Mole Coloradito, a traditional mole from Oaxaca

The Mole Coloradito (red mole) with Chochoyotes (dumplings) was a complex layered sauce made of spices and chocolate, and incredibly rich.

  • the chicken was boiled ahead of time with onion and garlic; some of the broth was used when all the chiles were blended.
  • the Mole Coloradito began by lightly toasting the dried chiles on a grill to add ‘texture’. The chiles we used were ancho chiles and guajillo chiles.

    toasting chiles for the Mole Coloradito

    toasting chiles for the Mole Coloradito

  • chocolate ‘pucks’, abuelita-style. This sugared, slightly gritty chocolate is added to the mole sauce.

    the sugared gritty chocolate that is added to the Mole Coloradito

    the sugared gritty chocolate that is added to the Mole Coloradito

  • the sexy sheen of mole coloradito once all the ingredients are added

    the mole coloradito has a sheen once all the ingredients are added

    the mole coloradito has a sheen once all the ingredients are added

  • Chef Rossana prepping the masa dough for the Chochoyotes.

    Chef Rosanna demonstrates how to prepare the masa

    Chef Rosanna demonstrates how to prepare the masa

  • the basic masa dough has masa, claro! plus crushed garlic, a pinch or two of epazote and salt added to it. The dough is rolled into long tubes, sliced and formed into small balls in your hand.

    making the dumplings

    prepping the dumplings from the masa dough

  • the balls are flattened and dimpled, and now they are Chochoyotes, Mexican dumplings.
the dumpling ready to pop into the pot of boiling water

the dumpling ready to pop into the pot of boiling water

      • the dimpled Chochoyotes are popped into boiling water. When they float to the surface they’re ready.

        dumplings Oaxaca-style

        dumplings Oaxaca-style

      • Mole Coloradito, incredibly rich… 
Mole Coloradito

Mole Coloradito

More about the many different moles of México!

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Tesmole de pollo mazateco from Oaxaca

Tezmoles are a traditional dish from the Mazateca region of Oaxaca. They are often prepared in association with spiritual ceremonies.

    • some of the more unusual ingredients for ‘Tesmole de pollo mazateco‘ are achiote paste, yerba santa leaves and chiltepe chiles.
ingredients for Tesmole

achiote paste, yerba santa leaves and chiltepe chiles, a few of the ingredients for Tesmole

  • start by boiling 8 sets of chicken thighs and legs in 10 cups of salted water along with 1/3 onion and a couple of garlic cloves at low heat for a couple of hours.
  • chiletepe chiles for Tesmole de Pollo
chiles for Tesmole de Pollo

chiles for Tesmole de Pollo

  • if you can’t find 20 chiletepe chiles for the Tesmole de Pollo, then substitute 12 guajillo chiles and eight chiles de arbol.
substitute chiles for the Tesmole de Pollo if you can't find chiletepecs

substitute chiles for the Tesmole de Pollo if you can’t find chiletepes

  • dried yerba santa leaves for the Tesmole de Pollo. They have a peppery/licorice smell with a pungent overlay of something (kerosene maybe?). Tarragon is probably the best substitute.
Hierba Santa

yerba santa

  • the chiles are soaked for 15 minutes, strained and then added to the blender along with a cup of chicken broth, 1/4 tsp of achiote paste and the yerba santa leaves. The blended mix is added back into the pot with the chicken and broth
into the blender

into the blender

  • the corn flour is mixed with water to form a dough; the masa dough is then mixed with more water to form a runny mix
the corn flour is mixed with water to form a dough; the dough is then mixed with more flour to act as a thickener

the masa dough is mixed with more flour to act as a thickener

  • the runny masa mix is added to the Tesmole de Pollo for thickening

    using a watery masa mixture to thicken the Mole

  • Tesmole de Pollo Mazateco served over rice
    Tesmole de Pollo over rice, Oaxaca-style

    Tesmole de Pollo over rice, Oaxaca-style

    After lunch you might want to go to the the Oaxacan museo, it has an astonishing selection of artifacts from all over Mexico…

    the Oaxacan museo

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Mole Amarillito de Oaxaca

Mole Amarillito de Oaxaca, is one of the seven moles that the state of Oaxaca is famous for. ‘Amarillito’ means ‘yellow’; ‘mole’ is the indigenous word for a multi-layered sauce formed from a complex mix of spices and herbs. This dish is from my UBC Mexican cooking class with Chef Rossana Ascencio.

  • the ingredients for the Mole Amarillito; the top bowl contains green beans and chayote, a Mexican squash; the next bowl tomatillos, onion, garlic and guajillo chiles. The lower right bowl contains yerba santa leaves, similar in taste to tarragon, and the lower left is lard from reduced pork belly.

    ingredients for Mole Amarillito

    ingredients for Mole Amarillito

  • chayote es un tipo de calabaza, al igual que el calabacín
chayote, a popular Mexican squash

chayote, a popular Mexican squash

  • close-up of tomatillos, guajillo chiles and onion for the Mole Amarillito

    Mole Amarillito Ingredients

    Mole Amarillito ingredients

  • cubed pork was simmered in water with onion and garlic. The pork was cooked until just tender, then set aside and the broth reserved.
  • other ingredients included a couple of yellow potatoes, crushed toasted cumin seeds, crushed toasted cloves, and Mexican oregano.

    Mexican ingredients: Mexican oregano

    Mexican oregano is from a very different plant than regular oregano, but if you can’t find any, then regular oregano, although stronger in flavour, is the best substitute.

  • after chopping the potatoes and chayote in to similar-sized chunks, they were boiled until tender, drained and set aside for adding later.
Potatoes and Chayote Squash

Potatoes and Chayote Squash set aside for the Mole Amarillito

  • the Guajillo chiles were toasted in a hot dry pan, which changes their colour and texture, and adds a toasted flavour. They were then deseeded and deveined. Because their skins are fairly tough, they were soaked in boiling water for 15 minutes followed by another 10 minute soak in fresh water.
Boiling Charred Chiles

boiling charred Guajillo chiles to soften the skins

  • at this point they were soft enough be blended.
the softened chiles are blended

the softened chiles are blended

  • everything was added to the pork/onion/garlic broth and then a watery masa mixture was added thicken the mole.
using a watery masa mixture to thicken the Mole

using a watery masa mixture to thicken the Mole

  • the dimpled Chochoyotes, consisting of masa, lard, minced garlic and salt, were popped into boiling water. When they floated to the surface they were ready to add to the Mole Amarillito. More detailed images of making these dumplings on the Mole Coloradito page: https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/12/22/mole-coloradito-a-traditional-mole-from-oaxaca/
    dumplings Oaxaca-style

    Chochoyotes, dumplings Oaxaca-style

    And when everything is ready, por fin, the Mole Amarillito!

    Mole Amarillito

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Sopa de milpa or ‘garden soup’ from Oaxaca

My UBC class in Mexican cooking from Oaxaca started with this traditional soup.

Sopa de milpa or ‘garden soup’. A milpa is a traditional Mesoamerican corn patch that consisted of rows of corn planted together with the companion plants such as tomatoes, zucchini, poblano chiles, ‘nopales’ (cactus paddles), and epazote (a herb). These, along with the onions and garlic brought from Europe by the Spaniards, form the main ingredients found in this soup.

Sopa de Milpa or 'Garden Soup'

Sopa de Milpa or ‘Garden Soup’

  • pureed tomatoes, corn niblets, 2 poblano chiles, epazote (a herb) and oil were some of the main ingredients found in this soup.
Ingredients for Sopa de Milpa

some ingredients for Sopa de Milpa

  • the soup started with 1 cup diced onion sauteed until translucent, at which time one minced garlic clove and 2 1/2 cups pureed tomatoes were added
  • the two poblano chiles were sliced into strips
  • a tip about buying nopales (prickly pear paddles) from Chef Rossana: Buy paddles approximately the size of your hand as larger ones can be too fibrous. Remove the spines by sliding the knife across at a steep angle.
    removing the spines from the nopales

    removing the spines from the nopales

    the nopales are cut into 'hands' and grilled

    the nopales are cut into ‘hands’ and grilled

    rajas de nopales

    strips (rajas) of nopales

  • 2 cups of diced zucchini, 2 cups corn niblets, the poblano chile strips, 2 cups of nopale strips and 5 or 6 cups of vegetable or chicken broth were all added to the tomato/onion/garlic mix at the same time. It was seasoned, brought to a boil and then reduced to a simmer.
everything goes into the pot

everything goes into the pot

  • pungent, and redolent of mint, licorice and a delicate kerosene, epazote adds a distinctive taste to the soup. Chef Rossana suggested removing any stems before adding to the pot as they are quite woody. It was added at this point and then the soup is simmered for another 5-10 minutes.
epazote

epazote

  • the soup served

    Sopa de Milpa or 'Garden Soup'

    Sopa de Milpa or ‘Garden Soup’

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try it, you’ll like it! – the main food market in Oaxaca, Mexico

We arrived at Oaxaca’s main food market around lunchtime, and the smell of roasting meat drew us into this hidden wing that jutted off of the main building. Here the BBQs were in full swing, the air was full of smoke, and sunlight was streaming through vents that had been opened to clear the smoky haze. All this created a photo ‘op’ that I couldn’t resist.

Oaxaca Market

Oaxaca Market

As this was back in the days of film it was only much later that I realized that one of my quick shots contained this classic scene of tasting samples being handed out. You can almost hear the vendadora saying, “try it, you’ll like it!”

What you can’t see is the aroma of roasting meat or the taste when they served it in tortillas with salsa cruda, guacamole and radishes. ¡Qué delicioso!

extras for your 'carnitas' at the Mercado de Oaxaca

extras for your ‘carnitas‘ at the Mercado de Oaxaca

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food & wine of the Alsace Cooking Class 3 Part 2

for part 1 of this Alsatian meal, featuring foie gras and escargot in vol-au-vents and see the Food & Wine of Alsace Class 3 Part 1

Munster Valley Pie

The next thing on our Alsatian menu was ‘Munster Valley Pie‘, a pork pie done Alsace-style with Munster cheese and licoricey tarragon.

Alsace-style Pork Pie

Alsace-style Pork Pie

  • for the pork pie, we started off by making the pastry crust. Here the butter is being cut into the flour. Then the mixture was processed, and once ‘smooth’, an egg added through the feeding tube, followed by a few drops of cold water. The processor was stopped once the dough had formed into a ball.

    cutting the butter into the flour for the pie pastry

    cutting the butter into the flour for the pie pastry

  • the next step in making the pork pie was to prepare the filling, starting with pork tenderloin cut into small cubes…

    this is what Chef Eric says is finely diced pork

    this is what Chef Eric says is finely diced pork

  • bread crumbs were mixed with the diced pork…

    Bread crumbs for the pork pie

    Bread crumbs for the pork pie

  • to the bread crumbs and pork were added a quarter cup of Madeira, milk, tarragon, diced boiled potatoes, Munster cheese, fried onion, garlic, egg and spices

    Madeira wine for the pork pie

    1/4 cup of Madeira wine was added to the pork & breadcrumb mix

  • after being refrigerated for at least 10 minutes, the pastry was rolled out in two pieces. The larger bottom portion was draped over the pie pan, and then filled with the pork mixture.

    the pork mixture in put into the pastry-lined pie plate

    the pork mixture in placed into the pastry-lined pie plate

  • the smaller top portion of pastry was placed on top of the pork pie and a neat trick: a rolling pin was applied along the edge of the pie plate to trim off the excess pastry.

    trimming the pastry crust by pressing down hard on the edges of the pie plate with a rolling pin

    trimming the pastry crust by pressing down hard on the edge with a rolling pin

  • the Munster Valley pork pie was brushed with egg yolk, decorated and then baked.

    Munster Valley Pork Pie straight out of the oven

    Munster Valley Pork Pie straight out of the oven

  • the wine selected to go with the pork pie was a well-aged Pinot Noir from the Alsace region.

    $80 Pinot Noir to go with the Pork Pie

    $80 Pinot Noir to go with the Pork Pie

  • the wine selected to go with the pork pie was a well-aged (2002) Pinot Noir from the Alsace region.  Like the Foie Gras we had in the first part of this meal, this $80 bottle of wine isn’t likely to grace my table any time soon but I really enjoyed it, especially with the pork pie. It started off ’stinky’ of truffles and earth, with soft Madeira notes but tasted and smelled waaaay better after a bite or two of the pork pie.

    back label of the Pinot Noir Wine

    back label of the Pinot Noir Wine

 Seafood Sylvaner Choucroute

Choucroute is the French version of sauerkraut, very popular in the German-influenced Alsace region where cabbage grows all winter long. Chef Eric’s version had masses of different fish and seafoods, wine, onions, and potatoes in a wine cream sauce. This dish requires what the French call ‘mise en place’, where all of the many ingredients were prepared ahead. Once everything was ready the final dishes were assembled.

    • juniper berries were the surprise ingredient in the choucroute

      Juniper Berries were the surprise ingredient in the choucroute

      Juniper Berries were the surprise ingredient in the choucroute

    • the juniper berries were sauteed with onions, garlic and a few bay leaves…
Onions, juniper berries and bay leaves

Onions, juniper berries and bay leaves

  • the choucroute and wine were combined with the onion mixture, and then smoked herring was placed on top to keep both warm while the rest of the dish was prepped

    the smoked herring and sauerkraut being kept warm

    the smoked herring and sauerkraut being kept warm

  • browning the white fish filletsfish fillets frying
  • the salmon fillets were also brownedbrowned salmon fillets
  • the ‘mise en place’, where all of the ingredients have prepared ahead and are now ready to assemble.

    the 'mise en place' set up for the final preparation of the Seafood Sauerkraut

    the ‘mise en place‘ set up for the final preparation of the Seafood Sauerkraut

  • puff pastry toppers were made from the excess dough left over from the ‘vol-au-vents‘ used for the escargot appetizer from part 1 of this third class

    Puff Pastry Toppers for the Seafood Choucroute

    Puff Pastry Toppers for the Seafood Choucroute

  • the finished Seafood Sylvaner Choucroute, served with the Sylvaner wine that also accompanied our escargot appetizer

Seafood Sauerkraut

Dessert for this banquet was Fromage Blanc Tart. Within a fabulous crust was a rich fromage blanc/crème fraîche/egg filling. Again, not too sweet seems to be the keyword for most of the French desserts.

White Fromage Tart

White Fromage Tart

With it we had another essential French experience: Eau-de-Vie Poire Williams.

Eau-de-Vie Poire William

Eau-de-Vie Poire Williams

For the intro to our 2nd class of Alsatian cuisine: https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/12/12/ubc-food-wine-of-alsace-class-2-part-1/

For the intro to our 1st class of Alsatian cuisine:
https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/10/19/the-food-wine-of-alsace-ubc-class-1-part-1/ 

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food & wine of the Alsace Class 3 Part 1

In our previous class we started preparing ‘Foie Gras au Naturel‘ for this third class. At $225/kilo, and requiring a very precise SousVide Water Oven to cook it correctly, this fancy duck liver is not something I’m going to be making at home any time soon.

Foie gras on toasts with fresh fig

Foie gras on toasts with fresh fig

The process, however, was very interesting so here goes:
• The foie gras is covered with a water & milk mixture, and placed in the refrigerator for several hours

Foie Gras in milk

Foie gras in milk

• The main membrane as well as any veins are removed.
• The cleaned foie gras is seasoned with salt, pepper and sugar
• The two lobes of the liver are rolled and vacuum-packed

the Foie gras is rolled and then vacuum-packed

the foie gras is rolled and then vacuum-packed

• Once the SousVide water bath reaches precisely 58°C, the packed foie gras is put into it for 50 minutes, then removed and chilled in an ice bath.
• The cooked foie gras is then refrigerated for at least one day before serving

In this class, the chilled foie gras was layered on toasted brioche and topped with a fig wedge. Sinfully good, and exquisite with the wine Chef Eric chose, an Alsace Grand Cru with pure Gewurztraminer flavour. Spicier and less sweet than German-style Gewurztraminer, I gave this wine my maximum 4 stars!

Foie gras on toast with fresh fig along with the wine

Foie gras on toast with fresh fig along with the Alsace Grand Cru Gewurztraminer

Our other appetizer was ‘Vol-au-Vents‘ (crispy puff pastry shells) filled with ‘Escargots in a Wine and Herb Cream Sauce’, and paired with a Sylvaner. According to Chef Eric, this delicate Alsatian white is perfect to accompany seafood (& snails) but I found it a bit too sour for my taste. The escargot were exquisite though.

Escargot en Vol-au-Vents

Escargot en Vol-au-Vents

For part 2 of this third Alsatian cooking class: https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/12/16/food-wine-of-the-alsace-cooking-class-3-part-2/

For the intro to our second class of Alsatian cuisine: https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/12/12/ubc-food-wine-of-alsace-class-2-part-1/

For the intro to our first class of Alsatian cuisine:
https://blogs.ubc.ca/albatz/2012/10/19/the-food-wine-of-alsace-ubc-class-1-part-1/ 

 

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Food & Wine of Alsace Class 2 Part 2

for part 1 of this meal see the Food & Wine of Alsace Class 2 Part 1

‘Grilled Munster Cheese Salad’

Following the richness of the ‘Flammekueche’ and the meatiness of the Baeckenofe, this salad was a bit of light relief. This course consisted of lettuce and tomato salad dressed with a Dijon mustard vinaigrette, and grilled Munster cheese on a slice of French bread.

Munster cheese wrapper

Munster cheese wrapper

The Munster cheese is from the Alsace region. A soft cow’s milk cheese with a rind, it ripens in a similar way to Camembert or Brie. In this case, because the grilling softened it considerably, a less ripe cheese was chosen. To test the ripeness Chef Eric checked the softness along the edges of the cheese.

test the Munster cheese for ripeness by pressing the edges of the round

test the Munster cheese for ripeness by pressing the edges of the round

Munster cheese salad

Munster cheese salad

It was served with a Pinot Auxerrois, a light dry wine typical of the Alsace. Chef Eric could not locate a French Auxerrois in Vancouver, so we tried the Gray Monk Auxerrois instead.

Gray Monk Pinot Auxerrois

Gray Monk Pinot Auxerrois

‘Apple Tart with Kirsch Crème Anglaise’

The tart had a rich baked custard filling topped with slices of flambéed apple. At the time of serving, the Kirsch Crème Anglaise (a type of custard sauce) was poured over the tart.

the apples 'flambé'ing

the apples being flambéed

Alsace Apple Tart with custard sauce

Alsace appletart with custard sauce

The Pinot Auxerrois that I had left over from the salad was much too sour for this dessert. However, those of us in the class that had any ‘Gentil’ wine left by the time dessert rolled around, found it quite agreeable with the lightly sweet dessert.

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UBC Food & Wine of Alsace: Class 2 Part 1

These three cooking classes, featuring the food and wine of the Alsace region of France, were taken with UBC Continuing Studies. The Alsace region has moved back and forth between Germany and France over the centuries, and both the food and wine are heavily influenced by their German neighbours, as you can see by the sauerkraut soup that was the starter course for our second class. 

Sauerkraut & smoked sausage soup

sauerkraut & smoked sausage soup

‘Sauerkraut Soup with Smoked Sausage’

There were two meats in this soup, kielbasa sausage and diced boneless pork chops. Other ingredients included sauerkraut, onion, carrots, apple, apple cider, potato and herbs. The result was a hearty winter soup, perfect for the gloomy weather we were having.

The wine pairing for the Sauerkraut Soup was a ‘Gentil’ (which translates as ‘nice’) wine, a blend of Alsatian whites including 50% French Reisling (not as sweet as German Reisling) plus varying amounts of Pinot Gris, Gerwertztaminer, and Sylvaner. As it went rather ‘nicely’ with most of the dishes, I gave 3* out of four, and would buy it for its versatility.

Gentil Wine

Gentil “Hugel” Wine

Tarte Flambée or ‘Flammekueche’

The ‘Flambée’ referred to here is not an alcohol-drenched dish set aflame, but rather a type of wood-fired oven. The tart, called ‘Flammekueche’ in the Alsace, was described as an Alsatian pizza but to my mind was more like a quiche. There is a thin crust of dough topped with a variety of items depending on the type of ‘pizza’ one makes. Ours was unbelievably rich with ‘lardons’ (double-smoked bacon), thin slices of onion, button mushrooms, crème fraîche, Gruyere cheese, nutmeg and Dijon mustard.

Tarte Flambée or ‘Flammekueche’

Tarte Flambée or ‘Flammekueche’

The wine chosen to compliment this dish was a Pinot Blanc. This one had notes of peach and tangerine with lots of flavour, and Chef Eric said that it goes well with anything rich (the crème fraîche and Gruyere cheese) and/or smoky (the ‘lardon’) and the Tarte Flambée qualified on both! I gave it 3* out of four, and would definitely buy it to complement this dish.

‘Baeckenofe with Sweet and Sour Cabbage’

The main course was an incredibly hearty stew made up of meat (pork shoulder), meat (beef chuck), meat (lamb shoulder), meat (ham hock) and more meat (kielbasa sausage). And a bottle of wine. Plus a few other minor ingredients such as onions, carrots, leeks, potatoes along with various herbs…

Baeckenofe, a meaty Alsatian stew

Baeckenofe, a meaty Alsatian stew

It was actually really good although if I was making it at home I might remove at least two, if not three, of the meats. The meats were marinated in wine and herbs overnight, then simmered until they fell apart. All the ingredients were layered in a buttered casserole dish and then baked for an hour or so. Served with French bread, cornichons (little pickles) and Dijon mustard on the side, this could have been a meal in itself. We had it accompanied with Sweet and Sour Cabbage.

Baeckenofe with sweet and sour cabbage, Dijon mustard and cornichons

Baeckenofe with sweet and sour cabbage, Dijon mustard and cornichons

The wine chosen for this was a Pinot Gris. Of all the wines we imbibed that evening, this one was my fave, with an aroma of flowers and a taste of apricots, full and flavourful. Although $18 in Vancouver, apparently it is available for only a few euros in France, one great reason to visit France!

Pfaffenheims Pinot Gris, my four star wine of the evening!

Pfaffenheims Pinot Gris, my four star wine of the evening!

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Coctel de camarones ‘Acapulco’ – Shrimp cocktail Acapulco-style

Coctel de camarones ‘Acapulco’  was the fave dish from my class on the cooking of Oaxaca/Guerrero regions of Mexico. I could just imagine eating this while lounging under a palapa on Caleta beach in Acapulco and knocking back with una cerveza bien fría

Shrimp Cocktail Acapulco-style

  • The salsa for the shrimp cocktail was made from 1/3 cup ketchup, 1/2 cup lime juice, 2 tbsp salsa ‘Valentina’  and a pinch of Mexican oregano (you can substitute regular oregano)

the salsa for the Shrimp Cocktails

  • Add chopped tomatoes, onion, cilantro and serrano chiles to the camarones

adding chopped tomatoes, onion, cilantro and serrano chiles to the camarones

  • close up of the coctel de camerones, just before the avocado is gently ‘folded’ in

close up of shrimp cocktail just before the avocado is added

  • we had totopes, home-made corn chips, to go along with the shrimp cocktail

home-made corn totopes to accompany the shrimp cocktail

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