
Last week Arashiyama was the setting for the Chi-nomi-Shiri-Kamuy-nomi, an Ainu ceremony of prayer to the gods and blessing of prayer sticks. The ceremony was led by the local Chikabumi Ainu.

Last week Arashiyama was the setting for the Chi-nomi-Shiri-Kamuy-nomi, an Ainu ceremony of prayer to the gods and blessing of prayer sticks. The ceremony was led by the local Chikabumi Ainu.

Here are the foods prepared for the gods.

Here Ota-sensei (L) blesses the new prayer sticks with Kawamura Kenichi (R), the leader of the Chikabumi. The sticks are called Inaw. The inaw are carved into birds who will then fly the prayers to the chosen gods (lIwasaki-Goodman & Nomoto, 1999, p. 223, in Ainu: Spirit of a Northern People, Dubrueil & Fitzhugh, eds.).

Here are the opening prayers conducted inside the chise. The male elders and other respected male leaders said prayers, while the leader’s wife poured the sake. I didn’t see the entire ceremony because my son decided to shout his own prayers out loud and so I thought it best he do that outside.

Here is a picture of the smaller chise (traditional Ainu house) on the grounds of the park at Arashiyama (Storm mountain).

This piece was made by the sculptor, Mikako Tomotari, in dedication to the Ainu lands submerged by the Hokkaido government-sponsored dam in the Nibutani area of Hokkaido. Her comments and then comments on her comments (in English) are here.
She had wanted to throw it into the waters, so that only by the elimination of the dam could it be revealed to our eyes.
I think I read somewhere else that it was set near the damn instead, though.
Her sculpture demands that we re-think how so-called technological developments impact our land and the people who live on it (though, to be honest, no one really knows the benefits of this particular dam, besides the construction company and maybe the pockets of a few politicians, since its reason to exist–a proposed industrial park–never came to be).
In a similar way, I think I am trying to use the classroom as a space for some Ainu people to meet and speak with the primarily wajin university students. By listening to other ways of seeing, we have the chance to deepen and expand our ideas about how to live and why we live.
This week we watched the film, BARAKA, in class, which also celebrates the beauty of our world and at the same time unites us as fellow humans trying to make a life as best we can for our short time here. One student said he understood better how Japanese Zen Buddhism must seem odd for others not from Japan, and he imagined it must be how he felt when watching the scene in Bali of the Javanese men moving and singing in synchronicity.
For me, I realized again that the power of seeing up close the eyes and faces of other humans, and even the faces of animals (in the film there is the close-up of the snow monkeys in Japan, and one old monkey in the hot spring meditates, with his eyes slowly closing, just as any human would). In these unedited close-ups I feel the connection between us, no matter how different we may seem superficially.
Maybe our world leaders need to watch this film for 3-days-straight, without food or water. Would they then re-emerge more aware of the world’s interconnectedness, more in-tune as to how a death–even if they wish to soften it by calling it ‘collateral damage’– happening way over in another country due to their policies impacts the entire planet, impacts everyone’s quality of life? We are all diminished by the deaths of war. Do they care how their decisions design so many deaths and so many miseries? I think they will all realize it someday, preferably long before their eyes glaze over in that last moment of awareness, and I hope they can alter their ways.
I sound a tad grim perhaps, but I am not feeling grim. I just wish for more sanity and love. Today, not tomorrow!
This is the first book-length work in English I’ve found to comprehensively explain Wajin-Ainu power relations: Siddle, Richard. (1996). Race, Resistance, and the Ainu of Japan. London: Routledge.
And what a book! It details the complexities and contradictory historical records about the Wajin conquest of Hokkaido and the impact on the Ainu, who are Hokkaido’s (or Ainu Mosir’s) Indigenous people.
I am enjoying learning about this history because it is so important for me as a member of Japanese society to know this, especially since I hope to have my students (future public school teachers) learn these truths, too. Right now there are only 2 sentences about the Ainu in the just-released 2006 mandatory history textbooks of compulsory education (Thanks to Kitty Dubreuil for showing me that!). One of those sentences is in a footnote. This is deplorable, but not surprising, given the myth of hegemony the government steadfastly defends to this day.
Many parallels between the Wajin’s systematic and socially constructed marginalization of the Ainu and the colonial systems marginalizing other Indigenous peoples in the world can be found.
For example, when Wajin first entered Ainu Mosir, they were mostly men who were very poor and often exiled convicts. Ainu women were often raped after their men were sent to work as forced labor (at gunpoint) for the fish fertilizer work camps very far from their homes. The children of these violent encounters were considered Ainu and were brought up by their mothers alone.
Stories like these fill me with anger, but more than that, fill me with the determination to make sure my students know this sad history and not cloak Hokkaido history as a ‘pioneer’ history of brave men entering ‘no man’s land.’ The Ainu were here and are still here, and the silence needs to be broken via inclusive history education in the schools. I can’t understand how the Japanese government can get away with such silences and lies. I guess all power systems pick and choose a history suitable to maintaining their privileged status, just look how the current US president stubbornly sits on his throne of thorny lies.
I recommend this book to all folks interested in Japan. Siddle has done a good job at revealing the dirty little (and big) secrets of the Wajin power games.
Today Ota-sensei, an Ainu language teacher, came to my cross-cultural class to deliver his version of Hokkaido/Ainu history, Part II.
Although I think what he said had a lot of importance for the students, I was dismayed to see most of them doing other schoolwork, sending text messages on their cell phones, or whispering with their friends. They seemed bored, much like they do in any lecture setting, which is why I rarely lecture…I hate teaching to sleeping brains.
This lack of interest in Ainu history may be just a sign of an overall disinterest in history (It’s true I have been told often that Japanese students hate history because of the dry lecture-format and due to all the ‘facts’ they had to memorize when studying for the university entrance exams), but my heart was heavy and I could do little during his talk to wake them up, but I did touch some of the whisperers on the back and give them a resigned look…but that didn’t work well, as soon they were back to talking about the upcoming weekend, the dentist visit, or their part-time jobs.
But still, at least a small part of their hearing may have taken in some of the information, and that is better than nothing at all, I hope. Now, my dear readers, I have to turn to work on my paper, which has a structure up finally, but no plaster on its timbers yet. I am not motivated to write though because I am exhausted–my son has the penchant for resisting sleep lately, which makes me sleep-deprived. I don’t have the luxury that he has to sleep two hours at nursery school, the lucky boy!
Radio Archive of Ainu Language Lessons
Sapporo TV Radio hosts an Ainu language class with accompanying textbook (which you can order) every Sunday morning, from 7:05am to 7:20am, and repeated Saturday evenings from 11:15-11:30pm. They also have the lessons archived on Real Player audio files since it began in 1999.
A look at one lesson (November 20) showed the example of the grammar “Where are you heading/going?” I found the example answer they will teach quite strange:
Ex.: Where are you heading/going?
Answer: We are heading/going to a splendid (beautiful) village.
I don’t know about you, but this sounds not only awkward to me in English, but also in Japanese–I am not prone to say I am going to a splendid village, are you? See the below script:
1 エノン エソイエネ?
enon e=soyene?
どこへ あなたが外へ出る
(=どこへあなたは出かけるの?)
Where are you going?
2 ピリカ コタン オレン パイエアン。
pirika kotan or en paye=an.
立派な 村 のところへ 相手を含む私達は行く
(=立派な村へ私達は行く。)
We are going to a splendid village.
I need to see if all of the lessons are as arcane as this. It sounds like we are learning to speak ‘fairy’, not Ainu. Could this language lesson actually be just another act of ‘othering’ conducted by the Wajin (mainstream Japanese)? It seems to be teaching the Ainu language as an archaic, lost romantic language. True, few native speakers remain, but does this lesson give their language justice? I don’t know the answer yet; this site was rather disappointing to see at first glance….
In my cross-cultural seminar this past Friday, I had the privilege of having Chisato “Kitty” Dubreuil give my students a slideshow/talk comparing Ainu and Native American political histories.
She is the only active Ainu scholar who is an expert in Ainu art history, Japanese art history, and Native American & First Nations art history. She has served as a co-curator of the wonderful Smithsonian exhibit on the Ainu people, was editor of a book (scroll down) that complements the exhibit with much more detail, and she also recently published a book on the work of the contemporary Ainu artist/sculptor, Bikky Sunazawa.
Her talk served as an excellent introduction into a viewpoint my students never had an opportunity to learn in the Japanese school system.
After her talk, her husband, David, of Huron and Mohawk descent, and the Chikabumi Ainu leader, Kenichi Kawamura, and the tonkori musician, Oki Kanou, all added their opinions on what they see as the main concerns facing Ainu people today.
Issues mentioned covered topics such as legal actions to revise the Ministry of Education’s textbook, land and human rights, the challenge of mixing new art with the traditional, continued school, marriage, and employment discrimination, as well as the silencing of Ainu voices in mainstream culture.
Chisato showed the students the 2006 textbook. She read the two bits about the Ainu in the book. The Ainu appear as part of a footnote on one page and then again in a sentence about their involvement as trade partners with Japan. She told the students, “Suddenly the Ainu appear in the textbook, from nowhere.” And I could add that they just as instantly disappear in mainstream society, without any recognition of the very long, rich history & culture they still have.
I hope that this event will mark the beginning of my students’ search for a more inclusive truth about Japan as a multi-ethnic nation.
I am finishing up a book by John Lie (2001), called “Multi-ethnic Japan.” I plan on using much of its argument to teach Identity and Culture here at Hokkaido U of Education. Fascinating stuff, and I learned much about the hybrid character of Japanese culture, or rather it opened my eyes to what is already all around me!
His main argument is this: Just as the US power base and government “created” and propagated the idea of a unified “white race,” which effectively pulled into one group diverse ethnicities such as Italian, Irish, Russian, and Jewish peoples, further erasing the many ethnic identities inside each of those groups, etc.), and just as the French government tried to sell the idea of a unified Francophone nation in its education system, so, too, have the Japanese government and intellectuals attempted to erase the heterogeneous ethnic makeup of Japan, teaching Japan to the masses via education and media as “One nation, one race, one language.” And they have done a very thorough job. I haven’t met many folks who don’t think of Japan as a singular, special, and unified people.
What surprised me most is the fact that this idealized idea of Japan as a homogenous people really didn’t solidify until post WWII, and mostly in the mid-1960’s. Of course, western Japanologists helped support this lie, too.
I had been taught this myth before I came to Japan and had believed it during my first years in Japan, even though I knew firsthand of the presence of Okinawan, Ainu, Burakumin, Korean, Chinese, Filipino, Brazilian, Iranian, Peruvian, African, Russian, Indian, Bangladeshi and Canadian, US, Australian and numerous European peoples, etc. living in Japan. Basically, all nations’ peoples are represented here, although this author argues they are primarily concentrated in the larger cities.
But even in our small city in northern Hokkaido, we have Filipino, Australian, German, Russian, Swedish, Iranian, Indian, Ainu, US, Taiwanese, Chinese, Korean, and Canadian peoples, and an array of multiethnic peoples, so I am not sure of this emphasis on ethnic richness as being only in the larger cities. Rather, I think it more that, just as most Wajin Japanese live in large cities, so do the ethnicities. For some reason, I blindly ignored these facts of diversity and saw Japan as a remarkably singular nation, culturally and racially. I think I felt the older groups (the Ainu, the Okinawan, the Korean and the Chinese people had more or less disappeared into the Japanese cultural soup, and were, by and large, Japanese. And then, the rest of the ‘newer’ immigrants were here temporarily, soon to return to their homelands (and that included me)).
It wasn’t until I started reading maybe ten years ago about the inane and problematic concept of ‘race’ that I began to question deeply my own country’s racialized language, and then, later, to turn a clearer lens to my view of Japan. As you know, race is not a scientific categorization of peoples: it is based primarily on assumptions made by physical characteristics and cultural behavior, the former argument is nebulous and contradictory as a designator (for example, dark or pale gradations of skin can occur in many peoples as can curly or straight hair, and why aren’t types of toenails included?;-)), and the reason people developed different ‘looks’ had to do with the geographical fact that, way back then, people didn’t travel or intermarry often (and they still don’t, really!) and the latter argument depends on one’s upbringing and society. Scientists have proven, via genetic testing, that we humans are the same: there isn’t enough deviation in anyone’s DNA to qualify one group of people as another ‘race.’ We easily say that a sparrow and an eagle are both birds, but we can’t say the same of different human beings! Maybe not the best analogy, since those two birds likely have significant DNA differences, and we humans simply don’t!….Yet the sad ability of societies to persist in classifying humans into different races continues ad nauseum, and even I find myself falling into the trap at times…hard not to, with all the indoctrination going on.
Anyway, that was a little rant, back to the point. Next time you hear someone talk of Japan as an Island nation that was closed off for 300 years, hence forming a special unified peoples, remember this: Many nations are ‘island nations’ and historically-speaking, being an island nation actually aided the intermixing of cultures (this is how the Wajin got to Japan in the first place! This is how they adopted Chinese philosophies, religions and a writing system, Korean pottery, and Portuguese bread!). Also, the Tokugawa Shogunate did not close off outsiders for 300 years; they only centralized the control of the ports. Trade with and travel to foreign nations continued throughout that time, and many ideas and goods continued to be brought in under Tokugawa rule. These are the two most prevalent arguments I hear by Japanese (and others) to argue the uniqueness (and often superiority) over other cultures, but these arguments cannot hold true.
Furthermore, from the Meiji (1868) era on up until the end of WWII, the successive Japanese governments aggressively sought empire expansion and attempted to force assimilation of the so-called conquered peoples of the Ainu Mosir, Ryuku kingdom (Okinawa), Taiwan, Manchuria, Korea, the Philippines, etc. by outlawing their customs, languages and teaching Japanese in the Japan-run schools. They even tried to control their diet and way of dress. Thus, during this long imperialist and expansionist stage (inspired by the western nations, by the way), many ethnicities were encouraged to become ‘Japanese’, were designated legal Japanese citizens (though prejudice and discrimination were the norm, of course) and inter-marriages were encouraged. From this alone, we can see that Japan is and never was a ‘pure’ blood nation, no more than the Britain is or was.
This is a very important book for me because it validates the multi-ethnic character of Japan and opens the possibilities for more acceptance and knowledge about other ethnicities. I could go on and on, but, just read the book, okay? Now the difficult task for me: how do I teach this without students feeling attacked– from seeing it as a troublesome, uncomfortable, identity-breaking truth? I hope to teach it so that they see the truth as a saving grace, as a reason for celebration, culminating in a richer national identity. Wish me luck.
I was traveling all over Japan last week, not able to
participate much in the class forum. But I
did try the chat bots as well and was not impressed with
them. Darth Vader as a chat bot seemed annoying and very
stupid to me, I wonder if he ever guesses correctly?
My thought he was to discover was ‘humility’ and he guessed
‘ivory.’ I guess it rhymed at least:-). It could be start
of a poem.
Eliza was an interesting bot and for someone who can’t
afford a real therapist, she might serve to help someone
express his/her thoughts/feelings, albeit in a contrived
way, and not always useful. It seemed odd to call her a
her, when actually it seemed more like a conversation
with one’s self in a sense.
I wanted to share a bit on two things I learned over the
week in my travels.
1)I had an interview at a modern technology uni here in
Japan and saw blips of an emotional division between
so-called creative types (art, intercultural, creative
thinking skills–where I exist comfortably) and the
so-called hard science types (AI, robotics, fuzzy logic,
physics–where I’ve gained some comfort due to the studies
we are doing at UBC–Vancouver).
Oh, most people were not divisive at all, thank goodness.
Yet odd to say, I couldn’t quite see much logic in such
cold delineations myself. Certainly, different
skills/protocol are needed for success in these fields,
but many similar thinking processes are shared, too. I
argued the need for interdisciplinary work, which the
uni ‘officially’ is aiming for, but it seems there might
be resistance from the a few conservative hard-science
folks–a sort of visceral disdain (dislike?) for the
arts. I won’t know if I got the job until late July, but
my guess is that it hinges on whether I could convince
the conservative faction to understand my belief that
without creative thinking and a broadminded approach
in the study of technology and science, the cutting-edge
research could never occur. I don’t know if I won them
over, sigh, but that’s on me, not them.
2) At a Tokyo conference, I asked an Ainu activist, Koji Yuki,
about the new supplementary government-sponsored textbooks,
which spend 99% of the pages to ancient history of the Ainu
and 1.5 pages to recent activism and modern (ala 1980’s) life
of the Ainu. I asked how he felt of that sort of representation
of a living culture. He said it was odd for him to see
how the Japanese often portray the culture an antiquated
and/or dead/dying when he lives it every day. He said
growing up only one line was in his textbook: “The Ainu
were once in Hokkaido.” He saw the 1.5 pages as an
improvement. He said something powerful to me then:
rather than worrying about the info taught in textbooks,
he said he hoped that eventually children would learn
naturally from their parents and community the truth
about the Ainu and their living culture. This he saw as
his work. An admirable aim…

The Ainu carve willow branches in particular ways to honor the many spirits (Kamuy) of the world. This prayer stick is for Happiness, which surprsied me. I had never heard of the Ainu honoring concepts (non-living things), but then again, maybe happiness is an entity to them? That is a fascinating possibility…

This prayer stick is for the Earth god

This prayer stick is for the Mountain god.

This prayer stick is for the Water god.

A woman helping to build a traditional Ainu house, called a chise: the walls are made with sa-sa (bamboo) leaves. I think the “sa-sa” name matches the way these bamboo grasses sound when the wind blows through them.

Students putting on ‘Ainu’ dress (actually made for the tourists to try on).
Tuesday my world culture seminar (all four students!) went to the nearby Ainu Memorial Museum run by the Kawamura family. We learned the Ainu language has over 80 words for bear, an animal who is probably the most important spirit-god in the Ainu religion. For example, there’s a word for a one-year old bear, a two-year old bear, etc.
My cynical self looked up the number of synonyms for ‘lie’ in English the Merriam-Webster Online Dictionary: 37. A cultural gauge or coincidence? Hmmmm….ask the US president, as he practices all 37 versions….

A small painting I did while in Crosby, Minnesota (my dad’s hometown) back in 2001, a few weeks before I met my lovely luv.
I used this image as paradise for the last hyperlink in a poem I wrote in the voice of an old Ainu woman, but I am not content yet, suspect I exoticize her voice too much, when what I wanted to do was empathize…needs work. I did this for my Text & Technologies class, which, BTW, was a lot of fun. I just wish I had more know-how, so I could make things look less simplistic. Step-by-step…
You can see the poem (and other stuff) here.
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