A Letter to Istanbul

Posted on January 4, 2015 by mikauber

Dear Istanbul,

I am breaking up with you. I thought I would do this formally, on paper, just to get my thoughts out as best as possible. The way I feel about you is complicated, and thus this parting of ways will impact me in more than the usual ways. I can’t predict exactly how, but rest assured that there will be countless nights where I won’t be able to find sleep, the memory of your warm September nights drawing me into a dangerous realm of nostalgia.

Your sound, a mad cacophony of music, voices, and horns, will reverberate through me, making everything else seem so quiet, so sterile, in comparison. Sometimes, I will inhale and your smell, of dirt and cigarettes, of spices and sea, will overpower me. And rest assured, your taste will forever poison me, as nothing will ever taste as good as baklava and tavuk döners.

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Us in happier times

But, here’s the thing. Neither of us are so naive as to believe there were only good times between us. You and your darkness took my wallet. Were you aware that the red billfold was a gift from my mother? No? Well it was, and I hope you feel due shame. There were also those nights where you and your army of barking stray dogs interrupted my precious sleep up until dawn. You know how I need my eight hours. The final straw came when you grew so cold, your temperament so stormy. How was I supposed to keep living with you and your persistent moodiness? You tell me! AHHHHHHH!!!!

As you can see, I think it is best that you let me go. I do hope that we can meet again, perhaps as friends, in the future.

With love,

Mikayla

Florence vs Rome

Posted on December 24, 2014 by mikauber

On my recent trip to Italy, I visited two of it’s cities. The first was Florence, a romantic and charming city that birthed the Renaissance. The second was Rome. Known as the Eternal City, it is the capital of Italy and sees millions of tourists every year. These are how they compared during my stay.

1. The streets of Florence had cute little garbage trucks that asked us to please keep the city clean. The streets of Rome were covered with a layer of dirt and graffiti.

CUTE!

2. The David. Before seeing him in person, I thought he was just another statue. Obviously, I was wrong. Seeing David triggers a spiritual awakening of sorts, as the observer is seeing something so beautiful, so perfect. There is nothing else like it in the world. I especially liked the backside of the statue. Yum.

In contrast, Rome showed us only slivers of the Trevi Fountain from behind a layer of construction fencing. My long-dreamed of Lizzie McGuire moment was stolen from me by this city.

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Oh hey, construction!

3. Florence is small enough to navigate by foot. In Rome, I almost got trampled trying to enter a bus. And then the elderly lady next to me had to make a sudden exit because she started having a claustrophobia attack.

4. I had no expectations regarding Florence. I expected Rome to amaze me. Perhaps this is the root of my disappointment.

Inside the Grand Bazaar

Posted on December 11, 2014 by mikauber

Many things vie for one’s attention in the Grand Bazaar. This massive covered market houses over 4,000 shops whose salespeople call out as you walk past, trying to get you to buy their merchandise. Dating back to the 15^th century, the bazaar was once a commercial hub for traders, internationally and locally. Now, it is mostly filled with touristy knickknacks, and has sections of stores that sell gold, leather, carpets, antiques, lamps, water (hookah) pipes, and various other souvenirs. In short, it is the perfect location to purchase heaps of Christmas presents for my friends and family back home.

Entrance to the bazaar

A quaint avenue inside the bazaar

I entered the bazaar with this mission in mind. At first, it was hard to stay focused, what with all the crowds of people, noise, and dizzying array of shop upon shop. But then I saw a drool-worthy bag in the corner of one store’s window. The owner told me 150 lira. Obviously this was not acceptable. I got it for 50 lira after a quick dance of haggling back and forth. I would like to think the low price was due to my impeccable haggling abilities, but really, I only had 50 lira in my wallet. I got up to leave, telling him I would come back after visiting an ATM and looking around a bit, which was a lie, as there was no way I would ever be able to find my way back to this one store in the mass of the bazaar. He knew this, and agreed on the sum of 50 lira.

Following this purchase, I felt energized, ready to tackle the rest of my shopping list. The bazaar is filled with souvenirs that no one really needs, but inevitably ends up purchasing. Some good items to pick up for around 10 lira include fez hats, evil eye bracelets, the silver cups used for serving Turkish coffee, and boxed apple tea. Nicer pieces, like statement jewelry and watches, can be found in the center of the market, in the old Antique Bazaar.

A variety of cafes also speckle the inside of the bazaar. My favorite is Şark Kahvesi. I ended up here after my long day of shopping came to a close. Hopefully everyone will enjoy their presents. I certainly enjoyed buying them. Oh retail therapy, how I love thee so! The bazaar is open from 8:30am to around 7pm every day except for Sunday, when it is closed.

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How to Tourist in Budapest

Posted on December 3, 2014 by mikauber

1. Watch this video before you arrive on Hungarian soil. It features my celebrity crush, Rick Steves, and a lot of useful information.

2. The best way to reach the city center from the Budapest Airport is by the airport’s Minibusz service. It’s desk is located next to the exit and costs around 13 Euro. While public transport is cheaper, to get to the city requires taking a long and arduous journey and transferring between the bus and metro lines.

3. Budapest is really one of the most stunning cities in the world. For the best views and photo opportunities, climb to the top of Gellert Hill, take a boat cruise on the Danube, or ride the funicular up to Buda Castle. (I would like to sadly note that during my stay the funicular was closed for maintenance. Excuse me while I take a moment of silence and choke back my sobs).

WHYYY

4. Go to the baths, preferably the Szechenyi one. It is pure bliss after a long day spent traipsing through the city.

5. Drink lots of alcohol. It will help you stay warm. But don’t forget where your hostel is located and to drink water once you get there. But seriously, it cost me 4 USD for a mixed drink and about a dollar for a glass of wine.

6. If you’re traveling with an American debit card, be prepared to experience ATM woes. I only found one that would accept my card. The ones at the airport and all throughout the city center were Euronet, a name I now identify with terror and frustration.

7. Ride the public transportation. It’s old, charming, and a hip shade of yellow. Just make sure that when boarding the trams you remember to insert your ticket into the nondescript box near the entrances. Otherwise, you run the risk of getting grumbled at by a Hungarian fare officer. I can’t think of a scarier fate.

8. Walk across one or more of the bridges. Stop in the center. Take in the view. Breathe. You are in Budapest. Everything is grand, here in this moment.

Me + Chain Bridge

Happy Turkey Day from Turkey

Posted on November 27, 2014 by mikauber

The third Thursday of November is an important day for Americans. It is Thanksgiving, the day everything happens earlier than usual. My dad typically wakes up at 5 in the morning to start preparing the turkey, my extended family starts showing up around 4pm, in order for us to eat by 5:30 or so, and then everyone ends up on the couch before 7 in massive food comas.

Oh yes

Alas, this particular Thanksgiving will be different. There will be no Macy’s Thanksgiving Day Parade, none of my mom’s delicious stuffing or pumpkin pie, and (thank god) no family members forcing me to watch football. The prospect of spending my first Thanksgiving away from home makes me feel rather sad. However, the true purpose of the day is to reflect and give thanks. Be it turkey, family, or the ability to breathe, there are a lot of things to be grateful for in this world. Remembering this, I feel less sad. This year, in particular, I have a long list of people and things I am beyond thankful for.

I may not be dining on turkey tonight, however it’s all good. I have been living in Turkey for the past three months after all.

Peace is Only a Ferry Ride Away

Posted on November 12, 2014 by mikauber

At times, life in a large city like Istanbul can become overwhelming. Between the crowds of people and the never-ending traffic, it can be hard to find a quiet respite from all of the noise. Thankfully, the peaceful Prince’s Islands, a group of nine islands located 20 km southeast of Istanbul, are only a 45-minute ferry ride away.

For my trip to the islands, I visited Kınalıada, the first stop off of the ferry. The ride over was an adventure in itself, with an ever-present breeze of fresh sea air and amazing panoramic views of Istanbul. It was quite crowded though, perhaps because people wanted to take advantage of what could turn out to be one of the last beautiful fall days.

View from the ferry

After nearly an hour of sitting, I was ready to disembark and start exploring the island. As my cousin excitedly read off of her iPhone, “the islands have remained untouched by the hands of time.” Meaning, walking around the island’s narrow streets feels like you have been transported back into the past, into the 19^th century. There are no cars or private motors allowed on the islands, only charming horse drawn carriages and bikes.

The islands have not always been such a charming place, however. During the Byzantine Empire, unseated emperors, empresses, and other royalty were exiled here with their families. The unprotected islands were devastated by Arab invasions during the seventh and eighth centuries, as well as in 1453 when the Ottomans captured the Byzantine capital. Things stabilized during the Ottoman rule, and wealthy Jewish and Turkish families settled in large numbers on the islands. Today, Turkish residents make up the majority of the population.

Our first priority upon exiting the ferry was finding food. There are a string of good-looking restaurants on the first street, offering views of the water and a lot of fish entrees. They are relatively expensive though, and a little too touristy for my liking. We walked down the next street, and found a small place called Cafe Ilker where the owner let us cook our own meat on the grill. We dined on delicious köfte while the restaurant’s cat took a nap next to us.

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The restaurant cat

Marlene cooking our lunch

Kınalıada, the smallest of the four main islands, is composed of three hills, a well-preserved 19^th century Armenian church, a series of beaches, both free and with an entrance fee, and a set of fantastic homes that stretch up the hilly street behind the waterfront. We walked up this hill and were able to enjoy fantastic views of the green island, as well as the glimmering Sea of Marmara. In this moment, the chaos of Istanbul seemed so far away, and we were able to just breathe, a sense of inner calm settling upon us.

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Old + New

For those who wish to indulge in the tranquility of the islands, ferries leave daily from the Kabatas dock and cost around 8 lira for a one-way ticket. The ferry stops at the four main islands, including Büyükda (the biggest island), Heybeliada, Burgazada, and Kınalıada. For a complete list of departure times, see their website: http://www.ido.com.tr/en/timetables/2014-autumn-winter-timetable/715

Thoughts Whilst Walking through Istanbul

Posted on November 8, 2014 by mikauber

I met you on the Istiklal Caddesi and we walked with the masses, bumping into strangers and each other, and we walked past three Starbucks, none of which you would let me enter. We were too busy, trying to see so much, in such a small amount of time. I wanted to hit the artsy Galata district, to take photos of graffiti and eye the beautiful hipsters. You wished to wander through the Süleymaniye neighborhood, with the students of Istanbul University, and then sip on freshly squeezed juice for 1 lira.

Today was a warm sunny day. I fear it will be one of the last before November’s chill sets in. I couldn’t help but get lost in my thoughts as we walked. My time here in Istanbul is more than halfway through and I am worrying that I haven’t made the most of it. I fear there are so many magical places, hidden nooks and crannies of this city, ones that I will never become acquainted with. I worry that I will forever be a voyeur, simply looking at the city, and forgetting to take part within it’s life. I’m worried that I haven’t learned enough Turkish and that I have yet to fall in love with a Turkish man. That I won’t be able to zip up my suitcase, especially with the 10 boxes of Turkish Delight I purchased today.

I know there are people who are as enchanted by this city as I am. I see them walking its streets, looking for something, whether it be a story, an adventure, vodka, a romance, a friend, some cultural insight, an escape from their disillusionment, a piece of baklava, a souvenir, or good old fashioned knowledge, we are all looking to capture a piece of Istanbul’s color within our hearts. Knowing this comforts me.

You and I say goodbye near the Şişhane Metro stop. Twas a good day.

Some Müzik

Posted on November 2, 2014 by mikauber

A Jaunt into Southern Turkey

Posted on November 1, 2014 by mikauber

I really hate the trappings of time. It passes by painfully slowly, like molasses oozing off of a spoon, during the unpleasant moments, while racing through the amazing moments so quickly. Too quickly.

This past weekend was a prime example of time’s constraints. I journeyed to a series of breathtaking sights, including Pamukkale and Ephesus, in the southwestern region of Turkey. I traveled as part of a large tour group, with a tight schedule to follow. There were many sights to see, not nearly enough time to spend at each one. To be honest, it was kind of a blur of hurry up, now wait, now ride on a bus for an insufferable amount of time. Mornings were spent waiting, for what felt like an eternity, to depart from the hotel. When we did finally make it to our destinations, it felt like there was never enough time to soak everything in.

In spite of the trip’s shortcomings, the stops we made were rich in aesthetic beauty and historical significance. Our first stop was beautiful Izmir, Turkey’s third largest city. It was a sunny morning, the water in the bay a glittering blue green. We spent around an hour strolling along the palm-tree lined waterfront, walking past the Cumhuriyet Ağacı Anıtı monument and ending up in Cumhuriyet Square. It was a short visit, definitely not enough time to really see everything Izmir has to offer. I hope to find myself back here in the future.

IZMIR

The next stop of importance was the ancient city of Ephesus (Efes). Dating from the 10^th century BC, it was built by Greek colonists. The city flourished after it came under Roman rule in 129 BC. Time has been kind to Ephesus. The ruins are amazingly well preserved, making it easy to imagine what life was like over 2000 years ago. The public toilets were especially intriguing. A social place, people sat side by side on the series of benches while they, um, took care of business.

Toilets of Ephesus

On the last day, we visited Pamukkale (means cotton castle in Turkish). It is perhaps one of the oddest, most extraordinary places in existence. Simply put, it is a vast stretch of glistening whiteness, dotted with small blue pools filled with the flowing hot spring waters. Taking my first step onto the limestone, I felt like Dorothy, transported out of Kansas and into a magical land. The ground was unexpectedly hard, definitely not cotton, and also deceptively slippery. I almost fell to my death a number of times. The water in the pools (travertines) was warm, the ground squishy. It was all a bit too much for the senses. It took about 45 minutes to 1 hour to make our way down the limestone cliff, but one could easily spend an entire day swimming and lazing around, weather conditions permitting. Unfortunately, we were blessed with a cold and cloudy day.

Ahhh so picturesque

Looking back at the trip, afforded with distance in both time and space, one thing has become clear to me. With the passage of time, events become easier to view through rose-colored lenses. The positives become more immediate, the negatives fading into funny stories. Perhaps time is not altogether evil.

Mosque Hopping

Posted on October 18, 2014 by mikauber

You can’t visit Istanbul without taking in a mosque, the house of worship for followers of Islam. These grand structures are not only architectural marvels, but also feature stunning examples of Islamic artwork. Fortunately, there are many to choose from, with over 3,000 in Istanbul alone. If there is a long line outside one mosque, walk just a couple of blocks and you will easily find another one to enter. Here are three good ones to check out.

1. The Blue Mosque (Sultanahmet Camii)

The call to prayer, a soaring, hypnotic chant, spills out onto the ancient streets of Istanbul’s Sultanahmet neighborhood five times a day from this mosque’s minarets. Built in the 17^th century during the reign of Ahmed I, this popular and important mosque gets it’s nickname from the beautiful blue tile work ornamenting it’s interior. It functions as a working house of worship, despite the ever-present stream of tourists that fill it’s walls with camera flashes and hushed voices. Men pray in the main hall, while women pray in the back, in screened areas. It is considered to be the last great mosque from the Ottoman classical period of architecture. One can certainly see why.

Interior of the mosque ft. much editing

Expect to wait in line to enter the Blue Mosque. It is free, but closes after 7pm to tourists and during pray five times a day.

2. Ortakoy Mosque

SAMSUNG CAMERA PICTURES This enchanting mosque is situated in a picturesque location, overlooking the Bosphorus Strait. Constructed in 1853, it has seen hard times. (Think fires and earthquakes). Hence, the mosque has been reconstructed and renovated multiple times over the years. Now, glittering chandeliers and high windows make for a breathtaking interior. It is small inside, with really just a strip of carpet available for visitors to stand on. It is quieter than the Blue Mosque, with fewer tourists crowding it’s insides.

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3. Nuruosmaniye Mosque

I stumbled upon this peaceful mosque on a sunny day by mere chance. Located near the entrance of the Grand Bazaar, it dates back to 1755 and was built by architects Mustafa Aga and Simeon Kalfa. It’s a nice and quiet respite from the bustling streets outside. I sat on the soft carpets for a long stretch of time, letting my thoughts float up, towards the high ceilings.

Ahhh so pretty

When visiting a mosque, dress code is of the utmost importance. Women must have their knees covered (wear jeans not leggings), as well as hair. Most mosques, such as this one, will supply you with free headscarves to enter, but there are also always people pushing you to buy scarves outside. Men must have their knees covered as well. Also, remember to remove your shoes (no matter how stinky your feet may be) before entering all mosques. This is mainly to keep the carpets clean and free of outside impurities.

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Me + Headscarf

So, whilst you are in Istanbul, pay a visit to one or more of it’s 3,000+ mosques. It is an experience rich with historical and spiritual value, as well as evidence that humans are capable of crafting architectural gems.

TURKISH DELIGHTS

The sweeter bits and pieces from my study abroad experience