As I sat down to read about food, culture, and representation this week, I couldn’t help but think about my recent trip to Peru. I had the privilege of dining at Tanta, a renowned Peruvian restaurant in the heart of Lima, and it struck me how perfectly it exemplified the concepts we’ve explored in our readings.
The readings introduced the idea of taxonomy in food, which expanded on
categorizing ingredients and dishes. At Tanta, this concept came to life as I browsed through their menu. They proudly showcased Peru’s culinary diversity, featuring dishes with native ingredients like quinoa and amaranth, as well as international influences. It was like flipping through a culinary history book.
One of the fascinating things about Tanta is how it preserves Peruvian culinary traditions. The restaurant pays homage to classic dishes like ceviche and lomo saltado (picture of the meal I had attached below), demonstrating a commitment to retaining their cultural heritage. It was evident that in this restaurant the owners value their culinary history, just as our readings suggested.
In the realm of food, the term ‘authentic’ often sparks debates. As seen that authenticity can be compromised when influences creep into traditional dishes. Tanta navigates this discussion. While it offers traditional Peruvian fare, it also experiments with international flavors, catering to evolving tastes without losing its cultural identity.
Our readings touched on the idea of collective versus individual dining experiences. Peru has a rich tradition of communal dining, where sharing meals strengthens bonds. At Tanta, I witnessed families and friends coming together to enjoy their meals, emphasizing the importance of collective dining in the country’s culture.
Lastly, the name ‘Tanta’ itself holds cultural significance, as it means ‘bread’ in Quechua, an indigenous language. This linguistic choice reflects the restaurant’s dedication to promoting indigenous culture and traditions, aligning with our discussions on cultural values.
I’ve been to Tanta! I remember leaving satisfied and impressed. We were particularly enamoured by the bread course, which makes even more sense now that you shared that ‘tanta’ means ‘bread’ in Quechua. In another course that I teach (LAST303) that relates to Latin American Indigenous foodways, we analyze Gastón Acurio’s English-language cookbook, PERU, which is published with Phaidon. It’s got a beautiful fabric cover that seeks to pay homage to Quechua textiles, and there are both ancestral and fusion dishes inside. Acurio has been at the centre of debates about cultural appropriation due to his cooking style, prices, use of cultural materials in his cookbooks, etc., but his responses have been quite generative in my opinion. You might be interested in looking into similar discussions related to the course topic, such as debates about Enrique Olvera or Rick Bayliss in the Mesoamerican context (Mexico and its diaspora in these cases)!