES

Elbe River + Rocks

I suppose it also helps that Hamburg is my ancestral home and all. I can walk along the harbor (the 3rd busiest in Europe) and imagine my relative, the Wichmann pirate, terrorizing these waters in the 15th century. I can rest my feet in the Elbe River and be comforted knowing my grandmother, my Oma, did the exact same thing as a little girl. Here, amongst the people of Hamburg (Hamburgers?) I am perhaps able to feel a semblance of home.

3 Must-See Museums in Amsterdam

1. Anne Frank House

The story of Anne Frank, a young girl who journaled her way through two years spent hiding from the Nazis, is a powerful one. After Hitler gained control of The Netherlands in 1940, Amsterdam was no longer safe for Jewish families like the Franks. Anne’s father, Otto Frank, arranged for them to go into hiding in the house behind his former office. Otto’s employees, who were Dutch, risked their lives to keep the Frank family safely concealed there for two years. An anonymous tip led to the discovery of the family by the Nazi’s in 1944, and they were subsequently sent to concentration camps where all but Otto Frank died. Anne died just a few weeks before the end of the war.

The experience of walking through this house, the one where Anne kept a diary that changed the world, is one that resonates with anyone who has ever felt the sting of prejudice. The rooms are left empty at Otto Frank’s choosing to remind visitors of the void left behind by the Holocaust. Seeing Anne’s hopes and dreams written out in her red checkered diary reminds us all to live while we have the chance. The line to get into this museum is incredibly long, so it’s best to get there at least a half-hour before the 9am opening time.

anne-frank-diary-open

2. Rijksmuseum

Located beside the ubiquitous “I Amsterdam” sign, the Rijksmuseum is the official museum of The Netherlands, dedicated to showcasing the country’s rich art and history. It is home to countless Dutch masterpieces, including Rembrandt’s Nightwatch and Vermeer’s The Milkmaid and The Little Street. With 8,000 pieces in over a hundred rooms, there is so much to look at in this museum. Even the ceilings are works of art. The one painting that I couldn’t take my eyes off of was entitled Still Life with Asparagus by Adriaen Coorte. You don’t have to particularly like vegetables to appreciate the haunting simplicity of this oil painting. Also worth checking out are the grand dollhouses and Delft pottery room. Just make sure not to linger too long, the Rijksmuseum closes fairly early at 5pm.

10615417_724934660909408_7433281974019589268_n

3. Vincent Van Gogh Museum

I was hesitant to pay the €15 entrance fee for the Vincent Van Gogh museum. First of all, Starry Night isn’t inside. And, more importantly, I could buy three and half beers with that amount of money. But, in the end I caved because the story of Vincent Van Gogh, the crazy artist who cut part of his ear off, has always intrigued me.

The 200 paintings displayed in the Van Gogh Museum are a visual representation of his life, depicting his descent into madness. The first room houses his formative pieces, the ones from his early days at art school. Peasants and laborers are the subjects of many of these paintings, as Van Gogh was fascinated with manual workers. One of his most famous from this time is The Potato Eaters.

An interesting feature of the museum was the interactive display they had describing how the color in Van Gogh’s paintings has faded with time. What we see as blue pigment today actually was purple at the time Van Gogh painted it. This is exemplified in the painting The Bedroom.

Going on through the museum, you see Van Gogh grow stylistically with famous paintings of flowers like Vase with Fifteen Sunflowers and Almond Blossom. Upon reaching the 4th and final floor, you get to a room that has a timeline laid out on the wall describing Vincent’s final years. No one knows what condition he suffered from, but he had terrible, violent fits of rage that he himself feared. Due to these episodes, he voluntarily committed himself to an asylum, where he painted the surreal Tree Roots, believed by some to be his last work. Shortly afterwards, Van Gogh shot himself in the chest during one of his episodes and died two days later from the wounds.

I am glad that I spent the €15 to see his beautiful paintings. There is something so intriguing about a man who in life sold only one painting, but in death has museums dedicated to him, his works worth millions.

150px-Van_Gogh_-_Selbstbildnis_mit_grauem_Filzhut