Things I Love Thursday

It’s my last week in Hong Kong and I’m thinking of all the things I’m happy and thankful for and will miss:

♥ Being back home and being able to see family and some very old friends. Relationships are liable to change over distance and time, so I’m particularly appreciative of the ones still around.

♥ Such cheap, good food! Latest escapade today: 24 inch wide pizza. It was also genuinely delicious.

♥ The Octopus pay pass. It’s so easy and convenient to use, not only on the train system and all busses, but also at car parks, several convenience stores and vending machines.

♥ Listening to train and bus stops being announced in Cantonese, Mandarin and English.

♥ Inexpensive clothing at Fa Yuen Street in Mong Kok, where everything is either about or below CA$10.

♥ Mochi ice cream: balls of ice cream wrapped in mochi skins. One of my most beloved snacks as a child and the perfect summer treat. (They came out with a honeydew flavour!)

♥ A glass lamp that my mother bought for me some ten years ago is still my favourite; the glass is pink and has painted flowers on the inside so it glows beautifully when lit in the dark. If I ever have my own permanent home, I’d like to bring this over, if I could be sure it wouldn’t break.

♥ Visiting a really old puppy today who is fifteen years old but thinks he’s five or younger. He kept wanting to play despite wheezing like my grandmother. He looks a little like the puppy in the icon, but darker and much happier.

Vancouver in a few days! Summer blue skies, homemade salsa and guacamole. I’m looking forward to those.

today, tomorrow, 1989

They are on my mind this year more than ever, those students who would have been my age now when they died twenty-two years ago.

Growing up in Hong Kong, I was never sure what to think about that day. Western media simplifies it down to one declaration: they died for democracy. But asking the people who were alive at the time, who were here, who were there, who kept up with everything as events unfolded, is mining a confusion of complexity, a myriad of viewpoints reflecting the uncertainty and the differing opinions of the time. And because the government won’t talk, the only thing I knew was that I didn’t know. For the most part, I still don’t.

I’m not sure what prompted me, but I found myself up until four in the morning last year, reading and searching for answers to something I desperately wanted to comprehend. The internet is not the most reliable source, but then again, what is? Wikipedia is at least a good a starting point as many others, if one cares to take the time and read through all of it. There are still snippets of footage haunting the ‘net. TIME also ran a short article last year that explains and highlights some of the subtleties that typical Western portrayals skip right over. The corruption among petty officials, the economic grievances, the continuing state intervention in daily life.

And then there are the conflicting stories I hear when I ask. About the sympathy and support (including financial) that the students gained from Hong Kong, Taiwan and other overseas Chinese communities. How some student leaders took to leading the high life in rich hotels with the money they received while others went hungry. The filthy conditions the square was in which, being government property, in all likelihood would have incurred the wrath of any country’s government. The divisions, the splits among the students. The hard-line leaders who had lived through the Sino-Japanese war, the civil war, the internal chaos incurred by the Cultural Revolution which had only ended ten years before, military men who knew about sacrificing a few to save the many from descending into turmoil once again. Deals that were made, deals refused. The students who wouldn’t leave. Some of the leaders who chose to escape. The ones who didn’t know they should.

Where does agenda end and truth begin? Is that even the right question? Somewhere in the mess of text and sound are the stories of what happened. I haven’t yet found them.

As I continue my uncertain unearthing this year, I have been reminded more than once how many people suffered and died in the past century alone. They are not remembered. These students are not more special or valuable simply because the world at large sees them standing under the banner of democracy; the others were every bit as important to their families as these students were to theirs. And I do not ever want to think that the others do not bear remembering.

But today and tomorrow, I want to remember these students in particular. As I pay my respects to them, I think of how young they were, how young I am, how much my mother treasures me, how much their mothers grieve for them. How much they all deserve something more than silence.

Comments closed until I decide whether I should have posted this or not.

Things I Love Thursday

I’m rushing about today because I have errands to run and a Chinese wedding banquet to go to tonight that probably won’t end until late. This is a quick list of what’s been fabulous in the last two weeks (I missed last week because my mind was on other things while in China):

♥ Seeing my grandmother in Beijing who is doing quite well. She was very pleased to see both my brother and myself at the same time, which hasn’t happened since four years ago.

♥ Beijing food I love: pancakes, chive turnovers, Peking roast duck, homemade dumplings (from scratch!)… and also the fabulous Beijing Books Building where I think I could sit and read all day on any of its several floors (and many people do). I stocked up on some learning materials and also a book on learning to speak Shanghainese. If I could learn live, that would be awesome, but sadly, I have no Shanghainese-speaking relatives in Vancouver.

♥ While on the subject of food, Hong Kong’s Pizza Express dough balls have got to be one of their best inventions. Just balls of doughs baked like a pizza crust and served with butter, pesto rosso and pesto genovese. Definitely have to try this when I get back to Vancouver.

♥ Other food I am gleefully consuming include Hong Kong dim sum (Vancouver dim sum is quite decent but it’s wonderful to have so many more choices for cheap), soup with puff pastries (I have a thing about puff pastries), egg tarts (my love for egg tarts seems to be passing into legend as three different people purchased me egg tarts over the last four days without me saying a word), salted fish and diced chicken fried rice, Chinese desserts… I think I’m going to go on an expedition for tofu fa tomorrow, I’ve been craving it so much.

♥ I went to Macau yesterday for a day trip and we ate plenty of good food and watched my brother bungee jump from Macau Tower. More on that later!

♥ My fabulous brother also set up wi-fi at home in Hong Kong so I can now access the internet as much as I want. Even though I don’t do it very often, it’s nice to have that option.

♥ Axis of Awesome’s ‘How to Write a Love Song’ amuses me:

[youtube=https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fSuIZ11JdUg]

 
♥ Dear Tommy, I’m so glad I got to see you before you moved on. You were the cat that taught me how to love every other cat and I’ll always think the world of you.

notes from fragrant harbour (iv)

One of these days, when I am older and look old enough that my relatives won’t worry about my getting kidnapped if I so much as walk on the streets alone, I’d like to go back to Beijing and do all the things I only caught glimpses of this time around: to walk the whole of Chaoyang Park, rediscover that street dedicated to selling musical instruments, find the one that sells art materials. I want to find the siheyuan my mother used to live in and stop by each of her schools that she pointed out when we drove by at a distance. Then there are all the museums and tourist attractions I want to revisit, see if I’ll feel differently from my memories, see what I’ll think now. Eat more Peking duck and laobing, find street food and hutong, go through every floor of the Beijing Books Building. So many books!

But I don’t mind that I didn’t this time around. It is good to just sit with my grandmother and be with her whenever I can.

On another note, I’m back in Hong Kong and giving up on the idea of taking photos through the eyes of a tourist; I can’t pretend to be a stranger to this place. Weaving through the crowds of people, dodging the drip-drip of air-cons on streets, jaywalking striding confidently across roads in the spaces between rumbling vehicles — these aren’t the things that a stranger knows how to do right away.

A stranger doesn’t have a list of favourite food items and restaurants that need to be ticked off before she leaves, some in the most random, tucked-away places. (There’s a place in Tai Po Marketplace that sells the most delicious tofu fa I’ve ever had. Smooth as silk and served with sweet ginger syrup, Old Granny’s beancurd dessert was only HK$6 the last time I went — about 75 cents Canadian.)

But there are black kites flying around our home quite often and I hope to take a picture of them. At first I thought they were eagles because, well, I don’t know birds.

Only two weeks more and then it will be back to Vancouver. Though I can’t complain about missing my family if I choose to be away, let’s just say I will.

if i could talk to rocks

My mother is the kind of person who can coax conversation out of a rock. She is chatty, and her chattiness invites an equal response from her ‘chattees’, especially from taxi drivers in Beijing who wax eloquent on the economy, national politics, family concerns, the relationships between you and me.

Listening to their passionate speeches on the myriad complexities of life in one very particular place, I wish I could take up every person who’s ever commented authoritatively on what ‘my’ country should or should not be doing, magically empower them with the understanding of the local language, drop them in a dozen places dotted around China, and have them maybe realise that there is more to everything about the country than is portrayed in foreign media, that maybe the people who live here know best what they want and need, or at least have more reason to know.

I get so tired of certain assumptions that some individuals like to make. The generalisations, the oversimplifications, the holier-than-thou attitudes cultivated by certain cultures that believe themselves the pinnacle of ‘civilisation’. It’s curious how the most opinionated individuals are always the ones who have never been to China, who have never spoken a word of Chinese, who have no interest in simply listening and learning about another person’s way of being without immediately passing judgement if it doesn’t jive with their world, who don’t really know anything worth knowing at all. They quote what they’ve heard on the news and snort if you even dare to disagree for whatever reason (and there are so many), suggesting you’re a product of propaganda if you don’t believe we should all be just like them. To those individuals, tell me: Why do I have to be made to feel less valid so that you can feel better?

I don’t talk about these things publicly half the time because I can’t bear to, not because I don’t care. I’m not argumentative by nature; I don’t want to enter combative debates where I can see how the hierarchy looks before we’ve even begun. Not least, who am I to talk and defend when I don’t even live here, have never lived in the mainland, and chose to leave? What do I know of the hundreds of problems I don’t keep up with in the news, and of the thousands more that I can’t know because I’m not here? But sometimes someone will come up to me and corner me into giving an opinion, and then it’s another round of hopeless defence because they weren’t asking because they wanted to hear any voice but their own.

And really, if I had the power to grant understanding of the Chinese language, I’d use it on myself so I could be a little less lacking in my grammar and my writing, than waste it on someone who doesn’t care. I’d like to know the words to coax my grandmother to speak a little more about the Cultural Revolution which my mother will never speak about, and which my father forbade me to ask, except when she sees her mother. I wish I could dare to ask a little more about the civil war, about the Japanese invasion, everything about the family I’ll never know beyond my own grandparents.

But I don’t think I have the right — I’ve never gone through anything remotely like what my parents or grandparents did and can’t understand. No doubt this is the reason why they rarely speak to me directly about the past, and what little I know is gleaned from listening in on their conversations with one another. I don’t have the right to ask my grandmother to tell me how she never saw her mother again after the family was split up in the midst of the civil war, my mother to recount whatever griefs she endured. Impersonal history as this may be to others, I can’t force my loved ones to relive their pains to relieve my curiosity.

All I can do is wait for their conversations to begin. Then, I listen.