Vacationing like Fitzgerald

“I have found that there ain’t no surer way to find out whether you like people or hate them than to travel with them.” – Mark Twain

A little less than two weeks ago, my friend Haley and I made a spur of the moment decision to spend two weeks traveling together. I’d mentioned that I wanted to visit Spain (a country where I speak the language, finally!) and wanted a travel buddy. Although traveling with someone you’ve only known for 2 months is pretty ambitious, we were excited to get going; besides, having a travel buddy means having a built-in photo taker! Pretty soon, we were booking tickets to France and Spain for the following week!

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We began our journey with a 3-night stay in Nice – the heart of the French Riviera. Getting off the plane and walking into the heart of Nice, I was blown away. Everywhere I looked I was bombarded with pastel-coloured buildings, palm trees and posh people. The balmy 20 degree weather (it didn’t last) and the backdrop of beautiful beach coastline didn’t hurt either.

To be completely honest, France has never been at the forefront of my travel bucket-list but when Haley and I were making travel plans, I thought it might be fun and asked my cousin for suggestions…I’m so glad that I did!

“See the world. It’s more fantastic than any dream made or paid for in factories. Ask for no guarantees, ask for no security.” – Ray Bradbury, Fahrenheit 451

After spending almost a week in the French Riviera and in Provence, I can easily understand why this part of the world was so beloved by some of the most influential talents in the world. The fact that people like the Fitzgeralds or Picasso summered here makes it even more appealing.

Not only is this part of France absolutely beautiful, the food is fantastic and the people are relaxed and friendly. At this time of year – the off season – nothing was crowded and we were able to meet the pace of the other (largely retiree-age) travelers. At one point we were asked “Are you 21 or 81?” but honestly it was nice to get away from the hustle and bustle of a big city and just relax by the water.

Although we were traveling in the off-season, I actually enjoyed it! Some stores and restaurants were closed but all the cities we visited still had a fair number of people and I can’t imagine having to deal with the crowds during the late summer (their high season). Despite having to deal with thunderstorms and torrential downpours on certain days, we also got to experience 20 degree weather in October which would be unprecedented in Denmark.

I’m still alive and still walking around with a camera attached to my neck – here are some overall thoughts about Southern France as well as each city we visited:

Sweet:

– The colour! The pastels everywhere were so romantic.
– The French people! They get such a bad rap among other Europeans but Haley and I found it so refreshing how many French people engaged us in conversation despite their limited handle on English.
– A lot of museums were free or had discounts for students!
– One we got to the cities, it was very easy to travel everywhere by foot.

Salty:

– In many museums, public transit, signs, etc. everything was written in French.
– The French we encountered spoke English much less fluently than I thought they would. They try so hard anyway though that I loved them all the more for it.
– A local baker told us that the area was famous for having 300 days of sun each year but we got a fair share of the rainy days (thunderstorms and downpours!) during our stay

Nice
Nice

Overall impression: Nice

– The pastels!!!The intricate balconies!!! I basically walked around with my jaw open and my head staring up at the buildings around me
– Very slow-paced even though it was the biggest city we visited (besides Cannes)
– Love love loved the MOMAC museum – especially the current exhibitions!

Overall impression: Antibes

– Felt like walking into a fairy tale (the old town) or a Fitzgerald novel (because, duh)
– The locals were so fantastic!
– The yachts though…one was so large we thought it was a building at first
– Looking out over the ocean and seeing a mountain skyline breathed life back into me

Overall impression: Avignon

– This felt like the oldest city out of all the ones we visited
– The Papal Palace reminded me of my childhood vision of what a palace should be
– Everything was very concentrated around the palace but it was so interesting to learn about how Avignon evolved through the Great Schism, the Revolution and other historical events (awesome for history buffs like moi)

 


Itinerary:

  • Nice
    Old Town 
    Promenade des Anglais – originally built for the wealthy English
    Place Masséna – main city square

    Marche Aux Fleurs Cours Saleya – flower & artist market
    St. Nicholas Orthodox Cathedral – Russian cathedral
    Avenue Jean Médecin – main shopping street

    MOMAC – Museum of Modern Art and Contemporary Art
    Basilique Notre Dame – cathedral
    Musée Matisse + Roman Ruins 
  • Antibes
    Vieille Ville – Old Town
    Waterfront, Port –
    essentially luxury-yacht-central
    Le Nomade –
    really cool sculpture on waterfront

    Marche Provencal –
    local farmer’s market
    Picasso Museum – incredible collection donated by Picasso and his family
    Cannes – as in the film festival; day trip with dinner on the beach
  • Avignon
    Old town

    Palais des Papes – palace for French popes during Great Schism
    Jardin du Rocher des Domes – palace gardens
    Pont Saint-Benezet (Pont d’Avignon) – famous bridge featured in French nursery rhyme
    Notre Dame des Doms d’Avignon – Avignon cathedral, adjacent to palace

    Avignon Les Halles – local market

City Recap: Stockholm

Stockholm was one of the cities I’ve been most looking forward to visiting since arriving in Europe.

More than anything, I was looking forward to spending time with my friends Megan (on exchange in Stockholm) and Nicolle (meeting us from exchange in Vienna). While I’ve made some incredible friends in Copenhagen already, I’ve definitely missed my friends from home and getting to see them helped a little with the homesickness. Walking around, going on day trips, chatting about boys, going shopping, enjoying coffee in the cutest little cafes… part of me felt like I was right back in Vancouver.

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What I didn’t expect was how much being in Stockholm satisfied other aspects of homesickness. While the city looks nothing like home – filled with picturesque, multicolored buildings that are centuries old – there were certain elements that reminded me of the Pacific Northwest:

– Trees everywhere you go and along the coastlines (apparently Sweden is 80% forest!)
– Great food (I had sushi for the first time since coming to Europe and it satisfied my deepest cravings)
– Beautiful coastline almost everywhere you look! (Stockholm is surrounded by an archipelago of islands and is itself a group of 14 islands).
– Super-fit people walking and running everywhere
– Parks all around the city

I often hear Copenhagen and Stockholm compared but I actually found them to be pretty different. Stockholm’s population was much more diverse in comparison and the city seemed to have much more of an Eastern European influence – in architecture, colour, food, etc. There were fewer bikes than in Copenhagen and the people in Stockholm seemed to really take a relaxed approach at life (supposedly maternity leave is almost 2 years!).

I had the most wonderful time in Stockholm and the city was especially charming because I spent my time with Nicolle and Megan. Megan was the most amazing host – showing us the cutest cafes and expertly navigating the winding streets. I can’t wait to return the favour when both Megan and Nicolle take their turns visiting me in Copenhagen.

Favourite Places:

Wasa Museum: I was amused to learn that the 17th century warship housed in this museum sank within 20 minutes of its maiden voyage. It didn’t even make it out of the Stockholm Harbour. However, the entirety of the ship is housed within the museum and it’s an incredible sight to see – one of Sweden’s national treasures.
Gamla Stan: The narrow streets of Stockholm’s Old Town were filled with quaint restaurants and charming shops. You definitely can’t experience Stockholm without visiting Gamla Stan.
Archipelago / Vaxholm: This was definitely the most beautiful part of my trip. Taking the ferry through the many small islands that make up the archipelago was breathtaking; there’s nothing that lends a sense of serenity like open water.
Skansen: Walking around Stockholm’s open air museum, surrounded by traditional homes, schools, farms, and businesses, I could easily imagine what life in Sweden may have been like several hundred years ago. I personally found it interesting that the style of architecture was in some ways similar to what I’d seen previously at Plymouth Plantation (this makes sense if you think about the fact that immigrants to the US colonies came from all over Western Europe).
ABBA Museum: Some of you may roll your eyes at me here but this honestly was one of the highlights of my trip. This interactive museum caters to the ultimate ABBA fan through its offering of karaoke recordings, music videos, stage performances, etc. I spent the last 2 hours of my time in Stockholm singing and dancing my heart out to ABBA with Megan and it was spectacular.

Sweet:

– Diverse and delicious food
– Beautiful architecture – the colour was incomparable!
– Great shopping
– Water views no matter where you go!

Salty: 

– Museum entry prices
– Prices of everything in general (more expensive even than Copenhagen!)
– The City Hall was closed during the entirety of my visit for the weekend and then for a special event (it looks amazing though for anyone who is able to visit when it’s open)

#EmmaTips

– Buy a transport pass (I bought one for 3 days and it allowed me on the metro system, the buses and more!)
– Bring your student card – quite a few of the sites I visited had student discounts

My Stockholm Itinerary
** = highly recommend 

Day 1:
– Walk through Ostermalm & Hotorget (market and shopping areas)
– Vasa Museum** (original 17th century warship)
– Djur Gardens
– Gamla Stan (Old Town)**
– Esa Sushi

Day 2:
– Ferry through Archipelago to Vaxholm** (sails through the beautiful islands surrounding Stockholm)
Royal Palace Museums
Stockholm Cathedral (beautiful if you have time – close to the changing of the guard)
– Shopping in Sofo (‘hipster’ shopping area – nice selection of stores)
– Dinner in Gamla Stan

Day 3:
Kaffe Verkette (cute breakfast place courtesy of Megan – I highly recommend! )
City Hall
Nordiska Museum (an eye into Swedish cultural history over the years)
Skansen** (open air folk museum – similar concept to Plymouth Plantation)
– ABBA Museum**

 

Love Letter to My Sorority

“One woman is a tiny divine spark in a timeless sisterhood tapestry collective.” – Jan Porter

As most of you who attend UBC (or follow my social media) are aware, this past week, UBC Sororities held its yearly recruitment. This essentially means that yesterday I gained 35 new sorority sisters!

If you can’t tell from my numerous social media posts, I’ve been struck with a serious case of FOMO (fear-of-missing-out). Unluckily for them, my close friends and two littles have been dealing with the worst of it – my questions, my requests for snapchats and daily updates, etc. I knew when I left that I would miss everyone but the severity to which I did only really hit me this weekend.

So, I decided to take the time to examine what it was that I miss so much about being home among my sisters – what it is that makes being an Alpha Gam so significant to me.

You might be surprised to hear that my 50,000+ people campus feels small. This stands as a stark contrast to my experience on exchange where my life revolves around a growing but small network of people. At home I always have someone to hang out with, something to get involved with, someone to be inspired by. It’s amazing how a short discussion with a sister between classes – even just a smile and a wave – can make my day that much brighter. Being in a sorority means having a network and a support system to fall back on. Suddenly being separated from that network has shown me how important it has become.

Meeting Alpha Gams in Denmark!
Meeting Alpha Gams in Denmark!

Even so, Alpha Gam makes the world a smaller place. The fact that I can form fast friendships with Alpha Gams from different chapters  – and that there are so many consistencies in character – is impressive in and of itself. Being an Alpha Gam abroad means that there are sisters to visit all over the world and sisters to get travel tips from. There’s always someone forging the path ahead of you and that has been a comfort as I adjust to my life here.

For me, sisterhood has meant so many insignificant things adding up to something significant. This is what I miss most in my daily life. Having someone to sit next to in most of my classes. Study guides swapped before back-breaking exams. Someone to rant to. Textbooks sold extra-cheap. Shameless social media stalking of cute guys. Online shopping when we should be studying. Editing each other’s tinder profiles. Outfits examined and analyzed for everything from dates to formals to hiking trips to adventures. Obnoxious comments on social media. Coffee when you need it the most. Conversations about whether it’s too late at night to order pizza. Serious debates about the Bachelor. Movie nights crying over romcoms wondering why the men around us can’t be more like Channing Tatum (She’s the Man version, obviously).

“A sister is a gift to the heart, a friend to the spirit, a golden thread to the meaning of life.” – Isadora James

It’s true that I’ve made some of my best friends through Alpha Gam but I’ll be the first to admit that not everyone in my chapter is my best friend – even my close friend. What’s incredible is that despite this fact, I can get along with anyone in my chapter and never feel uncomfortable no matter who I’m with, or what situation I’m in. I know that if I needed support, any woman in my sorority would drop everything to be at my aid – I’ve experienced it first hand.

Unsurprisingly, Copenhagen isn’t all that diverse; I didn’t realize how important the diversity of my peers was until I missed it. It is one of the characteristics I love most about my chapter. There’s women from every walk of life and every background. Women studying to be businesswomen, teachers, scientists, artists. There’s never a shortage of perspective or differences of opinion. Since joining my sorority, I constantly examine myself to see if I’m living up to the standard set by the women around me – they are #goals and inspire me to be the best version of myself. Because of these women, I’ve become involved in things I didn’t think I would.

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My pledge class, 2013

My sisters fill so many roles in my life. They are friends, mentors, tutors. They are competitors, jesters, co-conspirators. They are mentees, fellow geeks, confidants, therapists, organizers, defendants, motivators, my cheer squad, and so much more.

Three years ago, I came to UBC as an eighteen year old girl – key world being girl. Everyone grows up when they go to university but I’ve been lucky enough to become a woman under the watchful and nurturing eyes of my sorority. It’s hard to believe that in about 8 months, I’ll be leaving behind the security of the friendships I’ve made. I know that who I am today has been shaped by the people I’ve been surrounded by these last few years – I’ll always have them when I need them. As I get closer and closer to graduation, I’ve never been prouder to be a sorority woman – an Alpha Gamma Delta woman.

To my best friends, my littles, my sisters reading this – I miss you all so so much and I love you even more. There’s nothing I look forward to more than finishing off my senior year surrounded by all of you. 

Meet Charlie

Hi guys, meet Charlie! Or Charles – when he’s feeling particularly sophisticated. Who exactly is Charlie? Not my super foxy new Danish beau (unfortunately).

Charlie is my bike…that I bought off Danish Craigslist for ~$70. Although he’s about a hundred years old and a bit of a Charlie Brown Christmas Tree (hence the name), he’s quickly become one of my best friends here in Copenhagen.

When I arrived in the city, I quickly realized that the only way to get around was by bike. The city is completely flat and there are bike lanes on almost every street; there are even traffic lights for the bike lanes! The actual physical size of the city is quite small so biking is quite convenient and almost more efficient than most forms of public transit.

Picking up biking was actually a bit tricky for me. Back at home, I normally only ever bike for leisure; as such, I usually get on a bike, ride for a couple hours, enjoy the view, and get off. In Denmark, the constant stop-and-start while navigating traffic and aggressive local bikers makes it much more difficult than simply getting on a bike. There hasn’t been a day yet where I haven’t nearly fallen off at least once.

Another thing, there are so many rules to biking in Copenhagen! Here are some of them for anyone looking to visit:

  • When slowing down/stopping, put a hand straight up at a right angle.
  • When turning, hold your right or left hand out in the direction you are turning.

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    http://cycleguide.dk/2010/05/hand-signals/
  • Stay in the right side of the bike lane unless passing.
  • You must have electric lights on the front and back of your bike after the street lights turn on (they have traffic cops to check this).
  • No right turns on a red light.
  • Always lock your bike! People get their bikes stolen all the time!
  • Keep a steady eye out for the people riding scooters (ie. Vespas) in the bike lane – apparently this is allowed although I don’t know why.

If you follow these rules, you will have as great a time biking around Copenhagen as Charlie and I do!

Welcome to My Crib

Now that I’ve introduced you to this beautiful city, I want to welcome you to ‘my crib.’ I’m one of those people who pictures my dream home and makes it a reality through my Pinterest (shameless plug – check it out, it’s pretty amazing if I do say so myself).

When I walked into this apartment, I felt like I was walking into my Pinterest dream. The location, the decor, the aesthetic…it was everything I’d ever imagined in an apartment and I couldn’t believe I got to live here for the next couple months. I still can’t believe it!

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Finding housing in Copenhagen is actually very difficult (more difficult than Vancouver even). Copenhagen Business School (CBS) offers approximately 350 spots for 850 exchange students and I unfortunately was unable to get housing through CBS. Rentals are very expensive and hard to find (if you have trouble, housing-related facebook pages might be your best bet). A lot of people I know ended up renting AirBnbs for the duration of their stays.

I was incredibly lucky that my roommate, a mutual family friend, had a room free in this beautiful apartment and let me stay with him in one of the most beautiful and convenient areas of the city – Frederiksberg. I’m so grateful and so excited to be able to stay here and I couldn’t be in better hands than those of my roommates who are making sure I get acclimated and am staying out of trouble.

 

Welcome to København!

I’ve been in Copenhagen now for a good couple weeks (my one month anniversary is coming up! ) and although it was love at first sight, it has also been an adjustment process.

I’ve been really lucky to have made some really amazing friends so quickly. These girls make me laugh and it’s so heartening to know that girls from all over the world (US, Singapore, Netherlands, Germany, Canada) can have so much in common.  Where my friends – also exchange students – are as clueless as I am, I’ve had my roommates Frederik and Ilyas to help fill in the gaps and expose me to Danish culture

Speaking of cultural differences, there are actually a lot of similarities between Denmark and home but also a lot of subtle differences. Beyond the obvious language difference, my life has fallen into an easy pattern that is very similar to my daily life back in Vancouver.

Cultural Adjustments:

  • Coffee is expensive – easily $6/cup ! Nothing like expensive coffee to make me miss being able to grab Tim’s on the way to class every morning.
  • Speaking of expensive, FOOD IS SO EXPENSIVE! Even though it isn’t expected to tip, going out is unbelievably pricey compared even to Vancouver!
  • Good Asian food is so hard to find I’m already getting cravings. Missing being able to get cheap (and yummy) sushi on every corner – the fact that tofu isn’t commonly sold in grocery stores is a sin. Being vegetarian here would be pretty tough.
  • People bike everywhere – I love it! It’s often faster to get places in Copenhagen by bike than by public transit (but beware the aggressive Danish bikers and know your road rules).
  • Danes tend to be very polite and friendly but also shy and a bit hard-to-get-to-know in comparison to my North American counterparts. However, it seems to me that if you manage to break through the exterior, you will have some lifelong friends.
  • People rush less and enjoy life more. I’m trying to adapt this into my lifestyle but it’s a daily struggle not to push my way past slow walkers in the street.

I’m also into my second week of school now and have noticed quite a few differences in the methods of teaching:

  • Classes are much larger than they typically are back home. There’s only one section per course so everyone that’s taking a class is put into one lecture.
  • Classes also overlap! Apparently it’s typical but I’m still getting used to running between classes.
  • Campus is spread out across the city – sometimes I’ll even take the train between classes.
  • Less time is spent on classwork while more time is spent on readings. Not sure how I feel about this.
  • I miss UBC’s course structure quite a bit – probably because I’ve adjusted to it over the years – but it’s interesting learning from a different perspective.
Nyhavn
Nyhavn

Anyway, lots of love to everyone back home. I miss you like crazy but don’t worry about me – I’m loving life and adjusting to the differences…one impossible to pronounce word at a time.

City Recap: Krakow

Beautiful beautiful Krakow…

Hello friends – if you haven’t been able to tell from the various media, I spent the last weekend in Krakow! What can I say about this city?

The first thing that struck me was the incredible architecture. Everywhere you go, you’re surrounded by buildings from as early as the 11th century with an unbelievable level of detail. The colours were especially vibrant and it was hard not to photograph everything as I was touring the city. Krakow is casually nonchalant; it houses some of the most beautiful architecture, some of the most incredible historical sights, and yet locals walk unconcerned through the streets as if all this splendor were an everyday thing… and for them, it is.

View of Krakow from Castle Tower
View of Krakow from Castle Tower

As an American, I found it difficult to adjust to the pace of the city. I’m used to a ‘go, go, go’ lifestyle where everything occurs at a fast place. Jump out of bed. Rush to classes. Run to catch a bus. Cram in some extra hours. At first glance, Krakow seemed to run at a lethargic pace despite the busy town center. After a day or two of curbing the urge to shove past people in the streets, cram in as many sights as I could in a day, or scarf down my food when I was hungry, I began to appreciate the slower-paced lifestyle of the Polish. Ignoring the need to constantly rush meant that I could mentally relax, appreciate the beauty that was surrounding me, savor the delicious Polish food, etc.

I’ve detailed a few of my favourite sites as well as some ‘sweet ‘n salty’ reflections about the city and some travel tips. Please forgive the length of this post – my excuse is that I loved Krakow so much that I couldn’t bring myself to write any less.

Krakow is one of the most beautiful cities I have ever been to and I can easily say that I left my heart there.

Favourite Places: 

Auschwitz & Birkenau: it’s impossible to put into words what it felt to visit this but all I can say is that for the rest of the day I felt sick to the stomach and didn’t eat much. It was a terrible thing to look at but I think it’s very important that everyone visit at some point in their lifetime so that we do not forget what happened.

Wieliczka Salt Mines: travel over 300 meters below the surface of the mine to see beautiful cathedrals, lagoons and statues dating back to 1200 AD (for the oldest). What’s incredible is that everything from the floor tiles to the chandeliers are made from salt and that all the carvings were made by amateurs – the miners themselves!

St. Mary’s Basilica: this is one of the most vibrant and most beautiful gothic cathedrals I have ever seen. The beautiful blue and gold ceilings set a perfect backdrop to the vivid walls and stained glass – I could have stared at the ceiling for hours.

– Wawel Cathedral and Castle: the heart of Poland. This, the royal center in the heart of Poland’s old capitol, is a must-see for anyone who, like me, loves learning about the history and culture of a city. Wawel will give you an insight into what drives the Poland that exists today.

Cloth Hall: lots of fun Polish-crafted items (some kitschy – some truly remarkable) and all at such inexpensive prices!

Sweet: 

Street music: whether it be someone playing a lively melody on an accordion or a melancholy tune on the violin, the streets were full with musicians creating a soundtrack to my visit.
Cafe culture: sit in the main plaza and sip your coffee, or eat a parfait, while listening to traditional music and enjoying the mellow evenings under a Polish sun.
Cheap food: where else can you buy a latte for under a dollar or buy a full meal (entrees, appetizers, dessert and drinks!) for less than $10?
Hostels: there were hostels around every corner and they were cheap (basically everything in Krakow was cheap)
– Cleanliness: there is almost no dirt or trash anywhere near the city and the buildings are beautifully maintained

Salty: 

Customer service: overall I found service to be slightly less warm than I am accustomed to (though not unfriendly).
Pushy company reps: whether it be for tour groups to main attractions, or city tours, or clubs, there were reps everywhere that were incredibly pushy and a little off-putting
Late nights: the main plaza was almost busier at 3am than at 3pm. Krakow definitely has a crazy night life (every day of the week!) and 70% of the people in my hostel would be back between 3 and 6am. Not my thing but if you enjoy the party life, this city is totally for you!

#EmmaTips

Most stores / restaurants take credit cards but you will need cash for various attractions that require smaller change.

DON’T spend on tours to various famous sights. Most “information” booths or even hotel/hostel staff have some sort of contract with tour companies and will NOT tell you the cheapest/easiest way to get to destinations despite. ALSO you’ll be shuttled around too quickly and won’t be able to go at your own pace. Instead, look at TripAdvisor for the quickest and cheapest way to visit destinations (usually public buses or trains).

Get to tourist attractions early (most of the city is up late partying and so attractions won’t be as crowded in the morning). Getting there earlier is also important because if you’re not traveling with a group tour (which I highly recommend avoiding), attractions will on occasion run out of tickets.

Meet ‘n Greet

Welcome to my blog – Emma on Exchange! I am so excited to be sharing my Denmark exchange experience with you. I have been looking forward to this for many months now.

Why Denmark?

I’ve been hearing about Denmark for ages from my best friend Marcia (hi Marcia!) and for years have been wanting to visit ‘the happiest city in the world.’ Additionally, Denmark is one of the most sustainable places in the world and I want to learn what I can from it.

A little bit about me:Drinks on the Beach, Cannes
– I am a Seattle-ite finishing up my fourth year at UBC studying marketing and sustainability.
– I am a food aficionado.
– I love classical literature and will never travel without a book.
– I am a Harry Potter nerd (and could debate Snape with you for hours).

I’m thrilled have the opportunity and the space to share my exchange and travel-related thoughts with you. I hope you enjoy my future ramblings, travel reflections, book reviews and thoughts.

Cheers,
Emma

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