I Want This For My Bedroom Floor

This is the floor of the great hall in Amsterdam’s Royal Palace, which in fact wasn’t royal during the Golden Age in the 1600s. It was the city hall, and of course, since trade was so important to the lifeblood of the city, the lavish decorations pay homage to seafaring and world travel. The image …

Kids These Days! circa 1643

Here’s my favorite portrait from the Rijksmuseum. There are a number of interesting things that Gerard Bicker, the 20-year-old son of a spice trader in 1642, can tell us about his era. For one thing, look at how perfect his skin is. This might not be just an artistic liberty. Cosmetics were popular among the younger …

Mixed Blessing

We took a boat tour of the canals this afternoon. The scenery was beautiful, but—perhaps due to the multilingual nature of tourism in Amsterdam—the guided part of the tour came in the form of an audioguide in the language of your choice. The format was a dialogue between a husband and wife who have been …

Amsterdam, Part 1

Dad is jet lagged and still managed to tow me through a museum and a half after he picked me up at the airport. But he fed me street waffles, so it was a good day by my reckoning. Amsterdam is incredible. I want to live here. But I have to admit that I say …

The Good Old Days

And by old, this time I just mean the days before those tiny, fussy La Boulange pastries replaced the chunky muffins, chewy chocolate chip cookies, slabs of coffee cake, lemon-pound-cake-with-an-inch-of-glaze, and raggedy chocolate and vanilla donuts at Starbucks. But globalization has only so long a reach. Marooned in a Starbucks in St. David’s, I have …

What Did I Just Eat? Part…6?

Do we have canned beef in the US? I’d never seen it before. Since I’m sick as snot, I bought canned beef at Lidl, theorizing that beef stew is a good comfort food. When I opened the can, I realized we probably do have canned beef at home; it’s just labeled wet cat food.

The Romans Had This Problem Too

No wonder we’re always reading about what a huge problem disease posed in Roman garrisons. The same goes for youth hostels. I picked up the flu in my eight-person barrack (I mean dormitory). Then my hands were shaking so hard on the walk to the train station that I dropped my phone in two inches …

This Coffeeshop Has An Honest-To-God Roman Gate In The Floor

That’s all, folks—I’m packing my bags and moving to York. Just change my return address to this coffeeshop. The reason begins with “tea and tuna panini” and ends “while sitting on top of an ancient Roman gate in the floor.” Meet the Croque Monsieur coffeeshop: It’s next to York’s medieval Bootham Bar gate, which is …

Barley Hall, And Other Adventures In The Snow

Plans to meet Levi having fallen through, I found myself at loose ends in my favorite city in the UK. I had no particular plan, so I swung by the Tourist Information Center, obtained a map of York’s independent bookstores, tracked down the delightful Little Apple Books, purchased Stardust by Neil Gaiman, and went hunting for a …

I’m Living In A Barracks

I’m staying in a hostel with seven roommates (six of whom snore). I make it bearable by telling myself that the Roman legionaries at Caerleon had it worse.    

Aberdare Is Really Old, Isn’t It?

I got seasick scrolling through my Cleopatra essay tonight, and while looking across my room to rest my eyes, it hit me for the first time how many other girls must have lived in this room before me. The current Aberdare Hall opened in 1895. That’s 123 years ago. I’m only here for six months, …

The Kate and Rachel Coffeeshop Series, Part I*

Rachel and I are not good for each other’s caffeine habits. Here’s us “working” on our Cleopatra papers in Milk & Sugar yesterday. *You may notice that I’ve put up three posts in the last half-hour. This is because I’m looking for things to do other than finishing my Cleopatra paper based on three lectures …

The Strike Continues

We’re on Week 7 of classes, but only Week 3 of lecture content. I haven’t had my Cleopatra class or my literature class in a month.  I’m not complaining, mind. I apologize to my readers for not using all that free time to see more castles. Train tickets are expensive, bus routes are complicated, and I …