Author Archives: carissa chua

Acrylic Nails: Are They Worth the Damage?

Among young adult and teen women, acrylic nails have become a popular trend. Despite the range of nail designs possible through acrylic nails, this beauty routine is hotly debated due to exposure to toxic chemicals.

What are acrylic nails?

Long and Complex nail designs can be achieved using acrylic nails (credit: Bvasilev1, Wikipedia Commons)

Acrylic nails are a form of nail extensions that use a liquid and powder formula to create a sturdy fake nail. The powder contains poly(methyl methacrylate), also known as acrylic glass. Acrylic glass is a type of synthetic plastic polymer. This polymer gets activated when in contact with the liquid monomer used in acrylic nail formation. This liquid contains ethyl methacrylate (EMA) and an inhibitor. The inhibitor prevents immediate polymerization between the liquid and powder. The polymer powder is dipped into the monomer to create a malleable bead that is shaped to fit the client’s nail. Within minutes of application, the mixture cures, forming a solid layer.

The debate against acrylic nails

Many health experts argue against the use of acrylic nails due to the harsh chemicals used in their creation. EMA is particularly concerning. Particles of this highly reactive monomer are likely to remain unpolymerized after the nail has cured. This can cause redness, swelling, and pain in the customer’s nail bed. The reactivity and negative effects of monomers have been discussed at length. Prior to EMA, methyl methacrylate (MMA) liquid monomers were used. MMA has since been banned by the Food and Drug Administration due to severe damage to nails and allergic reactions.

Acrylic nails often use chemicals such as toluene, phthalates, methacrylic acid, and formaldehyde. These chemicals have been proven to cause asthma, allergic reactions, short-term memory loss, and irritate eyes, throat, and lungs.

The effects of these chemicals on clients’ nails and overall health have made acrylic nails a debated service. This argument also extends to nail technicians who are surrounded by these chemicals every day.

Acrylic nails can cause damage to the natural nail when not applied or removed by a professional (credit: Pickpik)

The pros of acrylic nails

Despite some backlash regarding the chemicals used in acrylic nails, many people continue to advocate for this practice due to its strength, cost, and appearance.

The hard layer formed by the polymer and monomer serves as protective over the nails. When applied by professionals, acrylic nails can be used to protect natural nails. This is especially helpful for customers with brittle or weak nails.

Acrylic nails also last for up to 21 days, decreasing the number of times customers must return to the nail salon. In the long run, acrylic nails can be a cost-effective way for customers to continue looking their best.

Lastly, acrylic nails provide unmatched customizations for their clients. Customers can choose from a range of lengths, shapes, colours, and designs.

As showcasing creativity via nail designs becomes more popular, customers stay aware of the potential health concerns that surround their beauty regimen.

-Carissa Chua

Are Your Non-Stick Pans Casing Celiac Disease?

Recent discoveries suggest persistent organic pollutants (POPs) may increase the likelihood of celiac disease, especially in females.

What is celiac disease?

Celiac disease is an autoimmune disorder where the small intestine reacts negatively to the wheat protein (gluten) in foods containing white, rye, and barley. The current solution for celiac disease is to follow a gluten-free diet. Celiac disease is believed to be genetic, however, some research suggests a possible environmental connection.

Research from the New York University School of Medicine found that high levels of Persistent organic pollutants (POPs) in blood samples correlate to an increased likelihood of a celiac disease diagnosis.

POPs are toxic chemicals generated by human activity. Examples of POPs include polybrominated diphenyl ether (PBDEs), perfluoroalkyl substances (PFASs), and p,p’-dichlorodiphenyldichloroethylene (DDE). These pollutants are found in all aspects of daily human life and serve many purposes, as shown in Table 1.

Table 1: Common POPs’ Location and Function

Spraying pesticides on bananas in the 1980s | Location: Big … | Flickr

Pesticides used in fruit farming occasionally contain DDE (Credit: Scot Nelson, Flickr)

In a study of 88 patients from NYU Langone’s Hassenfeld Children’s Hospital outpatient clinic, blood samples were measured for the aforementioned POPs. Subsequent testing for celiac disease was also performed and resulted in 30 patients receiving positive results.

As seen in figure 1, the concentration of POPs in patients with celiac disease is slightly higher than in “healthy” patients. When age, BMI, sex, and genetic predisposition are accounted for, DDE was correlated with a two-fold increase in celiac disease diagnosis.

Figure 1: PBDE, PFAS, and DDE Median Concentrations in Celiacs vs. Non-Celiacs. These bar graphs compare the median blood concentrations of various POPs in patients diagnosed with celiac disorder and non-celiacs. Notably, this figure does not account for age, sex, genetic predisposition, and BMI. (Credit: Carissa Chua, Modified from Gaylord, et. al.)

When separated by sex, PFAS pollutant concentration was found in higher concentrations in females with celiac disorder. Similarly, men with celiac disorder displayed higher levels of PBDEs. While this discovery is interesting, a more thorough, sexually stratified study should be performed using a greater sample size.

Gluten free bread | ????????Professional Photographer ????Twitch C… | Flickr

Attempting to avoid these pollutants may complement a gluten-free diet (Credit: Marco Verch, Flickr)

Continued exploration into the interaction between POPs and celiac disease should be performed to definitively prove any relationship. However, attempting to cautiously avoid toxic pollutants as mentioned above may be a helpful addition to a gluten-free diet.

-Carissa Chua

SOY SAUCE IN SKIN CARE: THE RISE OF KOJIC ACID

Soy sauce, sake, and skincare all have one thing in common — Kojic Acid.

Kojic acid, a by-product of soy sauce and sake production, is currently a debated skincare ingredient due to potential contact dermatitis, an uncomfortable rash, when used on sensitive skin.

Chemists at the University of Pretoria in South Africa are studying the benefits of kojic acid in skincare. Their research has shown recent developments in kojic acid’s effectiveness and safety.

Due to various beauty influencers on platforms like Tiktok, Instagram, and Youtube celebrating kojic acid as a miracle whitening product, it is important to understand the true abilities and downfalls of this ingredient.

Hyperpigmentation can be treated through the use of kojic acid (Credit: Büşranur Aydın, Pexels)

This ingredient is highly sought after due to its skin-whitening properties. Particularly, the acid is being used to spot treat facial hyperpigmentation from sun spots and acne scars.

Kojic acid’s skin whitening features are derived from its ability to inhibit tyrosinase, the enzyme needed to produce the skin pigment melanin. While kojic acid should not be used to lighten overall skin complexion, its “mild antioxidant, antimicrobial, and exfoliating properties,” according to Board-Certified Dermatologist Dr. Jennifer MacGregor, makes it suitable for small-scale skin lightening.

Chemical structure of Kojic Acid (Credit: Fuzzform, Wikimedia Commons)

Despite its generally mild properties, kojic acid should still be used with caution. Prolonged use may increase sensitivity to sun exposure and dermatitis for those with sensitive skin. Discoveries from the mentioned study suggest against using kojic acid at concentrations that exceed 1%. At this concentration, there is a greater risk for contact dermatitis.

Popular skincare brands are saturating the market with kojic acid. The compound can be combined with other well-known ingredients, such as vitamin C, glycolic acid, niacinamide, and hydroquinone.

Depending on the additional ingredients, kojic acid can be diluted to be tolerable for sensitive skin or compounded to accelerate whitening abilities.

Kojic acid can currently be found in various forms to suit consumer preferences. Currently, the most sought-after forms of kojic acid are SkinCeuticals’ Discoloration Defense serum, Koji White’s Kojic Acid Skin Brightening Soap, and Versed Skin’s Weekend Glow Daily Brightening Facial Toner.

As more research is done to understand the properties of kojic acid, beauty and skincare communities are likely to see a rise in the acid’s popularity. Consumers must continue to be vigilant to ensure they are using safe concentrations for their skin conditions.

-Carissa Chua

Soy Sauce in Skin Care: The Rise of Kojic Acid

Soy sauce, sake, and skincare all have one thing in common — Kojic Acid.

Kojic acid, a by-product of soy sauce and sake production, is currently a debated skincare ingredient.

This ingredient is highly sought after due to its skin-whitening properties. Particularly, the acid is being used to spot treat hyperpigmentation from sun spots and acne scars.

Chemical Structure of Kojic Acid (Credit: Fuzzform, Wikipedia)

Despite its generally mild properties, kojic acid should still be used with caution. Prolonged use may cause increased sensitivity to sun exposure and dermatitis for those with sensitive skin. These side effects are exacerbated when kojic acid concentration exceeds 1%.

Popular skincare brands are saturating the market with kojic acid. The compound can be combined with other well-known ingredients, such as vitamin C, glycolic acid, niacinamide, and hydroquinone.

Depending on the additional ingredients, kojic acid can be diluted to be tolerable for sensitive skin or compounded to accelerate whitening abilities.

Kojic acid can currently be found in various forms to suit consumer preferences. Currently, the most sought-after forms of kojic acid are

SkinC euticals’ Discoloration Defense serum, Koji White’s Kojic Acid Skin Brightening Soap, and Versed Skin’s Weekend Glow Daily Brightening Facial Toner.

SkinCeuticals’ Discoloration Defense serum (Credit: SkinCeuticals’)

Koji White’s Kojic Acid Skin Brightening Soap (Credit: Amazon)

– Carissa Chua