Category Archives: India में

My life and learning on the great subcontinent.

Bombay, baby.

Posted on by under City Guides, India में, Travel Resources
Bombay is a captivating city. The streets around its crumbling grandiosity are crawling with crowds and crammed with traffic and the wet hot air carries the rich aromas of its twelve million lives. At the  Southern tip of the city, the Colaba and the Fort districts, are suffering the best of the colonial hangover. On every corner is yet another beautiful reminder of the long British occupation; there are countless grand buildings, wide boulevards and antiquated coffee houses. The area definitely warrant full day of exploration. I did a self guided walking tour based on the advice of my lovely host. Below are the sights I and (more importantly), cafés I visited.
I started my day at Kyani and Co., established in 1932, is a legendary Bombay institution. Iranian immigrants who moved to India in the 19th century opened many similar cafés in the city and Kyani and Co. is one of the oldest that remains. Sitting beneath its high ceilings in its rickety old chairs, its easy to imagine the café’s rich history. The place is famous for its bun maska (buttered bun), chai (tea) and keema pav (minced mutton served with soft white bread).
2) Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus
 The juxtaposition of India’s bustling wildness against the backdrop of this breathtaking European architecture makes the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (formerly Victoria Terminus) a site to behold. The train station is a  UNESCO World Heritage Site, in recognition of its amazing Victorian Gothic Revival architecture. As well as admiring it from afar, it’s worth getting caught up in the crowds to take a look at the place from the inside.
3) Crawford Market
There is nothing like a good market. This is one of the most famous in Bombay and well worth a wander. It’s overwhelmingly crowded with people, products and provisions. The piles of fragrant fresh fruit and bustling street food stands swarm with flies and with people. The sales tactics in Mumbai are much less pushy than you’ll find at markets in Northern India so, it’s not an unpleasant place to browse and people watch.
4) Mumbai Police Commissioner’s Office (Mumbai Crime Branch)
Right right across from Crawford Market, this building was (built in 1896), can be admired for its Gothic architecture
5) St. Xavier’s College
More than the college itself, I enjoyed walking down the street it’s on. The big trees keep it cool and the mood is intellectual. I didn’t go onto the campus but apparently the Heras Institute of Indian History and Culture is worth seeing. There is also a museum in the college premises and societies like the Bombay Local History Society and the Amateur Astronomers’ Association (Bombay) which are open to members of the public as well as students.
6) Municipal Corp. Greater Mumabi 
This is another gothic building to gawk at. It was designed by the same architect who designed the Chhatrapati Shivaji Terminus (F.W. Stevens).
7) Kitab Khana
This lovely little bookshop has a great selection of books of all sorts and in the back, you can crack the spines of your purchases over a coffee, sweet or meal. The café space is not nearly as nice as the bookstore part of the shop and it’s quite expensive so unless you’re famished or craving the AC, I’d recommend moving on to one of the other lovely cafés in the area for sustenance on your day out. There are some nice reading nooks in the shop itself as well, however, you’re not allowed to bring food and drink into those areas.
8) Mumbai GPO
The General Post Office building was built in  1913 in an Indo-Saracenic style. It is the largest post office in India with 101 counters to cater to customers.
9) JJ Fort Boy’s Highschool 
Inside the campus, you can see Dean’s Bungalow where Rudyard Kipling was born to John Lockwood Kipling (then principal of the School). There is a plaque commemorating the important birth.
10) Britannia & Company
I am disappointed that by the time I reached this point in my walking tour I was no longer hungry enough to eat at this iconic cafe. Britannia & Co. is another of the city’s Iranian cafés which are helping to preserve some of the city’s Zarathushti heritage and history. Most of the Irani cafés in Bombay are over 100 years old and are well preserved evidence of a bygone era. Most were established by Iranian families who settled in Bombay after fleeing religious persecution in their country. They were aided in their flight to the west coast of India by the Parsees of Bombay. Thus, the Parsee housing colonies in Bombay’s Fort district became home to many Irani Zarathushti refugees. Because most of these refugees didn’t have the capital to establish themselves in trade, banking and industry many established modest cafés and bakeries. The food and the egalitarian environment of these historical Iranian eateries still portray the values embodied by this culture.
If you are in the mood for more food at this point, the berry pulao and the raspberry drink come highly recommended. Berry pulao is an adaptation of the Iranian zereshk (barberries or Berberis vulgaris) polo (cooked rice). The rice dish is usually made with meat (chicken or mutton) and berries which have a slightly tart flavour.
11) Horniman Circle and Gardens
Benjamin Guy Horniman was an Irish journalist. He wrote for the Bombay Chronicle and was known for his vocal opposition to the British rule during India’s struggle for Independence. The gardens are a lovely spot to sit and escape into a little greenery. There is a great variety of plants and trees and a small fountain in the center. The benches are mostly occupied with business men taking a moment out in their days to munch on all sorts of delicious street food delicacies. The buildings around the garden form a semi circle crescent around the garden.
12) Asiatic Society Mumbai Town Hall
As you step out the Horseman Circle Gardens you’re confronted by this gorgeous white Greco Roman style building, boasting eight Doric columns and thirty stone steps leading up to the Library. Built in 1930, this is a lovely building is home to the Asiatic Society of Mumbai. I found myself here in the early evening and the light of the low hanging sun on the white columns was phenomenally gorgeous. The library here is home to the two original copies of Dante’s Divine Comedy, five caskets containing the relics of the Buddha found at Sopara near Mumbai and many rare and ancient manuscripts. When I visited, it was just after closing time but the kind guard let me step inside to at least catch a glimpse of the many low, dusty shelves in the crowded dim hall.
13) St. Thomas Cathedral
This is likely one of the oldest British buildings in Mumbai. Its construction was completed in 1718. The Churchgate railway station  got its name because of the presence of this cathedral which is located close to the Fort’s gate. It’s a quaint and modest little church, and contrasts with the grandiose buildings that surround it.
14) Khala Goda Cafe
Khala Goda is a very tiny, very hip little pocket. There are very nice (very expensive) boutiques and hipster shops tucked away in the crooked lanes behind the main thoroughfare. This café fits the bill being tiny and hip.
15) Flora Fountain
Flora is the Roman Goddess of beauty and prosperity. The fountain was built in 1869  using Portland stone. It was built in memory of Sir Bartle Frere, Governor of Bombay at the point where the Fort’s Church Gate once stood.
16) Bombay High Court
The building was built in 1878. The statues of Justice and Mercy can be seen on top of the two octagonal towers west of the central tower. Only the Judges are allowed to enter from the main entrance. All others enter through the rear entrance on the east of the building. Inside, the dusty, dark, overcrowded hallways are piled with rolls and rolls of files. In each room, the desks are overwhelmed with impressive piles of papers and file folders, the employees literally buried under their work. It’s incredible that anyone is able to navigate through the madness of those stacks.
17) Prince of Whales Museum
This is one of the main museums in Mumbai. It has a huge collection of variety of artefacts. There are old stone and marble sculptures from ancient temples, Assyrian Bas Reliefs, seals and toys from the Indus Valley Civilisation, European and Indian Miniature Paintings, a huge porcelain collection, Tibetan and Nepalese Buddhist art, etc. I spent a few hours wandering through he odd collection and wasn’t overly impressed. It’s worth a look from the outside but I would give this museum a miss.
18) David Sassoon Library
There’s not too much to see here beyond the pretty exterior of the building because the library is members only. Apparently there is garden behind it and has some very comfortable easy chairs on the verandah on the first floor however, I didn’t go inside.
I’ve attached a couple of maps that track my walking tour through this beautiful, historical pocket of Bombay. I combined the two routes to make my way around visiting each sight in the order they’re written above. Everything is quite close together in the neighbourhood so if you don’t mind a lack of efficiency, even wandering will take you past most of these buildings and sights.

The GMO Debate Hits Facebook

Posted on by under India में, Links

On Facebook today, somebody I went to high school with posted this article about GM Crops with the caption “An important perspective from a lifelong environmentalist putting the scientific consensus on GMOs in the context of that on climate change.” I intended to write just a quick response pointing out the holes in the author’s argument but, it turns out I have a lot to say about GMOs. Writing this response helped me flush out why exactly I think the use of genetically modified crops are problematic for our food system. Thanks Facebook (haha)!

My response:

This article provides an interesting perspective. I also consider myself an environmentalist and have thought a lot about the possibility for positive change with the help of GM crops. For me though, I always some back to the fact that GM seeds are developed and owned (which in itself is problematic) by large (evil) multinational corporations. For me there is eedo way around the fact that the corporate control of agriculture is bad for farmers, for consumers and for the environment. There are two major points that I think the author of this article fails to address in this piece:

First of all, it’s important to remember that the “necessity” for GM crops was created because of the global shift towards an industrial model of agriculture. The problems we’re seeing with pests, soil degradation and even water shortages are symptomatic of large scale, monocultural, corporately controlled agriculture. Before the Green Revolution smaller, diversified and largely organic cropping systems worked in tandem with nature and weren’t plagued by the same diseases, pest and water problems we see on modern industrial farms. GM crops are essentially large corporations’ answer to the problems they themselves have caused and – surprise, surprise – yet another opportunity to make money at the expense of marginalized farmers. While the brinjal seeds may be “free” for some lucky farmers in Bangladesh at this point, in the long run, shifting away from traditional seed saving can be extremely costly for farmers. Most GM seeds are non-renewable meaning the input costs for farmers rise significantly because new seeds must be purchased each year. Furthermore, if farmers stop saving their seeds and stop growing locally adapted, native and traditional crop species, we are likely to lose not only biological diversity in farming regions but also cultural diversity. It’s important to remember that farming is an ecological AND social system and even from an environmentalist’s perspective, we can’t forget that food and culture go hand in hand.

Secondly, I am no expert on Bt brinjal in particular, but I know that for most GM crops (Bt. cotton, corn) the genetic modification does not in fact reduce pesticide use. These crops are often “Roundup ready” and the sale of seeds goes hand in hand with the sale of the pesticides to which they are resistant. In India, when farmers switch to growing GM crops, Monsanto generously gives them the chemicals for free the first year. (Isn’t that nice?) In subsequent years however, farmers are crippled by the immense cost of paying for seeds and chemicals on which they have become dependent. Conveniently, both the chemicals and the seeds are produced by the same corporation (i.e. Monsanto). It’s a brilliant business plan! In India at least, farmers across the country are being plunged into great debt and in many regions, farmer suicides have become endemic. 

Definitely, if used properly, I think from an environmental perspective there is a possibility for GMOs to assist us in our fight to mitigate climate change and reduce the environmental impacts of agriculture. However, GMOs in their current state as the intellectual property of huge money hungry companies don’t. Also, despite this author’s claims there is actually much dissent in the scientific community as to their safety. And, let’s be honest; as a technology they are a fairly recent development so let’s be careful about heralding them as any sort of saviour just yet. I am also a student of science and agree that “science advocacy” is important. I do also think however that sometimes scientists fall victim to a reductionist thought process. I believe a more holistic approach to issues like GMOs is important to fostering a more sustainable future for food. We need to consider the context in which GMOs are being introduced into our farming systems and discuss their implications environmentally, socially and economically.

Things I love and love to hate.

Posted on by under India में

IMG_2998

Like a friendship or a romance, my relationship with India is a complicated one. Every day she takes me on a roller coaster ride of thrilling, ecstatic, beautiful highs and frustrated, hot and dirty lows. There’s something about the spirit of this country that is unlike any other place I’ve ever visited. India: she gets under your skin.

It feels every day I spend here, I discover another wildly weird, amazing, annoying, or hilarious thing about this great country. Here’s a list her idiosyncrasies that I love and love to hate.

(Most of these observations are based on my time spent in Delhi, and they are just that – personal observations – based on just a brief few months of being here.)

 

Hospitality

The people in India are overwhelmingly hospitable. Everyone I meet invites me to their home for a meal or offers up their contact information so I can get in touch should I ever need anything. When I wanted to do yoga, I was invited to attend a new friend’s private yoga class in her home. When I expressed an interest in food, I was invited over for a traditional home cooked lunch and brought out for dinners at some of the capital’s best restaurants. When I mentioned that I was going on a trip to Mumbai I was connected with a girl who lives there and she graciously welcomed me into her home and played tour guide for my entire stay. When I was in Bombay I got countless messages from my friends back in Delhi sharing advice on what to see and do and contact information of their friends in the city. A woman noticed me sitting alone on a train from Mumbai to Delhi and invited me to sit with her and her friend for dinner and then suggested I move down to their compartment to sleep (for safety’s sake). People are genuine in their offers and everyone has connections and is excited to share them. It is lovely to feel so welcomed into a country and a culture. It is through accepting these invitations that I have been able to catch a glimpse of India from inside its homes and its families – a side of the country I’ve never seen before and I’ve got to say, its beautiful from in here.

Gas, Nose Picking, Bum Picking and Public Urination

Forgive me for speaking of it but it can be a bit shocking when the sound of a large belch or loud fart reverberates through my office but here in India, they don’t have the same shame about bodily function. People on the street pick their noses and their bums unabashedly. Literally everywhere you turn in Delhi, there is a man standing with his legs apart, peeing. Coming from the West, it can be scandalizing but upon further reflection I think perhaps it’s also kind of liberating. This observation also got me thinking about how bizarre societies are in what they chose is “rude.” In India, it’s okay for men to whip out their penises for a quick pee whenever they please but god forbid a young woman walk around with her legs or shoulders out. No problem if you want to pick your nose on the bus sneak a smooch with your lover on the street and, yikes! I imagine coming from a country like India, visiting the West would reveal some equally bizarre contradictions. In the West you can’t eat with your hands. It’s okay for couples to be lovey-dovey but not common for heterosexual men to display affection towards one another. It’s not polite to be more than 15 minutes late. For an Indian, I imagine this would be as confusing as the burping is to me.

Most things are accomplished through personal, face-to-face connections.

In India, it’s all based on who you know. If you need something, you’re most likely going to get it by talking to a guy who knows a guy. I’ve been lucky enough to fall in with a group of people here who know people so this element of Indian culture has worked to my advantage and provided many cool connections and experiences. However, I see the flaw in a system where the connected remain in power, a realm unconnected can’t easily breach.

People are quick to open up.

It doesn’t take long for people here to breach topics that at home, would be considered inappropriate to discuss on a first meeting. Perhaps it has to do with the fact that people in India make fast friends. When you watch meetings on trains or in cafés, it doesn’t take long before the conversation turns into a passionate discussion of religion, rape and politics. And, what’s remarkable is, I’ve never seen these exchanges get mean. People feel free to explicitly and enthusiastically share their opinions. It’s refreshing and enlightening because even after being here a short time, you get an idea of where people stand on important issues.

Lack of Personal Space

It’s no surprise that with 1.3 billion people, this country is crowded. As a result, people here seem much less sensitive to touching. At home we exist in a bubble of personal space that is rarely breached. Here, people do not hesitate to tap, grab, push or lean on you when you’re nearby. It’s one thing I’ve struggled to get used to because while I never considered myself someone adverse to human contact, there is something violating about being tugged on by beggar or body slammed by a fellow passenger.

Singing in Public

People are always spontaneously breaking into song. In India, there is obviously not the same kind of shame and reservations around singing aloud. It’s so lovely to be serenaded by the voices of random strangers singing their hearts out as they stroll to work, drive their auto or simply sit and watch the world go by.

Bargaining

Haggling is a sport. And if you’re going to make it here, you’ve got to get good at it. It can be exhausting and annoying but it’s not really as scary as it seems. What I’ve discovered is that the negotiation between a customer and anything walla is just as much a means of connecting, as it is a way to set the price. My perception is that part of the culture of bargaining lies in the entertainment value. Selling things all day long is tedious (anyone who has worked in retail can likely attest to this) and the exchange that comes with making a sale is enhanced by the thrill of trying to get a good price. With this in mind, bargaining in India should always be approached with a smile. When a walla knows that you are in on the game, you’re much more likely to get a good price and have a positive shopping experience. It’s also important to remember, no one will sell you anything at a loss so you don’t worry about getting too low a price. Be brutal but friendly.

IST

Indian Standard Time (IST) generally runs an hour or so behind. This system works well for me because I am chronically late. Nothing can be accomplished quickly and getting anywhere takes way longer than you can imagine. “Five minutes, madam.” can mean anything from 10 minutes to an hour or more. Living this way can be frustrating but once you’ve accepted it, it’s actually kind of nice. It has helped me calm down and improved my ability to roll with the punches (a very good life skill, I think). In North America everything is go, go, go. Our systems and businesses are constantly striving to achieve efficiency. In India, the hustle bustle is constant at yet, remarkably, there is still a lot of time spent sitting around. Work hours are long but things are accomplished in a very round about way and much time is spent socializing, delegating, negotiating and waiting.

Communication is passive.

In North America, we are all about explicit communication. Terms are clearly outlined, help is straightforwardly offered and questions are plainly answered. Communication India is anything but clear. Often, simple flick of the head is all the response you will get from an auto driver, shop merchant or street vendor. Just because someone hasn’t responded or acknowledged you directly, doesn’t mean they haven’t heard your request. Things are done just so, and if you can relax, the vendor, driver or shopkeeper do what you’ve asked or take you where you need to go, eventually. No need to push, no need to ask again. Just like IST, it’s a good lesson in patience.

Auto drivers who don’t want to drive you home.

I’m always shocked when I ask an auto to take me somewhere and they flat out refuse by just put-putting away. This is a distinctly Delhi phenomenon. While technically it’s illegal (they have to pick you up) if you’re not going somewhere an auto driver feels like heading, most are more than happy to simply drive away. Every time it happens I’m left standing on the side of the road feeling stupid and oddly hurt by the driver’s rejection.

Pushy Cues

I hate pushy cues. Raised in a place where everyone always politely lines up in spacious cues, it’s an adjustment to get used to ramming your way to the front of a line. But, it’s the only way to get what you need. If you leave that 60cm of courtesy space between you and the person in front of you, you’ll never get to the front of the line.

Everyone wants to help… you all the time. 

If you ask for directions, it’s rare that anyone will say that they don’t know. Even if they have no idea where you’re headed, Indian people are so keen to help they’ll often “assist” you regardless. And so, despite of their knowledge (or lack thereof) they will happily point you in a direction. You learn quickly that it’s good to ask for a second opinion. Additionally, people want to help you even when you don’t need help. If you’re haggling with an auto or negotiating with a vendor, it’s not uncommon for a small crowd to gather, everyone trying to offer their two cents. Again, the sentiment is nice but sometimes I can’t help but feel frustrated because c’mon, I’ve got things under control!

Food

This one needs no explanation. The food in this country is delectable and diverse. Food is everywhere and people relish eating. Here is an interesting study about the science of what makes Indian food so delicious and unique on a molecular level.

Honking

Coming from a country where horns mean something, it can be hard to adjust to the incessant racket of horns that is Delhi roads. Cars constantly assert their presence by beeping – beep to pass, beep if someone’s in your way, beep if you see a pedestrian a kilometre ahead, beep if you feel like dancing. It gets under my skin when as a pedestrian you feel bullied by the noise. “YES I see you hurdling towards me and NO you’re not going to hit me!” so why honk!? Otherwise, you get used to the noise.

Pushing the Sale of Anything and Everything

Waiting in an auto at red lights is almost like a trip to the mall. A man comes by with a pile of pirated novels, a little girl offers you a bouquet of flowers, a kid pedals sun blockers for your car window, an older man sells a variety of electronics chargers. What really amuses me, however, is the completely senseless items you often see on offer and the passion with which the salesmen push them. What on earth would I do with a splash paint balloon the size of a small child? The concept that no matter how low the price, I simply don’t want what they’re selling doesn’t seem to exist in the mind of these balloon pushers. It can be a little annoying to assure them a hundred times that you’re really, truly not interested but armed with an understanding of the hilarity of the situation, it’s easier to use it as an opportunity for a good laugh.

House Hunting in India’s Capital

Posted on by under India में

IMG_2781 My Street in Delhi

Finding a house in Delhi wasn’t easy. Because the hostel I was staying in was so nice, I wasn’t tempted to move into sub-par lodgings. The only thing enticing me to leave the hostel at all was the fact that I didn’t want to live in a dorm for three plus months. For me, it was important that my house be located in a safe area. It had to be clean(ish) and most importantly, I wanted to share with people who I could be friends with since, as a new comer in this big city, social connections are important to avoid loneliness.

Here is a little of the wisdom I acquired in my house hunt:

1. Join all the Facebook groups you can find!

In Delhi, the best way to find out about available housing is Facebook groups. I joined all the groups including:

Flat on Rent Flatmates in South Delhi

Expat Looking for Accommodation in New Delhi

Flats and Flatmates – Delhi NCR

Flat & flatmates (south delhi chapter)

Expat looking apartments in delhi

Delhi and NCR flats and flatmates

~~~ Expat in New Delhi ~~~

Flat at Delhi without brokers

Yuni-net

2. Seek out posts in which people have told you a little about themselves or the vibe in their flat. 

Because, for me the social aspect of living with people was important, I was most keen to look at places where the flatmates took the time to describe the living situation in their flat. There are so many posts on all the pages that simply outline the flat “specs” but fail to describe the people or atmosphere.

3. Send messages that tell your potential flatmates a little about yourself.

If you care about relating to your flatmates on a personal level, chances are you’re going to want to live with people who also value the social element of shared accommodations. When you reply to Facebook postings about flats in Delhi, be sure to include a little bit about yourself, your interests and what you’re looking for in a flat/flatmates. This will set you apart from other flat hunters and hopefully connect you with people who share some of your values.

4. When you send messages to potential flatmates/landlords through Facebook, makes sure to also comment on the post letting them know that you have messaged them. 

This is important because often, if you’re not friends with people, your messages can get lost in the “other” folder. Also, it puts your name out there as someone looking for a flat which can send leads your way and help you to network.

5. Ask for photos.

Delhi is not the easiest city to get around. Addresses can be very difficult to locate. Sometimes going to see a place can take all afternoon. For these reasons, it’s good to get some idea of what the place looks like before you depart on the quest to find the flat.

5. Ask about landlord interference.

In Vancouver, landlord interference is never an issue so, before house hunting in Delhi, it would never have occurred to me to ask about it. In Delhi however, some landlords dictate who can come to visit you and when and have a watchful eye on your comings and goings. For me, this kind of living situation doesn’t suit and I would have been disappointed to find myself in a house where visitors from home couldn’t stay with me and friends couldn’t come over to visit.

6. You don’t need a broker.

Brokers can help you find a flat. They generally charge 15 days rent as a fee for their services. Some of the Facebook groups I posted above are curated by brokers however, I don’t think their services are really necessary. If you have the time, it’s very possible to organize housing on your own.

7. Network!

This house hunting experience in Delhi was the first time I networked over the internet. Because I was constantly posting on all the flat groups, I started getting messages from others who were seeking flatmates or had flats to rent. There were girls from Amsterdam I clicked with and we started house hunting together. While we didn’t end up finding a place together, now that they’ve arrived in Delhi we’ve become friends. And they’re not the only friends I made through house hunting.

In person networking is important too. Tell everyone you meet that you’re looking for a flat. You never know who might know someone. Most things in India are done through social connections.

8. Ask about the TOTAL cost of living there. 

Prices posted on Facebook are only the basic rent. In most cases, you will have to pay for electricity, wifi, water, staff, garbage etc. on top of the posted price. I found it helpful to ask the flatmates what they generally paid monthly to give me some idea of what it would actually cost me. It seemed that if rent was 17k, it worked out to a maximum of 20k after expenses. Of course, the time of year also impacts electricity because air conditioning is expensive.

9. Check for a water filter and a dedicated gas line.

The place I moved into has a water filter mounted on the wall of the kitchen. While this is not essential, it’s a super bonus because it eliminates the need to buy bottled water.

Most places have gas stoves that attach to a cylinder that hides under the counter. I’ve heard that these cylinders can be a real hassle to acquire and refill so if you find a place with a dedicated gas line, consider that in your decision making process. (They’re not super common.)

10. A cook and/or maid are a bonus.

It never occurred to me that I would want a maid and a cook but after living here for a while, I’ve discovered the importance of having household staff. Because of the pollution in Delhi, everything is covered in dust, all the time. A daily sweep and/or mop is essential. Without someone to do at least a surface cleaning every day, it’s hard to stay on top of the constantly amassing grime.

A cook is an added bonus. In our house we buy the vegetables and our cook comes every morning and prepares a daal and some sort of vegetable dish as well as roti. It’s really great to wake up and have something to eat for breakfast or take for lunch. I find it hard to find a lot of the ingredients I usually cook with at home so meal planning can be a challenge. Having someone who prepares at least one meal a day alleviates some of this pressure.

Q and A:

What are gated colonies?

As a young woman, gated colonies are the way to go. Many housing areas in Delhi are gated meaning there are fences that run the periphery of the development and gates which are closed after 11pm. this means that it’s safe to walk around at night. You can still get home late through the main gate which is left open but guarded all night.

What does DDA stand for?

DDA apartments are housing complexes/apartments that were build by the Delhi Development Authority (government body). The quality of housing varies depending on the age of the development. Newer ones tend to house smaller flats as the DDA has begun trying to accommodate the swelling urban population. All of the apartments should look the same (it’s illegal to renovate these flats) however you’ll notice that does’t deter everyone from renovating. I learned that the city can come and demolish any construction you do if they so please.

Which neighbourhood is best?

While there are good flats to be found in all of South Delhi, there are some areas where the hunt is a little more hopeful. All the flats I looked at in Safdarjung were nice. Similarly, the prospects in Hauz Khas, Green park and Panchsheel Park are good. Of course though, with these “good” addresses comes a higher price tag. Malviya Nagar tends to be a bit cheaper however there are lots of dingy places. It seems that the closer you stick to the periphery, the better your chances of finding a nice place. Try to avoid the Khirki Extension. If you’re willing to go a bit farther a field, Saket is also nice. I ended up a little West in Munirka and, while it’s a little bit farther from my work, the metro and the hub of south Delhi, I really like the neighbourhood. It also has perks like cheaper shopping and close proximity to Jawaharlal Nehru University.

Day 19

Posted on by under India में, Personal Updates

February 25th

Delhi is great so far.

I am so grateful to have landed in a an amazing hostel in South Delhi and staying here has been a dream. Mayank, the owner, is 26 and started the place because, after studying to be an engineer, he moved to China to work. After a few years on the job, he quit to do a year long backpacking trip around Asia and he realized that didn’t want to be an engineer after all. Because of his passion for travel and experience as a long-term backpacker, he has succeeded in creating an almost perfect hostel. He’s avoided all the classic hostel mistakes – shaky creaky beds, hidden costs, abundant rule posters. The place is really comfy, fun and clean. I was lucky that there were a few other people staying here long term. They became good friends.

I’ll be moving out of the hostel on Monday into a house by one of the universities. It’s the cutest little place. My room is green and bright and huge. We have a rooftop terrace and a maid and a cook! I’ll be living like a queen. My roommates are an Indian guy who works in Delhi and a German girl who goes to the uni. They both seem super cool and interesting. I’ll be sad to leave the hostel but I’m excited to have my own space.

The internship is good. Like everything in this country, it runs on IST (Indian Standard Time). This works well for me since I’m always late. On my first day of work, I showed up at 10, like my supervisor told me to.  By 11 she still wasn’t in. The guy at the office was reassured me: “She’ll be here eventually. This life or the next life…”

Right now, I’m helping Navdanya with their upcoming Indigenous Drink Festival and with their nutrition literacy program (Gardens of Hope) in schools.

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