Categories
culture food Spain

Cocina de Mercado

Translated by Kimberly Roberts.

The following translations are part of a collection of recipes, reviews and blogs written by an avid Spanish cook, Sol Filman Delano on her blog titled Cocina de Mercado. As there are several recipes and reviews on the blog, I have only chosen a handful to translate for the purpose of this project, in an attempt to give the English reader a taste of this Spanish cook’s repertoire.

Source texts: “Calçotada”, “Risotto de Alcachofas”, “Tiramisú”, and “Casa Portuguesa”.

Calçots

Last Saturday we attended a calçotada in Corbera de Llobregat that a group of friends invited us to. (Calçotada is a typical gastronomical event in the Catalunya region of Spain, where sweet Spanish green onions known as calçots are consumed in large quantities). After the lamb chops, pork sausage, typical Basque chistorra sausage accompanied with red wine, we had 550 calçots for just the 30 of us. It was a huge feast!

Calçots are a variety of fresh white, sweet onions, native to the region of Catalunya. (They are originally from the province of Tarragona). They are in season at the end of the winter and the beginning of the spring (January-February-March).

The traditional way to cook them is directly over the fire (barbeque). When the tips are tender and the outside layer is completely black, you wrap them in newspaper so that they stay warm until you are ready to eat them. Traditionally, they are brought to the table on a piece of clay tile; you eat them with your hands by pulling away the burnt exterior, to reach the tender center.

Calçots are usually accompanied with a romesco sauce. Yesterday, the sauces used were both homemade and store-bought. Romesco sauce is a sauce prepared with almonds, hazelnuts, tomatoes, peppers, bread, olive oil, salt and vinegar. In Mai’s blog you can find an excellent recipe, click here.

¡Bon Profit!

Recipes: Artichoke Risotto

Risotto is my favourite Italian dish. The last time I prepared it was with a variety of ingredients. I always use arbario rice, which contains a fair amount of starch. You can, however use carnoroli rice, a northern Italian rice. This time I’m making an artichoke risotto…in this blog, you can also find the recipe of my version of shrimp risotto.

Ingredients (serves four)

1 cup arborio rice
2 tablespoons olive oil
2 tablespoons butter
1 yellow onion
6 artichokes
200 ml white wine
750 ml vegetable stock
grated parmesan cheese
black pepper
2 tablespoons truffle oil
Salt

Directions:

1. Prepare artichokes:
a. Rinse under cold water to remove dirt and pat dry. Chop top and tail off.
b. Remove outer layers and snip the top of the remaining leaves with kitchen scissors.
c. Place prepared artichokes in a large bowl of cold water and add a generous squeezing of 2 lemons.
2. Cook the artichokes. (Separate the hearts, cut and reserve. Remove the ‘meat’ of the leaves).
3. Lightly fry in butter, olive oil, and the finely chopped onions.
4. Add the rice. Cook until the rice is translucent.
5. Add the meat of the artichoke leafs.
6. Add a cup of white wine. Stir and let the alcohol evaporate.
7. Add a splash of the hot stock, stirring constantly until the rice absorbs it all. Add more stock and continue stirring. Continue this procedure, a little bit at a time, until the rice is creamy and has a sticky texture.
8. Add the chopped artichoke hearts, more stock and continue to stir.
9. Before serving, add two tablespoons of truffle oil and the freshly grated Parmesan cheese.

Recipes: Tiramisu

This delicious Italian dessert always wins me over…there are many different versions to prepare Tiramisu out there, but this is my favourite.

Ingredients (four servings)

1 cup mascarpone cheese
20 lady fingers (or similar cookies)
2 egg yolks
200 ml whipping cream (chilled)
2/3 cup sugar
2 cups freshly brewed coffee
Dark chocolate powder
Dark Chocolate (70%)
4 teaspoons of Marsala wine

Directions:

1. Whip the chilled whipping cream with a teaspoon of sugar until you get firm whipped cream.
2. Over a double boiler, beat the egg yolks with the sugar and the wine until you get a sabayón*; the mix should now be double its volume. Leave to chill.
3. Gently incorporate the mascarpone cheese into the sabayón. Add the whipped cream to the mix.
4. Make the coffee and leave to chill. Soak the cookies in the coffee.
5. Make a base layer of the cookies then grate the chocolate on top. Add a layer of the mascarpone cream and repeat. Finish with a layer of mascarpone cream. Wrap and refrigerate for 6 hours before serving.
6. For presentation, dust with chocolate powder.

Buon appetito!

*Sabayón, also known as Zabaglione or Zabaione, is a traditional Italian dessert. The basic ingredients are: egg yolks, sugar, and Marsala wine. To prepare, you beat them together over a warm water bath, until it becomes a light and creamy consistency.

Restaurant Review: Casa Portuguesa

In the heart of the neighborhood of Gracia (north of the center of Barcelona) you’ll find a café that is devoted to Portuguese gastronomy and culture.

My first few visits to this place were dedicated to the pastries known as pastéis de Belem, which are to die for! Every time I would walk by, I couldn’t resist eating a freshly baked one, sprinkled with cinnamon.

There are also queijadas (little cheese pastries), homemade cakes and cookies, almond pastries, little chicken empanadas, puffed pastry tarts with cheese, vegetarian tarts and more.

They also feature a wine cellar at the back of the café in which they sell a variety of ports, white wines, red wines and vinho verde, the fresh and light ‘green wine’ originating in the northern regions of Portugal.

This place is ideal to enjoy a bottle of wine, accompanied with a selection of fine cheeses. They play eclectic Portuguese and Latin music and no smoking is permitted inside, which is a lot harder to find than you’d think in Barcelona!

At Casa Portuguesa you can also find a large variety of artesian delicatessen products, such as marmalades, oils, preserves, sauces, patés, chutneys, honey, etc.

58 Verdi Street, Barcelona
t: 933683528

Hours of Operation:

Monday– closed
Tuesday – Wednesday: 5:00pm-11:00pm
Thursday – Friday: 5:00pm-11:30pm
Saturday and holidays: 11:00am-3:00pm, 5:00-11:00pm
Sunday: 11:00am – 3:00pm, 5:00pm – 9:00pm

Categories
culture food health Mexico

The Nopal: Tasty, Cheap, and Good for You

Translated by Edda Mata

I chose this article because as a Mexican I thought it was important for English speakers travelling to Mexico to understand the benefits of the nopal; an exotic vegetable, and dare them to try it on their next trip to Mexico. Unlike other consumer-oriented articles, this article’s main purpose is not so much to sell a particular branded product to the consumer, but to inform them of the health benefits of consuming a local produce.

Source text: “Nopal: sabroso, benéfico y barato”

The Nopal: Tasty, Cheap, and Good for You
Adriana Hernández Uresti

Its nutritional contributions, its qualities (true or invented) to prevent and/or control some diseases, the possibility of cooking it in different ways and even eating it raw, and its low cost (less than a peso per piece) are enough reasons for this vegetable to have earned a place on the dining table of Mexican families, who in average consume 6.36 kg per year.

The production of nopal has increased over the past decade; not only has its plantings increased, but also the states where it gets cultivated, assured Javier Montes de Oca, president of the Consejo del Nopal y Tuna (Nopal and Pickly Pear Fig Council of Mexico City). According to the farmers’ representative, a key factor in this trend is the organization of the Feria Nacional del Nopal (National Nopal Fair), where the consumption and cultivation of this thorny food is promoted.

Although it is cultivated in 23 states throughout the country, there are four states considered the main nopal producers: the Distrito Federal (303, 755 tones), Morelos (61,110), Estado de Mexico (14,464) and Aguascalientes (13,178). Out of 436, 222 tons farmed each year, 97% is consumed fresh and the other 3% is used as a primary product by food, pharmaceutics, and perfumery industries.

Its demand has also increased outside the country, and even though Mexico is the main exporter, the amount of nopal sold in other countries is still little, less than 1% of the national production. The United States is the main market followed by Japan and some European countries.

For Those With a Big Appetite:

The nopal provides a daring table companion of proteins, calcium, iron, vitamins A and B, and fibre (even though it’s a food with a high amount of humidity, its dietetic fibre content is greater than 20%). These properties can be altered depending on the way it is consumed; for example, cooking it provokes a small loss in all the nutrients, particularly in carbohydrates, potassium and vitamin C.

According to the nutritionist, Cecilia Sommer, it is advisable that people with problems such as high glucose (like diabetics) consume raw nopal, given that it controls sugar levels more effectively than in its cooked form. The specialist also warns about the risks of broiling as this cooking method may result in the nopal containing traces of this mineral such as phenolic compounds derivatives, which are harmful for the health. There are no restrictions in regards to consuming it like that, but one of the thumb rules of smart nutrition must not be: a varied and balanced diet.

In regard to dehydrated nopal (in pills or other varieties), nutritionist Sommer, commented that: “when a food is dehydrated, normally the loss of water causes the nutrients content to increase by net weight; another advantage is that it has a longer shelf life, and for many people the fact that it isn’t slimy is important, however, it is precisely in its sliminess where one is able to find a significant source of fibre. In addition, dehydrated nopal is much more expensive than the fresh one.

The Father of all Remedies

In addition to its proven benefits, there are other fictional benefits that can be added, specially those invented by charlatans, who offer this product as “the mother of all remedies,” even for diseases that up to date have no cure. For Cecilia Sommer, the biggest myth that exists about the nopal is related to diabetes; she admits that there are in fact studies that demonstrate that its consumption decreases the level of glucose in the blood, but up to date there is no evidence to consider it a cure, like many people believe.

Its high fibre content (soluble and insoluble) is the main cause of its medical benefits, as it prevents or delays the absorption of sugars. In the book El Poder Curativo del Nopal (The Healing Powers of the Nopal) by Guillermo Murrayhe mentions that it helps control the following disorders:

Obesity: The insoluble dietetic fibre absorbs water and accelerates the passing of food through the digestive tract, preventing or delaying the absorption of sugars, which provoke a sensation of satiety, through which the ingestion of food is decreased; likewise, it helps regulate the intestinal movement.

Gastrointestinal Problems: The fibre and the mucilage (the slime) control the production in excess of gastric acids and protect the gastrointestinal mucous. Also, they contribute to a good digestion, avoiding constipation problems. Cholesterol: The amino acids, the fibre and the niacin avoid that the excess of sugar in the blood turns into fat; on the other hand, they metabolize the fat and the fat acids, thus reducing the cholesterol levels.

Arteriosclerosis: The effect of the amino acids and fibre, including the antioxidants, vitamins C and A, prevent the possibilities of damage in the blood vessels’ walls, like the formation of fat platelets.

Colon Purity: Insoluble fibres help dilute the concentration of carcinogenic agents in the colon, which can help to a degree prevent the appearance of such disease.

There is no doubt that including the nopal in daily diet is very recommendable, due to its nutritional benefits as well as its medical benefits. Although it is worth mentioning that it is not a drug on its own, but an supplement to help control or prevent the problems already mentioned.

The Scientists raise their hands

The innovations in the production and procedure of the nopal are few; actually, the majority of the farmers use traditional sowing systems. Despite what has been mentioned, researchers of different centres work to improve its farming. Three examples are:

Increased resistance: Doctor Candelario Mondragón Jacobo, at the Instituto Nacional de Investigaciones Forestales Agrícolas y Precuarias (National Forest Research Institute of Agriculture and Livestock) works in genetic improvement of nopal in order to increase its protein content and make it more resistant to frost and pests; likewise he develops cactus figs of different colours from the traditional ones in order to make them more attractive. In the case of the forage nopal, he seeks to improve its nutritional content, to facilitate cattle its consumption.

Thorn Free: Engineers at the Instituto Politecnico Nacional (IPN) (National Polytechnic Institute) have designed a machine capable of cutting off 80% of the nopal’s thorns, at a velocity of four seconds per piece. This equipment could help accelerate the process of de-thorning, a task that has been qualified by farmers as slow, tiring and tedious. Engineers Guillermo Cruz Villa, Jacobo Moreno Cruz and Sigfrido Soria Farias, at the Unidad Profesional Interdisciplinaria de Ingeniería y Technologías Avanzadas (Professional Interdisciplinary Unit of Engineering and Advanced Technologies), work with farmers from Milpa Alta to develop a machine at an industrial level.

Strong Bones: The doctor Mario Enrique Rodriguez, at the Centro de Física Aplicada y Tecnología Avanzada (Department of Physics and High Technology) in the UNAM, is the head of the project “Nopal flour as a treatment to prevent osteoporosis.” It is still rather early to offer conclusions, but no one would be surprised that this product could add a new virtue to the ones we already know.

In detail

The nopal is endemic of America; there are 258 species, out of which 100 exist in Mexico, the main producer at a national level. Nopal is the name given to several species of the Oputina genre, of the cactus family. The Nopalea Cochenillifera is the species that we normally consume and the one referred to in this text.

Multiple Possibilities

Nopal mole, nopal pizza, nopales y cheese sauce, spaghetti with nopales or with cream, dirty beans with nopales, Jell-O, marmalade, ate, nopal cake, tamales with nopales and cattle brains, nopal cookies with cinnamon and a tuna salad, are only some of the 112 recipes that the Recetario del nopal de Milpa Alta, D.F. & Colima (number 48 of the collection Popular Indigenous cuisine of the General Cultures Directorate of CONACULTA). The recipes were collected among the people of the Distrito Federal, the majority producers of Milpa Alta. This culinary jewel can be found in Educal bookstores (www.librosyarte.com.mx) and in the National Museum of Popular Cultures.

Nutritional Facts

Every 100 grams of nopal contain: Energy: 27 kcal Proteins: 1.7g Fat: 0.3g Carbohydrates: 5.6g Calcium: 93 mg Iron: 1.6 mg Retinol (Vitamin A): 41 mcg Thiamin (Vitamin B1): 0.03 mg Riboflavin: (Vitamin B2): 0.06 mg Niacin: 0.3 mg Ascorbic Acid (Vitamin C): 8 mg Source: Instituto Nacional de Nutrición (National Nutrition Institute).

Tips for Nopal Lovers

Pick nopals with firm thorns (a sign of their of freshness) and without brown-orange stains (a symbol of oxidation). When eating them raw, asides from washing them it is indispensable to disinfect them. Boil them with little water, and avoid overcooking them as this decreases its nutrimental benefits. Use a copper pot to cook them if you want them to keep a lively green colour. If possible, buy and consume them the same day. If you want to store them, put them in a plastic bag inside the fridge; they will preserve well for three days. Grilled nopales tend to have some white spots after a couple of days of storage; these are due to the vegetable reactions and signs of decay. Source: Nutricionist Cecilia Sommer.

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Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 Canada
This work by Spanish 401, UBC, Professor Jon Beasley-Murray is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 2.5 Canada.