An Exchange Student’s Guide to Studying Abroad in Denmark

“When you’re traveling with someone else, you share each discovery, but when you are alone, you have to carry each experience with you like a secret, something you have to write on your heart, because there’s no other way to preserve it.” – Shauna Niequist

Deciding to go on exchange is the easy part. Then comes the jealousy from the friends…the making of travel plans…the outfit preparations… it’s all very exciting. However, once you get past the anticipation and the excitement, moving to a new country for half a year or more can be very daunting. Even having moved to Canada from the States for university (a much smaller change admittedly), coming to Denmark was much more of a culture shock than I’d originally anticipated.

To make the transition process a little easier for other people, I’ve put together a guide to acing exchange in Denmark:

Getting Around 

– Buy a bike (and a good lock). Copenhagen is a relatively small city geographically and there’s bike lanes everywhere (plus it’s flat) so you can get anywhere on your bike. Read up on bike rules here.
– Don’t use the bus – it’s slow and unreliable and I’ve often biked faster than the  uses (seriously just metro or bike).
– The Metro runs every couple of minutes and runs all night. It’s very efficient and I highly recommend.
– Get a Rejsekort – price is half of regular fare and it adds up for all the trips back and forth to the airport. It works for metro, bus and s train.

Food

– Don’t buy takeout it’s very expensive.
– Food in general is very expensive.
– Better to get a full meal if you’re already spending money or get coffee with a friend instead!
– Cook at home (but get used to eating meat because there are not a lot of easy options for vegetarians let alone vegans).
– Try the pastries/desserts – this was my favourite part of danish food and in my mind, the more remarkable of danish foods.
– Black Licorice!! They do it differently here and you’ll fall in love with it.

The Danish Education System:

– Schedules are done differently (much less class time and much less mandatory) so use that to your advantage and travel travel travel! (Quite a few Danes show up on the first day of class, show up at the exam and still get an A)
– School is more concept based and theoretical (define terms, etc) than practical so expect to reflect that in your exams.
– Oral exams are totally weird and grading is sort of arbitrary so just grit your teeth, commiserate with classmates and do your best!

Style

– Always dress nicer than you think you should because the Danes will still out-dress you.
– Wear many layers to plan for variations in weather.
– Don’t wear tight jeans when you’re biking (lost two pairs of jeans that way).
– Eliminate colours.
– Fur is in! I swear Scandinavian women probably singlehandedly drive what still exists of the fur trade. It’s both horrifying but also wonderful (because they look so damn good).

Social life

– Always opt in for the orientation stuff – you’ll regret it if you don’t.
– For the happiest people in the world, Danes are very hard to get to know.
– But, once you do get to know them they are absolutely wonderful people (it just takes a lot to break the ice with complete strangers).
– My friends here were surprised that I consider myself an introvert (US/CAD vs Scandinavia I guess lol) so take that as you will.
– Just put yourself out there and when it’s too hard, you always have over exchange students to rely on before getting back out there.
– You’ll meet fantastic people while you’re here. Make sure to make the most of it!

Housing…the biggest struggle 

– Housing is VERY VERY difficult to find. If you don’t know people, or your school doesn’t give provide housing, you may be in a pretty tight spot.
– If you’re looking for housing, beware of scams! Apparently there’s quite a few out there.
– Many of my friends were able to negotiate longterm deals in AirBnbs so this may be an option for you. (Note that Denmark may be considering banning AirBnb so be sure to look it up before you go).

Things to Bring With You (Because They Don’t Have it Here) 

First of all, check out my packing list. 
– Cough/cold medicine (for some reason they only sell echinacea and which doesn’t do the trick when you need to ‘un-sick’ yourself for traveling, exams, etc.
– Favourite foods: my mom sent me Japanese food & snacks because it was almost impossible to buy here (and if you could buy it, it was ridiculously expensive).

Copenhagen is a pretty small city but give yourself time to get to know it and if you’re able to, travel outside a bit to see what else is out there in Denmark!

Saying My Goodbyes

It’s been 4.5 months, 76 Instagram photos, 9 countries, and 16 blog posts (so far) since I left for Denmark from Seattle. All too quickly, I’m heading back to Vancouver for my FINAL TERM of undergrad (when did that happen?!).

We hope you will remember this fall semester, not only for CBS and Copenhagen, but for the people you will have met. A group of people who will never again be found in one place. A group of people who hopefully will be your friends for life.

This was the quote that CBS opened with when I attended my very first orientation seminar. I hate thinking about how many ‘goodbyes’ I’ve had to say in such a short time but I couldn’t have asked for a better exchange experience or better people to spend it with. A huge ‘THANK YOU’ and ‘I MISS YOU’ to all of you – you know who you are. You made Denmark feel like home these past few months.

 

Since I’ve essentially been MIA the last few months, I’ve created a list of reflections to sum up my experiences:

Without further ado…
Reflections From My Exchange Experience: 

  1. Spending a term abroad is ideal in terms of perfecting your ‘insta aesthetic’ and learning the best camera angles for everything.
  2. Danish is ridiculously hard to learn.
  3. When wielded properly, selfie sticks are surprisingly useful – especially for solo travel (s/o to Haley for teaching me that one).
  4. But never go anywhere without your camera… or Google Maps for that matter.
  5. Hygge is what dreams are made of (look it up or read my blog post).
  6. Hostels are a blessing for the money-strapped student traveler .
  7. Friendliest people I met in hostels: Americans, Australians, Canadians and Brits.
  8. Nobody does Christmas like the Danes.
  9. Europeans will forever dress better than me (but I will keep trying).
  10. It’s amazing how close you can get to people in such a short time – a huge THANK YOU & I MISS YOU ALREADY to all the friends I made. You made Denmark feel like home for the last half year.
  11. Despite it all, I would still choose to live in the Pacific Northwest over almost anywhere else in the world.

I’m so thankful that I was able to experience the last half year and I’m so excited for what’s to come in the next year – hopefully lots of skiing and hiking, more travels and a personal blog (stay tuned). 

XOXO,
Emma

 

Traveling By Hostel: 10 Pros & Cons

To travel is to discover that everyone is wrong about other countries – Aldous Huxley

To hostel or not to hostel? Throughout my various travels during my exchange experience, I have had the opportunity to stay in many different hostels (read: I had no other choice due to budget constraints).

I now feel fairly confident in identifying some of the best parts of the hostel experience (and some of the worst). For anyone considering traveling by hostel, here is a quick PRO/CON overview for you to check out so that you know what you’re getting yourself into!

1. PRO: Inexpensive
Hostels are probably the cheapest accommodations you can find – in several places I paid less than $10/ a night! This is ideal for the budget-traveler such as myself. Additionally, many hostels offer inexpensive food and drink options. For me, this is one of the best benefits; if you spend less money on accommodation and certain meals (such as breakfast), you have more money to spend sightseeing!

2. CON: Sleeping Conditions 
If, like me, you opt for the less expensive group rooms (some sleep up to 20 people), prepare yourself. Hostel rooms are host to bad snorers galore as well as people with different sleep habits (getting up too early or staying up too late). Additionally, a room filled with the body heat of many people can tend to get pretty stuffy. Prep yourself with a sleep playlist (I had a thunderstorm playlist ready for nights with heavy snorers), earplugs and a sleep mask.

3. PRO: Best Locations in the City
I don’t know how they do it but if you’re staying in a hostel, chances are you’re in a far superior location than some of the more posh hotels you might otherwise stay in. I have been able to find multiple hostel options in the beating heart of every city. This is by far one of the best benefits of staying in a hostel.

4. CON: Potentially Subpar Facilities 
Not all hostels are created equal. Expect to encounter creaky beds, dirty showers, dirty floors, weird smells and so much more. What you see in the picture is not always what you get and sometimes being in a hostel just means having a place to sleep that night.

5. PRO: Meeting Cool People 
Hostels host an eclectic range of people from around the world. You’ll meet people on weekend trips, casual backpackers, and serious backpackers (you’ll know who they are) to name a few. Most people you’ll come across are more than happy to trade travel notes, tell you their life story, or even grab a beer with you. I love this aspect of hostels (and group rooms) – it opens you up to all sorts of new adventures!

6. CON: There are Creepy People Too
On the flip side, you can’t live life without meeting a few creepers and these also exist in the context of hostels. My advice? Travel with a friend, trust your instincts and book larger group rooms (that way there will be witnesses if you’re murdered).

7. PRO: Really Unique Hostels 
There are some really unique hostels out there that afford you the option of staying in a castle, prison, etc. Why book a hotel when you could spend the night in a centuries old castle?! Trying to be a princess here…

8. CON: Lack of Security 
While the buildings of the hostels I’ve stayed in have been very secure (key cards just to enter the building, key cards for hallways and rooms), once you’re in a group room, you’re fairly reliant on the goodness of the people staying in the room with you. While I’ve never experienced it, theft can be quite common. Be sure to bring a lock with you and to keep valuables on you.

9. PRO: Organized Group Activities 
Are you looking to meet new people when you travel? Hostels are great for that since most offer daily tours, pub crawls, etc. (as well as having their own bars). While I prefer to avoid tours and explore a city on my own, these activities are fairly unique to hostels and you’ll find like-minded people within a similar age demographic which is always a plus! It’s also a great way to connect with cool people you may run into in your hostel room.

10. CON: Less Standardized Info
Like I said previously, you never know what you’re going to get when you show up at a hostel. Despite now being able to book and find pictures online, hostels tend to ‘surprise’ (negatively) more than traditional hotels do so mentally prepare yourself.

A FEW FINAL TIPS for anyone looking to take the plunge!
Reliable Hostel Chains: Generator Hostels, Plus Hostels (ex. Berlin Plus, Prague Plus)
– Make an account and book through Hostelworld! They often offer deals and have the best selection of hostel offerings in one place. Best part is they show important details such as facilities, proximity to city, and reviews.
– I’ve used Hostelling International less than Hostelworld but it is very very reliable!
– READ THE REVIEWS! I’ve avoided many a sketchy hostel (that looks fine at first glance) by perusing reviews. Not only will this save you much travel angst but it will also afford you endless amusement.


**I am not sponsored or paid to promote any of these companies (I wish!) 
A special thanks to my friends Haley & Laura who contributed thoughts/suggestions to this list!

The Big Smoke – London!

“Sir, when a man is tired of London, he is tired of life; for there is in London all that life can afford.” – Samuel Johnson

I’m sure people will argue with me but for me, London wasn’t anywhere close to being the most aesthetically beautiful city I’ve been to in Europe. Nevertheless, this was one of the few cities I would seriously consider living in and definitely one of my favourites.

London is so vibrant. It’s full of eclectic, multicultural, wonderful people. It’s got amazing food from around the world and there’s always something to do. It’s gritty and real. It’s perennially busy – everyone always seems to have somewhere to be. It’s hard to be in London and not get caught up in the flow of this fantastic city.

What I really love about London is how well the “old” is integrated with the “new.” On any given block you could find a cathedral, a ramen shop and a fancy apartment. The city is a seamless blend of thousands of years of history and I found that incredibly fascinating and alluring. I spent most of the time walking around the city (logging almost 60 miles over the course of the ~4 days!) and I felt this really helped me get a feel for the city. I felt totally at home among the fast-moving, trench-coat clad population – I will definitely be back in the near future.

My favourite parts of the trip:

  • Fantastic Beasts Midnight Movie Release – this was the real reason I planned by London trip for the weekend I did. It was very nostalgic arriving a couple hours before midnight and seeing other Harry Potter fans dressed up in their house colours (some in some really fantastic costumes). It made me wish I brought some stuff with me!
  • Westminster Abbey – so much British history is tied up in this beautiful cathedral!! I especially enjoyed seeing the grave of Elizabeth I and walking around the Poet’s corner. I almost felt like the spirits of Chaucer, Dickens, Kipling, Tennyson and so many other great literary masters were walking with me.
  • Museums – there are not many places in the world where there are so many museums with such important collections of art accessible to the public. In exploring some of the many museums in London, I felt like I was traveling back in time.
  • Mamma Mia – what can be more fun than singing and dancing along to one of the best musicals of all time while surrounded by the women who are doing the exact same thing?!

Sweet:

– Most museums around the city are free!
– Food! Everyone says that Brits don’t know how to cook but I found that London has a much more diverse range of food offerings than most European cities and this was such a blessing.
– People – I’d heard that Brits weren’t necessarily the most talkative people but I had such pleasant / helpful interactions with everyone I met!
– Christmas decorations – from festive shop fronts to towering Christmas trees, London was absolutely magical this Christmas season.

Salty:

– Although museums are free, historic monuments (Westminster Abbey, St. Paul’s Cathedral, Tower of London) easily cost between £15 and £25. This was  very difficult to stomach – especially as a ‘starving student.’
– Traffic – drivers are aggressive!

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Itinerary:
**my favourites

Day 1:
– SoHo
– Fantastic Beasts Midnight Showing **

Day 2:
– Buckingham Palace
– Westminster Abbey**
– Palace of Westminster (Parliament)
– Big Ben
– National Gallery**
– Mamma Mia!**

Day 3:
– Hyde Park
– Kensington Gardens
– Victoria and Albert Museum

Day 4: 
– St. Paul’s Cathedral
– Millennium Bridge
– Tower Bridge
– Tate Modern**

Day 5: 
– British Museum**
– British Library**
– King’s Cross

Czech-in’ Out Prague

What can’t I say about Prague. This city had it all. For me, Prague was a crossroads between worlds. It combined the mystery and magic of Eastern Europe with a modern lifestyle.

The beautiful city of buildings almost a millennium old was vibrant and splendid. While I will fully admit that I have become enamored with almost every city I’ve traveled to on my exchange, Prague numbers among my favorites. It’s hard to describe exactly how I felt, watching the mist creep over the river, seeing snowflakes fall softly while crossing the bridge, looking out over the expanse of multicolored old buildings from the top of the city hall tower. All I can say is that I felt a yearning to be a part of this city. I felt incredibly, indescribably drawn to Prague.

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Prague was full of so many beautiful destinations (and so many fantastic rooftop views) but I have to admit that it was the libraries that inspired me the most. Shelves stacked with dusty old tomes…glittery illuminated covers…mysterious astronomical globes, ethereal hand painted ceilings…it was a literary dream come true.

Prague has something for everyone …incredible history, beautiful architecture, great shopping, rich food.

My parents took me to Prague when I was a little over a year old. Returning to it almost 20 years later (though I remembered nothing from the first time) was a magical experience. Sharing it with 2 amazing people made it even better!

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Sweet:

– Everything is so inexpensive – beer is cheaper than water!
Czech beer – the lighter beers were so easy to drink and yet so flavorful.
– Stunning scenery and architecture – Prague is fantastic for your IG aesthetic.
– “Ahoy” – this is literally how you say ‘hello’ and ‘goodbye’ and this gives me life.
– Breathtaking libraries

Salty:

– Not all signs are in English (but with Google Maps this isn’t a huge deal anyway).
– The food could be very heavy on occasion (no greens but still delicious)


Itinerary:
**my favorites

Day 1:
– Petrin Hill**
– Mini Eiffel Tower
– Mirror Hall
– Old Town
– Astronomical Clock**

Day 2:
– Dancing House
– Farmer’s Market**
– Wenceslav Square
– Old Town Hall & Tower
– Museum of Communism
– Prasna Brana

Day 3:
– Charles Bridge
– Lennon Wall**
– Prague Castle**
– St. Vitus Cathedral (+grave of St. Wenceslav)
– Prague Basilica
– Golden Lane
– Strahov Monastary and Library**

Day 4:
– Jewish Quarter (Old/New Synagogue, Pinkas Synagogue**, Spanish Synagogue)
– Clementinum National Library**

1 Suitcase, 1 Carry-on, 1 Personal

“Simplicity boils down to two steps: identify the essential, eliminate the rest.” – Leo Babatua

If you know me well, you’ll be be surprised that I somehow managed to bring everything in a one check-in bag (medium-large suitcase), one carry-on bag (medium duffle bag) and one personal item (a hiking backpack). I’ve even managed to fit everything into my room without a closet and without a dresser!

Although I did buy a few things while in Denmark, I accounted for the large majority of my necessities in my packing.

Here’s how I did it!

A Quick Summary of My Packing Strategy:

  • Pack neutral colours so that you can pair everything with anything (and so that you blend in with the Europeans).
  • Speaking of Europeans… they always dress better than you do so plan on dressing up from what you normally wear back home.
  • Pack different layers! This is especially important if you’re traveling during multiple seasons like I did.
  • Think and re-think every item. “When will I wear this?” “How many different outfits can I wear this with?” “Is this worth the space it will take up?”
  • Roll everything.
  • Keep accessories simple and to a minimum. You don’t want to have to keep track of too many valuables.
  • Don’t bring unnecessary electronics (ex. hair dryers and straighteners will burn out in Europe anyway – if you need it, buy it when you arrive).
  • Don’t bring unnecessary cosmetic products (I packed some of these anyway but at the very least don’t bring your shampoo, body wash, etc.).
  • Divide heavy items between bags. Airlines may charge extra for overweight baggage but they usually don’t check the weight of your carry-on.
  • Leave room for something special to make you feel at home. You’ll want it when you’ve been abroad a while and start to miss home. For me, it was (more than) a few great books.

In Hindsight, What I Would Leave Behind:

  • Swimsuit – thinking I would use this while in Denmark or traveling was overly ambitious
  • Business heels – fancy boots function just as well in any situation here
  • Casual jackets – unlike the PNW, Denmark makes a quick transition from warm summer to cold autumn and the mid-level jacket stage was skipped

What I Wish I’d Packed: 

  • Extra converters – they’re much cheaper back home
  • Extra makeup – although you can buy makeup here, it’s much cheaper to buy at home and some of my favourite brands don’t carry over (Stila!!)
  • Mid-level layers – sweaters, cute sweatshirts, etc. Basically anything I can layer to be warmer.

My Full Packing List (for anyone who still doubts me or who needs packing inspiration):
**I know it seems like I brought a lot of stuff but consider the fact that I had to dress for two seasons AND it still fit in 1 suitcase, 1 carry-on and 1 backpack***

Shoes:
1 x business-appropriate heels (neutral)
1 x heeled booties (black)
1 x Hunters (black)
1 x heeled sandals (tan)
2 x sneakers (white / adidas, black / nikes)
1 x Birks
*I’ve actually worn all of these already

Apparel:
Dresses
1
x shift dress (tan)
2 x black summer dresses
1 x t-shirt dress (striped)
1 x business-appropriate dress (black)

Tops
4
x sweaters (white, grey, striped, tan)
2 x button-ups (denim, white)
1 x lightweight workout jacket
12 x shirts (casual grey, casual white x2,  white fancy, black fancy x2, patterned crop, striped x2, workout x2)
2 x long-sleeve sleep shirts
2 x tanktops for layering (tan, black)

Bottoms
4 x jeans (dark wash, light wash, white, black)
1 x adidas sweats
2 x loose dress pants (black)
1 x leggings (black)
2 x workout shorts
2 x shorts (black, dark green)
1 x skirt (black denim)
1 x pajama bottoms

Outerwear
1 x Arcteryx rain jacket (red)
1 x Patagonia fleece pullover
1 x wool overcoat (grey)
2 x casual jackets (black, army green)
1 x loose blazer (maroon)
*you can figure out the undergarments, socks, etc. yourself

Electronics:
1 x laptop
1 x iPad Mini (I bought this for my trip and it’s proved amazing!)
1 x computer backup drive – important to anticipate crashes when in a foreign country
1 x cell phone
1 x camera
1 x toothbrush
1 x electronics converter (you can buy USB plug-ins anywhere so you really only need one converter)

Et cetera:
4 x scarves (2 winter, 2 summer)
1 x eyeglasses
1 x swimsuit
2 x earrings
2 x necklaces
1 x sunglasses
1 x purse (black)
1 x perfume
1 x everything makeup
1 x hair stuff (but you can buy this abroad)
1 x necessary medications 
8 x books (judge me, I don’t care)

Vacationing like Fitzgerald

“I have found that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.” – Mark Twain

A little less than two weeks ago, my friend Haley and I made a spur of the moment decision to spend two weeks traveling together. I’d mentioned that I wanted to visit Spain (a country where I speak the language, finally!) and wanted a travel buddy. Although traveling with someone you’ve only known for 2 months is pretty ambitious, we were excited to get going; besides, having a travel buddy means having a built-in photo taker! Pretty soon, we were booking tickets to France and Spain for the following week!

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We began our journey with a 3-night stay in Nice – the heart of the French Riviera. Getting off the plane and walking into the heart of Nice, I was blown away. Everywhere I looked I was bombarded with pastel-coloured buildings, palm trees and posh people. The balmy 20 degree weather (it didn’t last) and the backdrop of beautiful beach coastline didn’t hurt either.

To be completely honest, France has never been at the forefront of my travel bucket-list but when Haley and I were making travel plans, I thought it might be fun and asked my cousin for suggestions…I’m so glad that I did!

“See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories. Ask for no guarantees, ask for no security.” – Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451

After spending almost a week in the French Riviera and in Provence, I can easily understand why this part of the world was so beloved by some of the most influential talents in the world. The fact that people like the Fitzgeralds or Picasso summered here makes it even more appealing.

Not only is this part of France absolutely beautiful, the food is fantastic and the people are relaxed and friendly. At this time of year – the off season – nothing was crowded and we were able to meet the pace of the other (largely retiree-age) travelers. At one point we were asked “Are you 21 or 81?” but honestly it was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of a big city and just relax by the water.

Although we were traveling in the off-season, I actually enjoyed it! Some stores and restaurants were closed but all the cities we visited still had a fair number of people and I can’t imagine having to deal with the crowds during the late summer (their high season). Despite having to deal with thunderstorms and torrential downpours on certain days, we also got to experience 20 degree weather in October which would be unprecedented in Denmark.

I’m still alive and still walking around with a camera attached to my neck – here are some overall thoughts about Southern France as well as each city we visited:

Sweet:

– The colour! The pastels everywhere were so romantic.
– The French people! They get such a bad rap among other Europeans but Haley and I found it so refreshing how many French people engaged us in conversation despite their limited handle on English.
– A lot of museums were free or had discounts for students!
– One we got to the cities, it was very easy to travel everywhere by foot.

Salty:

– In many museums, public transit, signs, etc. everything was written in French.
– The French we encountered spoke English much less fluently than I thought they would. They try so hard anyway though that I loved them all the more for it.
– A local baker told us that the area was famous for having 300 days of sun each year but we got a fair share of the rainy days (thunderstorms and downpours!) during our stay

Nice
Nice

Overall impression: Nice

– The pastels!!!The intricate balconies!!! I basically walked around with my jaw open and my head staring up at the buildings around me
– Very slow-paced even though it was the biggest city we visited (besides Cannes)
– Love love loved the MOMAC museum – especially the current exhibitions!

Overall impression: Antibes

– Felt like walking into a fairy tale (the old town) or a Fitzgerald novel (because, duh)
– The locals were so fantastic!
– The yachts though…one was so large we thought it was a building at first
– Looking out over the ocean and seeing a mountain skyline breathed life back into me

Overall impression: Avignon

– This felt like the oldest city out of all the ones we visited
– The Papal Palace reminded me of my childhood vision of what a palace should be
– Everything was very concentrated around the palace but it was so interesting to learn about how Avignon evolved through the Great Schism, the Revolution and other historical events (awesome for history buffs like moi)

 


Itinerary:

  • Nice
    Old Town 
    Promenade des Anglais – originally built for the wealthy English
    Place Masséna – main city square

    Marche Aux Fleurs Cours Saleya – flower & artist market
    St. Nicholas Orthodox Cathedral – Russian cathedral
    Avenue Jean Médecin – main shopping street

    MOMAC – Museum of Modern Art and Contemporary Art
    Basilique Notre Dame – cathedral
    Musée Matisse + Roman Ruins 
  • Antibes
    Vieille Ville – Old Town
    Waterfront, Port –
    essentially luxury-yacht-central
    Le Nomade –
    really cool sculpture on waterfront

    Marche Provencal –
    local farmer’s market
    Picasso Museum – incredible collection donated by Picasso and his family
    Cannes – as in the film festival; day trip with dinner on the beach
  • Avignon
    Old town

    Palais des Papes – palace for French popes during Great Schism
    Jardin du Rocher des Domes – palace gardens
    Pont Saint-Benezet (Pont d’Avignon) – famous bridge featured in French nursery rhyme
    Notre Dame des Doms d’Avignon – Avignon cathedral, adjacent to palace

    Avignon Les Halles – local market

City Recap: Stockholm

Stockholm was one of the cities I’ve been most looking forward to visiting since arriving in Europe.

More than anything, I was looking forward to spending time with my friends Megan (on exchange in Stockholm) and Nicolle (meeting us from exchange in Vienna). While I’ve made some incredible friends in Copenhagen already, I’ve definitely missed my friends from home and getting to see them helped a little with the homesickness. Walking around, going on day trips, chatting about boys, going shopping, enjoying coffee in the cutest little cafes… part of me felt like I was right back in Vancouver.

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What I didn’t expect was how much being in Stockholm satisfied other aspects of homesickness. While the city looks nothing like home – filled with picturesque, multicolored buildings that are centuries old – there were certain elements that reminded me of the Pacific Northwest:

– Trees everywhere you go and along the coastlines (apparently Sweden is 80% forest!)
– Great food (I had sushi for the first time since coming to Europe and it satisfied my deepest cravings)
– Beautiful coastline almost everywhere you look! (Stockholm is surrounded by an archipelago of islands and is itself a group of 14 islands).
– Super-fit people walking and running everywhere
– Parks all around the city

I often hear Copenhagen and Stockholm compared but I actually found them to be pretty different. Stockholm’s population was much more diverse in comparison and the city seemed to have much more of an Eastern European influence – in architecture, colour, food, etc. There were fewer bikes than in Copenhagen and the people in Stockholm seemed to really take a relaxed approach at life (supposedly maternity leave is almost 2 years!).

I had the most wonderful time in Stockholm and the city was especially charming because I spent my time with Nicolle and Megan. Megan was the most amazing host – showing us the cutest cafes and expertly navigating the winding streets. I can’t wait to return the favour when both Megan and Nicolle take their turns visiting me in Copenhagen.

Favourite Places:

Wasa Museum: I was amused to learn that the 17th century warship housed in this museum sank within 20 minutes of its maiden voyage. It didn’t even make it out of the Stockholm Harbour. However, the entirety of the ship is housed within the museum and it’s an incredible sight to see – one of Sweden’s national treasures.
Gamla Stan: The narrow streets of Stockholm’s Old Town were filled with quaint restaurants and charming shops. You definitely can’t experience Stockholm without visiting Gamla Stan.
Archipelago / Vaxholm: This was definitely the most beautiful part of my trip. Taking the ferry through the many small islands that make up the archipelago was breathtaking; there’s nothing that lends a sense of serenity like open water.
Skansen: Walking around Stockholm’s open air museum, surrounded by traditional homes, schools, farms, and businesses, I could easily imagine what life in Sweden may have been like several hundred years ago. I personally found it interesting that the style of architecture was in some ways similar to what I’d seen previously at Plymouth Plantation (this makes sense if you think about the fact that immigrants to the US colonies came from all over Western Europe).
ABBA Museum: Some of you may roll your eyes at me here but this honestly was one of the highlights of my trip. This interactive museum caters to the ultimate ABBA fan through its offering of karaoke recordings, music videos, stage performances, etc. I spent the last 2 hours of my time in Stockholm singing and dancing my heart out to ABBA with Megan and it was spectacular.

Sweet:

– Diverse and delicious food
– Beautiful architecture – the colour was incomparable!
– Great shopping
– Water views no matter where you go!

Salty: 

– Museum entry prices
– Prices of everything in general (more expensive even than Copenhagen!)
– The City Hall was closed during the entirety of my visit for the weekend and then for a special event (it looks amazing though for anyone who is able to visit when it’s open)

#EmmaTips

– Buy a transport pass (I bought one for 3 days and it allowed me on the metro system, the buses and more!)
– Bring your student card – quite a few of the sites I visited had student discounts

My Stockholm Itinerary
** = highly recommend 

Day 1:
– Walk through Ostermalm & Hotorget (market and shopping areas)
– Vasa Museum** (original 17th century warship)
– Djur Gardens
– Gamla Stan (Old Town)**
– Esa Sushi

Day 2:
– Ferry through Archipelago to Vaxholm** (sails through the beautiful islands surrounding Stockholm)
Royal Palace Museums
Stockholm Cathedral (beautiful if you have time – close to the changing of the guard)
– Shopping in Sofo (‘hipster’ shopping area – nice selection of stores)
– Dinner in Gamla Stan

Day 3:
Kaffe Verkette (cute breakfast place courtesy of Megan – I highly recommend! )
City Hall
Nordiska Museum (an eye into Swedish cultural history over the years)
Skansen** (open air folk museum – similar concept to Plymouth Plantation)
– ABBA Museum**

 

Meet Charlie

Hi guys, meet Charlie! Or Charles – when he’s feeling particularly sophisticated. Who exactly is Charlie? Not my super foxy new Danish beau (unfortunately).

Charlie is my bike…that I bought off Danish Craigslist for ~$70. Although he’s about a hundred years old and a bit of a Charlie Brown Christmas Tree (hence the name), he’s quickly become one of my best friends here in Copenhagen.

When I arrived in the city, I quickly realized that the only way to get around was by bike. The city is completely flat and there are bike lanes on almost every street; there are even traffic lights for the bike lanes! The actual physical size of the city is quite small so biking is quite convenient and almost more efficient than most forms of public transit.

Picking up biking was actually a bit tricky for me. Back at home, I normally only ever bike for leisure; as such, I usually get on a bike, ride for a couple hours, enjoy the view, and get off. In Denmark, the constant stop-and-start while navigating traffic and aggressive local bikers makes it much more difficult than simply getting on a bike. There hasn’t been a day yet where I haven’t nearly fallen off at least once.

Another thing, there are so many rules to biking in Copenhagen! Here are some of them for anyone looking to visit:

  • When slowing down/stopping, put a hand straight up at a right angle.
  • When turning, hold your right or left hand out in the direction you are turning.

    proper-signals1-300x133
    http://cycleguide.dk/2010/05/hand-signals/
  • Stay in the right side of the bike lane unless passing.
  • You must have electric lights on the front and back of your bike after the street lights turn on (they have traffic cops to check this).
  • No right turns on a red light.
  • Always lock your bike! People get their bikes stolen all the time!
  • Keep a steady eye out for the people riding scooters (ie. Vespas) in the bike lane – apparently this is allowed although I don’t know why.

If you follow these rules, you will have as great a time biking around Copenhagen as Charlie and I do!

City Recap: Krakow

Beautiful beautiful Krakow…

Hello friends – if you haven’t been able to tell from the various media, I spent the last weekend in Krakow! What can I say about this city?

The first thing that struck me was the incredible architecture. Everywhere you go, you’re surrounded by buildings from as early as the 11th century with an unbelievable level of detail. The colours were especially vibrant and it was hard not to photograph everything as I was touring the city. Krakow is casually nonchalant; it houses some of the most beautiful architecture, some of the most incredible historical sights, and yet locals walk unconcerned through the streets as if all this splendor were an everyday thing… and for them, it is.

View of Krakow from Castle Tower
View of Krakow from Castle Tower

As an American, I found it difficult to adjust to the pace of the city. I’m used to a ‘go, go, go’ lifestyle where everything occurs at a fast place. Jump out of bed. Rush to classes. Run to catch a bus. Cram in some extra hours. At first glance, Krakow seemed to run at a lethargic pace despite the busy town center. After a day or two of curbing the urge to shove past people in the streets, cram in as many sights as I could in a day, or scarf down my food when I was hungry, I began to appreciate the slower-paced lifestyle of the Polish. Ignoring the need to constantly rush meant that I could mentally relax, appreciate the beauty that was surrounding me, savor the delicious Polish food, etc.

I’ve detailed a few of my favourite sites as well as some ‘sweet ‘n salty’ reflections about the city and some travel tips. Please forgive the length of this post – my excuse is that I loved Krakow so much that I couldn’t bring myself to write any less.

Krakow is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to and I can easily say that I left my heart there.

Favourite Places: 

Auschwitz & Birkenau: it’s impossible to put into words what it felt to visit this but all I can say is that for the rest of the day I felt sick to the stomach and didn’t eat much. It was a terrible thing to look at but I think it’s very important that everyone visit at some point in their lifetime so that we do not forget what happened.

Wieliczka Salt Mines: travel over 300 meters below the surface of the mine to see beautiful cathedrals, lagoons and statues dating back to 1200 AD (for the oldest). What’s incredible is that everything from the floor tiles to the chandeliers are made from salt and that all the carvings were made by amateurs – the miners themselves!

St. Mary’s Basilica: this is one of the most vibrant and most beautiful gothic cathedrals I have ever seen. The beautiful blue and gold ceilings set a perfect backdrop to the vivid walls and stained glass – I could have stared at the ceiling for hours.

– Wawel Cathedral and Castle: the heart of Poland. This, the royal center in the heart of Poland’s old capitol, is a must-see for anyone who, like me, loves learning about the history and culture of a city. Wawel will give you an insight into what drives the Poland that exists today.

Cloth Hall: lots of fun Polish-crafted items (some kitschy – some truly remarkable) and all at such inexpensive prices!

Sweet: 

Street music: whether it be someone playing a lively melody on an accordion or a melancholy tune on the violin, the streets were full with musicians creating a soundtrack to my visit.
Cafe culture: sit in the main plaza and sip your coffee, or eat a parfait, while listening to traditional music and enjoying the mellow evenings under a Polish sun.
Cheap food: where else can you buy a latte for under a dollar or buy a full meal (entrees, appetizers, dessert and drinks!) for less than $10?
Hostels: there were hostels around every corner and they were cheap (basically everything in Krakow was cheap)
– Cleanliness: there is almost no dirt or trash anywhere near the city and the buildings are beautifully maintained

Salty: 

Customer service: overall I found service to be slightly less warm than I am accustomed to (though not unfriendly).
Pushy company reps: whether it be for tour groups to main attractions, or city tours, or clubs, there were reps everywhere that were incredibly pushy and a little off-putting
Late nights: the main plaza was almost busier at 3am than at 3pm. Krakow definitely has a crazy night life (every day of the week!) and 70% of the people in my hostel would be back between 3 and 6am. Not my thing but if you enjoy the party life, this city is totally for you!

#EmmaTips

Most stores / restaurants take credit cards but you will need cash for various attractions that require smaller change.

DON’T spend on tours to various famous sights. Most “information” booths or even hotel/hostel staff have some sort of contract with tour companies and will NOT tell you the cheapest/easiest way to get to destinations despite. ALSO you’ll be shuttled around too quickly and won’t be able to go at your own pace. Instead, look at TripAdvisor for the quickest and cheapest way to visit destinations (usually public buses or trains).

Get to tourist attractions early (most of the city is up late partying and so attractions won’t be as crowded in the morning). Getting there earlier is also important because if you’re not traveling with a group tour (which I highly recommend avoiding), attractions will on occasion run out of tickets.

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