The last 4 days in Lima have been an introduction to the modern city of “Lima” and exposure to the evidence of cultures of previous versions of “Lima”. Today I visited Huaca Pucllana which was a temple pyramid dedicated to Lima goddess of the ocean. The Lima occupied this area and constructed this temple complex some 1500 years ago. They would then be conquered by the Wari, the Inca, and of course the Inca would fall to the Spanish in the 1500s. The guide took us around to the different archaeological sites under investigation and gave the group some basic background on the materials, processes, and cultural significance of the site. A good half of our tour group seemed to be only really concerned with getting a great picture of themselves at various different points, and were paying very little attention to the explanation of what they wanted their selfie with. The guide explained to us who were listening that the Lima believed that the ocean was controlled by a goddess and that each night the sea gobbles up the sun. For this reason, the temple venerated a female figure. The contrast of the divine feminine stood out to me as a large man, once again, pushed directly in front of me to take a photo of himself with the adobe bricks. The view from the top was well grey. I imagine on a clear day, the vista out to the ocean and the Andean foothills at your back would’ve felt quite magical and given inspiration to keep building a temple complex year and year again.
Duality is a theme that keeps coming up in Peru. We observed it at Museo Larco in the art and stories of the Moche and Chimu. Highlighted there was the dark/light, dry/wet, day/night, male/female to name a few. Each civilization represented and perhaps perceived these dualities in their own way but the motif repeated over and over, through time and even with social upheaval. Duality is undeniable.
Directly after visiting Huaca Pucllana, I walked into Miraflores and along the malecón. The sea stretched out to my right and on my left raced by cars, buses, combis and the like. Peruvians and their families played in the park while tourists took photos of the same view we all have a photo of. People were there living their normal life, doing the things they feel make the day worth living and although I wasn’t strolling through a modern cathedral, I think people were there participating in the rituals they believe make the next day worth seeing. I wondered to myself, isn’t coming from half a world away to sit and watch the sunset at the Mirador with your lover kinda a pilgrimage in its own right. When the modern day “gods” are the perfect instagram moment, is taking a photo of your partner at every corner an offering in and of itself?
It’s easy for us now to look back on the ancient civilizations and scoff at the lack of understanding or their “pagan” beliefs. But I can’t think of anything more in tune with the real human experience than believing that the ocean is a women and she does indeed swallow up the sun whole every night. And isn’t it more fun to believe that anyway?
4 replies on “The ocean is a woman and it’s time we all accept it”
Hi Morgan! Thank you for sharing your experience about visiting the Huaca Pucllana. I walked past it today when I was returning to the hotel and was disappointed that I did not think about visiting today so I’m so glad you took advantage of the chance! I think it is a shame that some people are not as interested in the history behind these rich archeological sites, but everyone has their own agenda. Nevertheless, I would love to see your photos from your trip if you have any as I was only able to seethe site from the street level.
I did not get to go into the Huaca Pucllana, but I absolutely did get a picture standing in front of it, lol. I do wish, however, that I would have had more time to go around and explore and hear more about its story, so I am glad that you shared your experience. It is interesting to think that often when people are at a site like this, they are not interested in knowing more about its origins. They often live, in a way, outside the moment, spending all their time trying to find the perfect shot so they can create a moment that will only be viewed in the future rather than living in the moment and experiencing it fully in the time they are there. I guess I live a bit in both worlds. I try to experience the moment fully, but I also know that my memory can be a sieve, and I need a reminder to trigger my memory back to the moment. Also I love visiting these types of sights so please keep me in mind 🙂
Morgan you bring up something that I have also been sitting on when visiting some of these archeological sites. I often wonder when it is appropriate to photograph these spaces- especially when there is much historical and cultural significance to them. I’ve also noticed an influx of tourists that seem to be more focused on capturing instagram photos rather than taking the time to learn about the importance of these sites. I’m glad to hear how your visit Huaca Pucllana provided you a deeper connection to the ocean. I thought your feelings were very beautifully written.
“I wondered to myself, isn’t coming from half a world away to sit and watch the sunset at the Mirador with your lover kinda a pilgrimage in its own right.” For some reason you reminded me of Walter Benjamin’s essay on “The Work of Art in the Age of Mechanical Reproduction.” But now, as you yourself have pointed out, we see in these postmodern pilgrimages how we have gone from the secularization of the religious to the simulation of the aura…The neohippies are also there in that logic.