OK, I’m sold on this whole Dalmatia thing: Hvar’s sealed the deal.
I mean, what’s not to love? Clear turquoise waters. Lovely Mediterranean foliage. Lots of sexy Croatians (whatever your inclinations). Well it’s not perfect…there’s still the smoking. And a dearth of sandy beaches (pebble and rock; you’ll need a cushion). But lovely, so lovely.
Hvar town (won’t you take me to) is compact: a stroll around the inner harbour will take less than 15 minutes. Very Venetian architecture. Lots of cafés where no one rushes you. Becomes a party town at midnight. No, not until midnight–AT midnight. Bring your earplugs.
And, if you can swing it, get a place with AC. I didn’t and suffered. The Delfin’s location is great, even if the rooms are rather basic. But no AC means very warm for sleeping–and too loud to sleep with your windows open. I did think to ask for a fan for my second night (helped. a lot.), but on balance I’d try to pay a bit more (€61/night is cheap for Hvar). Were I part of the party people it’d perhaps be different. I ain’t.
A short (7 minute) water taxi ride away is Jarolim island, which is Dalmatian for “leave your swimsuit at home.” Thus, where there is nudity there are Germans. And Swedes. But not (m)any Hrvats. Still a lovely, quiet place–so long as you bring your bum cushion. I had mine. And my swimsuit, just for the record…
Hvar is rather posh. There’s a number of very expensive vessels in the harbor; many of the restos are rather dear. But there’s also places like Marinero’s, where I had a fried shrimp meal for about $25. Including salad, fries (hey I missed lunch!), and ginormous bottle of mineral water.
In an hour it’s dovidjenje Hvar and dobro vece Dubrovnik (via Split). And later tonight the communication embargo with Himself (who’s on a diving boat) ends. Yay!