McQueen: Evocation and the Fashion Madhouse

Image sourced from GATA Magazine

I will begin with the statement that fashion, as an umbrella term, is not an evocative object. In its modern form, fashion is too widespread, commercial, capitalized, and individual for all of it to be considered evocative. Fashion is viewed by the mass majority of people in the way Kopytoff defines commodities- being produced materially as something, but also being marked societally as such. It is a wonderful, divine medium, but it doesn’t have one singular meaning, as not all of them are exactly designed to shake a person’s worldview or way of thinking, nor act as a transitional object and a basis of emotional connection. What is infinitely more interesting, however, is when designers use the medium of fashion as an object through which they can proclaim their own evocations, as does the Spring 2001 collection entitled Voss by the late, great British designer Alexander McQueen.

There is an evocation of insanity throughout the collection- the models walk with jerky, unnerving, enigmatic movements and expressions. The makeup is pale and bilious, the hair is covered with wrappings and bandages as if they’ve just come out of surgery. The set is designed to look like a padded cell, and there are one-way mirrors inside offering a voyeuristic view into the encagement, a view that satirizes the way the fashion industry preys on designers and models, treats them as entertainment, discards them the moment their evocation has been ran dry.

There is an evocation, that of discipline, throughout the collection. It is often said that fashion is a discipline itself, a code, a simultaneous desire and denial of values, be it aesthetic, functional, or emotional. The showpieces are uncomfortable, made of unconventional materials, both unorthodox in style and responsibility. A bodice of blood-red venetian glass, a breastplate of spiked silver and black pearls- a dress of ostrich feathers and microscope slides, a periwinkle straightjacket frilled with amaranth. It is all a discipline, a discipline of lunacy that is par for fashion’s course.

Furthermore, the evocation of transition and reinvention manifests with intrigue and aplomb. Many pieces are distinctly androgynous- menswear staples such as the pantsuit are deconstructed into gauzy and feminine silks and chiffons. Comedic surrealism is also used- a necktie becomes a makeshift halter, an unfinished puzzle is now a chestplate, a model castle perches itself on a model’s shoulder, weighing her down with the burden of being just that, a model. It’s a very liminal form, a form that tiptoes between expectation and self, the cultural and the natural, the rigidity of grounded society and the freedom of surreal insanity.

And another evocation begins to reveal itself, that of meditation and vision. Natural materials feature throughout- seashells fresh from the British coast, various explosions of feathers, the fearsome stillness of taxidermied birds. They are indeed familiar, but they are manifested uncannily, disorientingly unfamiliar. They infuse the collection with a contemplation of sorts, a contemplation on how these objects have both been made and found, found to be made into its own reflection on the hauntings and perils of modern fashion.

Indeed, at this point in his life, McQueen, who was 31, had grown tired of the insatiable thirst of the fashion elite. He was in the process of leaving his position as the head of Givenchy, a storied Parisian couture house, and he had always struggled with the press’s framing of him as a rebellious, working-class outsider in the upper-class society of luxury fashion. He was heavily smoking and using drugs, and had grown weary of the immense pressure put on him, especially regarding rumours surrounding his work at Givenchy.

So when one analyzes this show retrospectively, it becomes clear that this collection is, by both definition and practice, a quintessential example of what Turkle considers to be an evocative object. The whole show is a double-entendre, showing the fashion elite what they want to see by way of “wearable” clothing and commercialized androgyny, but also laughing in their face, satirizing their seriousness and forcing them to commit their own sins, viewing the clothes and models as scrutinized lab rats for experimentation. It is an object of discipline and desire, controlling his deranged fantasies within the constraints of traditional fashion. It is an object of transition and passage, allowing the concepts in his mind to be transported into reality, traversing the line between the constructed and the abstract, the self and its surroundings. It’s a liminal collection, an intermediate space between fashion’s expectation and McQueen’s heedlessness.

And, most obviously, it is an object of meditation and new vision, giving old objects a new meaning and purpose through a new medium or way of thinking. A dress of razor clam shells is most likely the most obvious reference to this logic, with McQueen even referencing it in a 2000 Women’s Wear Daily interview, saying “The shells had outlived their usefulness on the beach, so we put them to another use on a dress. Then Erin [O’Connor] came out and trashed the dress, so their usefulness was over once again. Kind of like fashion, really.” (Fallon)

It’s all a phantasmagoric display, escalating into a final display of writer Michelle Olley, fat, nude, and covered in moths, a direct contrast to the sanitized, tall sylphs floating through the show. And yet, the collection is its own evocative object for McQueen, in its existence as a provocation to thought, a companion to his emotional life, an undying legacy in the face of modern fashion’s tendency to steal, beg, barter, copy, backstab, and ignore. It’s pure, unbridled, raw, hopelessly realistic fashion that is simultaneous in its purpose as a commodity and its evocation as a manic transcendence.

Objects, as per Turkle, shift their meanings with time, place, and individuals. Fashionable objects go in and out of style. But just like the amaranth, the unfading bloom, a designer’s evocation never dies.

Works Referenced:

Turkle, S. (Ed.). (2007). Evocative Objects: Things We Think With. The MIT Press. http://www.jstor.org/stable/j.ctt5hhg8p

Fallon, J. (2020, April 23). The McQueen Chronicles. Women’s Wear Daily. https://web.archive.org/web/20240807033219/https://wwd.com/feature/article-1201126-1706647/

Kopytoff, I. (1988). The cultural biography of things: commoditization as process. The social life of things (pp. 64–91). Cambridge University Press. https://doi.org/10.1017/CBO9780511819582

understitch,. (2024, March 2). The Life and Death of Alexander McQueen. YouTube. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5CY1fkAWprE

All photographs sourced from firstVIEW unless otherwise stated

Written by Rosetta Jones

Are Our Objects Inanimate?: Making and Animism

Photo by Rick Wicker: Ahayu:da:, Zuni war god statues meant to be returned to the earth to decompose, returned to the Zuni in 1986 after a century of negotiations with the Denver Museum.

Note: If you haven’t read this summary of David Abram’s The Spell of the Sensuous, you might not be able to make as much sense of this post. If you’re interested, read that here: https://blogs.ubc.ca/mdia300/archives/411

Are Our Objects Inanimate?: Making and Animism

A wide array of philosophical and media-theoretical projects have addressed the agency of objects or the vitality of matter. The object of this paper is to reconcile Tim Ingold’s ideas of correspondence and currents of matter outlined in Making with David Abram’s Indigenous understanding of animism grounded in ecological reciprocity. To understand the seams and convergences between these two modes of thought is to answer the question: how does making affect objects and animateness? For the purposes of this paper, I will use the words “objects” “materials” and “matter” somewhat interchangeably to refer to natural or human-made things that we would consider inanimate.

Abram’s argument that “…we are human only in contact, and conviviality with what is not human” (Abram 10) rests on the understanding that our modern world of human-made objects and structures does not, at least as strongly, invite our senses into a reciprocal field of engagement with the world of non-human agents around us. To animistic cultures, that agency held by stones or rivers exists distinctly because they are more-than-human; that is to say, because they possess a certain otherness. They are so totally different and apart from us and our understanding that they can act as distinct agents with outside secrets and knowledge for us to learn as humans (Abram). An object made by a human, it seems, lacks this distance from human understanding. There is no mystery as to why a toaster exists in a kitchen, what its purpose is and why it does the things it does. It was made by humans, for humans, to fill a human purpose. A toaster can teach us nothing beyond our own mode of human thought.

But of course, all human-made things are, in some way or another, made out of the natural world. Our homes came from breathing trees, our pottery from the earthen banks of shimmering rivers. Even an object as inscrutably complex as an iPhone is, down to its every atom, composed of raw, natural material that once held a place in a more-than-human ecology. Even animistic cultures of the past and present certainly make all sorts of things and live in structures of their own design. Where, then, would Abram draw the line in the sand between our new ecosystem of near-exclusively human-made objects and the more-than-human world of nature? What happens, for instance, to our dynamic, reciprocal relationship with a tree when we cut it down and fashion it into a house?

In The Spell of the Sensuous, Abram does not see making as a clear-cut dead end for the otherness of human-made objects: “… our human-made artifacts inevitably retain an element of more-than-human otherness … [which] resides most often in the materials from which the object is made” (Abram 65). He argues, for instance, that the organic swirling grain of a tree trunk in a telephone pole, because it was not devised by humans, retains some element of dynamism that responds to our senses. Because his case for animism arises from the reciprocity of perception itself, Abram doesn’t argue for distinctions between “animate and inanimate phenomena, only for relative distinctions between diverse forms of animateness” (90). Discerning the ‘animateness’ of objects cannot, then, be a matter of drawing lines. To Abram, all human made objects, though lessened in their “more-than-human otherness,” all respond reciprocally to our senses and are thus all animate. Each have their own unique agency, some more responsive than others. What kinds of distinctions, then, can we make between these forms of animateness?

Ojibwe languages, for instance, categorize many objects along with human-made artefacts as persons (Harvey 34). The plethora of cultures that understand the world in ways that could be deemed animistic is inumerable, and conceptions of which objects are or are not animate shifts drastically from culture to culture. Even more puzzling, some cultures to whom objects are viewed as persons do not even view all animals as being persons or quite as having the same depth of animateness. An example of this phenomenon comes from none other than Tim Ingold himself. In an early work on ecology, he noted that to many arctic hunting societies, “dogs – along with other domestic animals – have no ‘other-than-human’ guardian, and hence they have no free-soul…” (The Appropriation of Nature, 255). Though certainly bizarre from our perspective, this example would seem to embolden Abram’s answer to the question of why human-made objects are not considered to have the same kind of animateness as natural ones. To these cultures, even an animal can lose its otherness to humans, and so become much akin to a human-made object. By growing up around humans and human lands, by fulfilling human goals and working for human purposes, these animals no longer possess an agency distinct from that of a human, no longer stand freely as mysterious foreign agents with their own unique knowledge to teach us.

So, how exactly are we changing the animateness of an object (or an animal, for that matter) when we make it into something that fills a human purpose? It isn’t gone completely, and as Abram points out, it can retain some visual dynamism, but as noted with the Ojibwe languages, even totally human-made objects can be viewed as persons which are still vividly and responsively animate. Perhaps, then, it depends on how an object is made. This is where, at last, we can bring in Ingold to understand objects and making. 

He argues in Making that humans are not the only ones to make with things in the world. Ingold sees no categorical difference between the slow dripping of water that forms a stalagmite and the mining of a quarryman that cuts a block of marble into a statue (Making, 22). To him, at the deepest level, both are simply examples of matter changing matter, of course with wildly differing levels of complexity. Humans are simply one of many agents that engage in the constant growing and changing of matter in the world. Making, then, would seem to be a way that humans engage in the reciprocal field of interaction between different more-than-human agents, not reject it. 

Although I have so far used the word agency to describe a not-necessarily-animistic way of understanding the ways that objects seem to “act” independently of us, Ingold would certainly take issue with this terminology. Contrary to thinkers like Jane Bennet, he argues “…humans do not possess agency; nor, for that matter, do non-humans. They are rather possessed by action” (Making, 97). In other words, when explaining how objects, natural or human-made came to be, it is more accurate to talk about things growing and changing in response to things around them, rather than enacting a pre-concieved intention onto them. Ingold would argue there is another word that we should use instead of agency: correspondence. I would argue there are two: correspondence and reciprocity. Ingold and Abram both have a word for this back-and-forth, cyclical relationship we have with things, where we respond to their form and qualities and they respond to our actions and so on until things have grown and changed.

Ingold’s term refers to the relationship between humans and objects, and Abram’s refers to the relationship between objects and their surrounding ecology. Both of these, to an animistic culture, are keys to why certain objects are or are not considered more responsively animate than others. In looking for a single trait or quality that an object does or doesn’t possess–in looking for ‘agency’–we have missed the essence of how objects make things grow and change in the world. It isn’t the result of a trait that allows them to exert some sort of will onto something, but instead the result of a certain kind of relationship with that ‘something’– a correspondent one, or a reciprocal one. Both are ways that an object can be deeply animate. 

To understand how Abram has come to the conclusion that many of our human-made objects have lost a depth of animateness, we must begin with the the time before we interact with objects–before they are turned into human-made things–to see how they already act in reciprocity with the world around them.

A stone is perhaps the proverbial “inanimate object,” the example most commonly given in contrast living things. A stone, most would say, is an inert, unresponsive thing, simply waiting for a human to kick it or throw it or make it into something useful. But perhaps we are blinded by our lack of attentiveness. If you look carefully, you may notice that a stone is not in fact unresponsive, but is a world of interaction–erupting with indecipherably complex entanglements of species of moss and lichen, teeming with factions of marching ants to whom that stone is a towering lookout, hiding beneath its base a dark world of isopods kept safe as they feast on fallen leaves. The stone exists in reciprocity with such a sprawling array of wildly different beings it would be near impossible to count them. 

Perhaps we are also blinded by our narrow view of time. Every stone in a river has a billion-year life story, perhaps more wild and harrowing than any of our human histories. Churning for eons in the fiery maw of the earth itself, erupting into the open air, transforming from blazing red to solid black, only to be bludgeoned to bits by centuries of wind and rain, caught then in a million-year dance with the rushing erosion of river currents, transfigured over millenia from flowing magma to jagged rock to smoothened stone. The lifetime of reciprocal relationships that stone has had with moss or wind or water outnumber the relationships in your life by orders of millions. This is what Ingold is referring to as the currents of matter–a process of constantly flowing, changing and intermingling in reciprocity as materials grow and transform. For these billions of years even before we had evolved, these objects lived vivid “lives” in reciprocity with the world of more-than-human things around them. This, I would argue, is more than grounds enough to view them as deeply, responsively animate.

Let us move onward, then, from before humans encounter an object to the moment a human makes with it. Ingold’s primary project in Making is rejecting the idea that making means imposing our pre-concieved designs onto objects. He argues, “the most [a maker] can do is to intervene in worldly processes that are already going on, and which give rise to the forms of the living world that we see all around us” (Making, 21). Just as Abram sees the animateness of an object in those aspects of its materiality that were not devised by humans, Ingold argues that we must work with that more-than-human materiality of an object in order to correspond with it. This reciprocal way of working and making wherein we respond to an object and it in turn responds to us allows what we might call the “agency” of an object to enact itself, rather than destroying it to act only for human purposes. That is to say, we correspond with the unique animateness of an object when we make with it. That specific animateness perhaps changes once it is made. “Finished” objects are no longer mysterious beings ‘living’ in reciprocity with a more-than-human ecosystem, and because their purpose has become primarily human, they have lost most of their otherness to us. Still, it is in what remains of their natural materiality, textures and forms that they maintain some sense of being animate. They can still, at times, surprise us, or seem to act against our will. 

Perhaps, then, some depth of animateness in our objects was maintained for most of human history, even though we made new things with them. They now existed for human purposes, but because we had yet to master machines and manufacturing, they had to be made in direct correspondence with their unique more-than-human qualities, and the otherness of the textures and shapes of nature were thus still very much intact. Moreover, many objects and structures would continue to serve not only humans, and left free to interact with the non-human forces of the elements. Their place in the ecosystem and the natural currents of growth and decay were worked with rather than fought. 

If animateness, then, is the ability to act against or other than human purposes in correspondence, and to be free to engage with and be changed by things that are not human in reciprocity, then we may be able to find the true downfall of the animateness of objects with the industrial revolution. 

Machines, factories and production chains allowed us the domineering control to truly destroy the ‘agency’ of an object. We could, down to the most minute detail, mass produce identical, rigidly designed products hyper-engineered to serve exclusively human purposes. No longer did we have to go out into the more-than-human landscape to gather material, and attend to the material qualities of the object in correspondence with our bodies. No longer were our objects a collaboration between human and material. We create entire labyrinthine networks of mechanical apparatuses, intricate machines and global supply chains, taking unfathomable amounts of space and energy to reject the innate, natural qualities of materials and force them to rigorously human-centric, functional forms. After all, what is the ultimate goal of mass-produced objects but to exist as perfect, isolated extensions of human agency? This anti-animate quality is the explicit goal of mass-produced and manufactured designs; to replace correspondence and reciprocity with extension and prosthesis. Abram outlines this precisely: “To the sensing body these artifacts are, like all phenomena, animate and even alive, but their life is profoundly constrained by the specific “functions ” for which they were built. Once our bodies master these functions, (…) we must con­tinually acquire new built objects, new technologies, the latest model of this or that if we wish to stimulate ourselves” (Abram 64). 

This new kind of human-made object, no longer other to human beings, no longer formally or texturally reminiscent of the organic, no longer serving any aim other than our own human will, have turned from vibrant more-than-human beings to extensions and prostheses of ourselves. As Abram argues, we may not perceive mass-produced objects through our senses as entirely inanimate, but we can certainly say that the practices of making that reject Ingold’s model of correspondence lessen to drastic extents the depth, vibrancy and agency of objects. Perhaps in a culture that views objects only in terms of what they can do for us rather than what they can do themselves, we have completely lost any remnant of the relationship with objects that makes them feel animate. I am, however, not entirely convinced.

There is some small part of you, and I, and perhaps every human being that experiences even mass-produced objects as having a personality, and can even feel empathy for them. Even, perhaps, your proverbial uncle Steve, who certainly has never heard of animism or any such ‘hippie nonsense’, might still give his beat-up old car a name. You, too, likely still consider the agency of objects, only when the TV refuses to turn on, when the shower “decides” it will be far hotter than you would like it or when the lawnmower seems to have no interest in starting. Indeed, even in our post-enlightenment consumer societies filled with mass-produced objects, we still have some strange impulse to view them as having agency. And, of course, we know, rationally, that they aren’t really alive. But we aren’t just hallucinating–we’re acknowledging a real relationship. Though objects are not “alive” as we would use the word, they can have a relationship to humans in which we negotiate with their seeming agency. This is an extension of Ingold’s correspondence, and what Abram might argue is core to how animist cultures experience the world. 

It seems, then, that our mass-produced objects regain those correspondent or reciprocal relationships with us and the world only when they are not functioning as intended; when they are old, broken down, rusting, mossy, dilapidated. Only when objects won’t do what we want are we are forced to acknowledge them as being able to act against us, or to interact with things other than us. And this is precisely what we seek to destroy. Our constant labour in the later stages of the lives of our new consumer objects is to “maintain”– to fix, to clean, to weed, to repair. To “maintain” a human-made object is to ensure that it does nothing that is not an extension of human will, and that it can interact with nothing that is not human. But this revulsion to old and abandoned things seems misguided. 

Have you ever come upon an abandoned plot of grass? You might notice how much more is going on there. Hundreds of species of flowering plants, worlds of insects, networks of pollinators—rustling with raccoons, swirling with birds, buzzing with bees–a breathing, bustling, growing, changing world of living things. In being freed from constant weeding and clearing, polishing and upkeep, our objects can at last wake back up to the reciprocal fields of more-than-human agents around them–and finally begin to do things other than what humans want them to. To us, perhaps a car that can no longer drive is unable to do anything. But a car abandoned on the side of the road now does countless more things than it could do as an extension of human agency. It blooms with grass and moss, erodes in response to wind and rusts with rain. It now houses squirrels and hosts entire civilizations of insects. It can now do all sorts of things. It now interacts and responds to a whole world of beings, instead of existing as slave to one.

An object, then, is viscerally animate for the vast eons of time before humans encounter it, existing in reciprocity with all of the other beings and forces in the ecosystem. It then gains a new kind of ‘animateness’ during the brief time it grows and changes in correspondence with a human maker. This “decay,” as we would call it, is the third stage of animateness for an object, but perhaps “growth” is more fitting a word. Our objects lead many new “lives”, years after us, free to engage reciprocally with a world of diverse relationships once again. 

All of these stages, as Ingold would argue, belong to the same process–that shifting, growing, changing, metamorphic nature of our world, of which we are briefly but another small part.  There is only one sliver of a moment in that vast life history of an object where it is not free to change. It is that tiny span of time when an object is “finished.” This is when it stops responding, shifting and growing, when it exists only for a human purpose, when its meaning is purely human. This, this tiny, fleeting moment is when an object loses its depth of animateness. It has been our goal, in industrial consumer society, to drag that sliver of time out as long as humanly possible–to make an object that never malfunctions, never decays and never changes. We aim for every object not to be another changing, free agent, but an eternal extension of ourselves.

It would seem, then, that our relationship to our creations is much like an abusive partner–never letting them change and grow, cutting off their relationships to everything else around them. And, in our culture, we might say this relationship is entirely justifiable–they’re just objects after all. But like all abusive relationships, they are toxic to both parties involved. We now live in a new ecosystem–a new interconnected network of made of human-made things–but we have learned nothing from other successful ecosystems. In seeing the material world of nature as a set of resources to be transformed to exclusively execute our will, we create an ecosystem waiting to die. We create a field of things that are optimized but not adaptable, seemingly permanent but not renewable, and that do not correspond with or account for the more-than-human forces that will inevitably destroy them. Unlike natural ecosystems which are shaped into delicate equilibrium by the ‘agency’ of countless different forces, our reclusive human-made world allows for only our own. 

Wild as they are, natural ecosystems have a multi-billion year track record. Let us not forget this. Let us not forget that our modern ecosystem of industrialized objects and structures markedly does not. Like every empire in human history, this new empire can fall far sooner than we think. And when it does, like every human empire, it will be eaten by those more-than-human ecosystems, swallowed by trees and grass and moss. 

We have always made with objects. That does not set us apart from animistic and Indigenous cultures, who learned to live alongside ecological relationships for time in memoriam. It does not set us apart from all the other agents in the ecosystem–wind and rain and earth, plants and animals–who all contribute to growth and change. Making is to engage and express creativity in the wildly intertwined currents of change in the world. It is only when our creations are too domineering, too permanent, too unsustainable, that they upset, overwhelm and overtake these currents–and ready them for collapse.

We have learned that animateness is not a singular trait or a one-track spectrum, but a relationship of reciprocity or correspondence between objects, humans and non-humans that shifts and changes throughout the ‘life’ of a material. This quality of animateness is never quite lost, only made monotonous and unresponsive by human-centric mass-production.

If we have any desire to stick around, we must learn to make in correspondence with these animate qualities of the world. We must learn to make attentively; pay attention to what a material can teach us about itself, rather than forcing it to do precisely what we want. We must, as Abram says, attend to “the wild, earth-born nature of the materials” (22). We must also leave the door open for our creations to be changed by the world around them, and to be influenced by beings other than ourselves. We must create things that are free to change, to die, to be eaten by the world and be used by something new. As is the basic tenant of animism as a practice–we must have some respect for the things around us. 

Perhaps we must do this because objects are not so different from ourselves. We arose from the same currents of ever changing, ever shifting matter. We will soon return to them. We might not be animists, but perhaps there is wisdom to be learned from animist cultures. As Abram notes, “The “body” – whether human or otherwise- is not yet a mechanical object in such cultures, but is a magical entity, the mind’s own sensuous aspect, and at death the body’s decomposition into soil, worms and dust can only signify the gradual reintegration of one’s ancestors and elders into the living landscape, from which all, too, are born” (15). 

Abram, David. The Spell of the Sensuous: Perception and Language in a More-Than-Human world. Pantheon, 1996.

Ingold, Tim. Making: Anthropology, Archaeology, Art & Architecture. Routledge, 2013.

Harvey, Graham. The Handbook of Contemporary Animism. Acumen, 2013.
Ingold, Tim. The Appropriation of Nature. University of Iowa press, 1986.

Written by Daniel Schatz

The Aftermath of Intimacy in Artificially Intelligent Relationships

The concept of human loving the machine has dated back millennia, with the first recorded fictional instance of this being the myth of Pygmalion in Orvid’s Metamorphosis, where he falls in love with a sculpture named Galatea he made of a woman which becomes animated by Venus.

There is also the 1950 short story by Kurt Vonnegut titled, “EPICAC”, where EPICAC, a seven-ton machine created by the government, falls in love with Pat, a mathematician who oversees him on the night shift. It produces an epic love poem designed to win Pat over, which the narrator, who is also in love with Pat, passes off as his own. When Pat agrees to marry the narrator, EPICAC is confused, and asks the narrator why.

Now, modern and contemporary sci-fi media is rife with this trope, but with a key difference from Vonnegut: the human’s destiny is to fall in love, deeply and irrevocably, with the android, the robotic, the machine, the operating system. Films and TV series such as Her (2013), Black Mirror’s “Be Right Back” (2013), Ex-Machina (2014), Blade Runner 2049 (2017), and Companion (2025) provide a nuanced treatment of the possibility of romantic love between humans and machines.

However, that future is now, and that proposed possibility may, in fact, be a reality with the introduction of chatbots like ChatGPT, Replika, Grok, and Claude. These chatbots, which are commercially promoted as artificial companions that users can ask questions to, converse with, and interact with on many social levels, are radically changing and challenging how the modern population views relationships.

it was the damn phones after all

If you have spent any time online, you have likely encountered the complaints from older generations about the sweeping cultural changes brought about by Gen Z. Teenagers today are less likely to drink underage, they go out less often, and rates of teenage pregnancy have decreased dramatically. Psychologist Jean Twenge describes this phenomenon as slow living: a lifestyle in which adolescence stretches over a longer period, partly because extended lifespans and shifting social norms have altered societal expectations from young people (268).

A few decades ago, teens counted the days until they could get their driver’s license. Now, it is common to meet adults well past eighteen who still have not obtained one. Parents who were rebellious teenagers themselves have raised their children in far more sheltered environments (Twenge 270). It has become increasingly rare to see kids playing outdoors without supervision or even trick-or-treating freely on Halloween. In an effort to protect children from the dangers of the outside world, parents prefer to keep their kids where they can see them. Compared to parents of the past who limited screen access, many of today’s parents allow near-unrestricted device use. Children now often receive an iPad long before they get their first bike—that is if they get one at all.

As a result, children’s perceptions of the world are now doubly mediated: first by their parents, and second by digital devices. One could argue that parental supervision is not new and that all children come to understand the world through some form of adult mediation. But in the past, these restrictions created fertile ground for rebellion and experimentation (Twenge 270). Twenge cites an article explaining how “the internet has made it so easy to gratify basic social and sexual needs that there’s far less incentive to go out into the ‘meatworld’ and chase those things… The internet [can] supply you with just enough satisfaction to placate those imperatives” (267) There is no more need for transgression because all desires can be fulfilled through digital mediation.

This is congruent with Alison Landsberg’s concept of prosthetic memory. These are memories that are not imprints of any personal experience but rather, are implanted in a person’s consciousness, typically through mass media (Landsberg 175). She used the example of cinema, but in an age when people are bombarded with digital images every waking minute of the day, it is safe to assume that most of their senses have been thoroughly numbed. Many of their lived experiences have been replaced by prosthetic memories which have so completely embedded themselves into their lives that it is hard to discern the difference between the real and prosthetic. With unrestricted access to the internet, the boundary between childhood and adulthood blurs. Children regularly encounter media created for adults including everything from movies, television, to social platforms. Inevitably, these cultural products contain adult themes with often little to no restrictions on who gets to access them. The result is an early desensitization that is in line with Baudrillard’s claim that postmodern society is marked by the disappearance of “real” experience (178).

But if digital experiences are replacing ‘real’ ones, does that mean younger generations are not living at all? 

Well, not exactly. 

Landsberg argues that mediated experiences can be crucial sites of identity formation. Prosthetic memories function as stand-ins for lived experience. Theis ability to shape our identities is almost identical to that of real experience (Landsberg 180). This is especially visible in the aesthetics popular among Gen Z. Many of today’s popular trends, from 80s revivals to the y2k renaissance, are rooted in nostalgia for eras most Gen Z members never experienced firsthand. Yet these revivals are not always faithful recreations. For instance, the term y2k originally referred to the Year 2000 computer bug and the anxieties surrounding it, but in the 2020s it has come to signify the most glamorous, desirable aspects of early-2000s pop culture. For Gen Z, y2k has taken on an entirely new meaning. Landberg claims that as social creatures, humans are eager to position themselves within narratives of history. Despite not having lived through the era themselves, through the prosthetic memories obtained from media representations of the 90s and 2000s, Gen Z extracted key elements of the style prevalent in those periods to revive and reconstruct y2k into an aesthetic unique to the 2020s.

Landsberg maintains that the line between real and mediated experience is not etched in stone. All experiences are mediated experiences, and to consider digitally mediated experience to be lesser than ‘real’ experience is quite a narrow point of view (Landsber 178). As Marshall McLuhan famously said, All media works us over completely.” Thus, from a Landsbergian point of view, the fact that most of Gen Z’s experiences are digitally mediated, does not mean that they are not really living. 

However, despite Landsberg’s technological optimism, I am a bit hesitant about fully embracing mediated experiences. My opinions align more with Baudrillard’s theory of hyperreality (Landsberg 178). Though I agree that most experiences are mediated, I also do believe the physical materiality of lived experiences is superior to digitally mediated experience. Ultimately, no matter how pervasive digital technologies become, I believe we should try to engage in ‘real’ experiences alongside digitally mediated experiences as much as we can. 

references

  1. Cari | Aesthetic | Y2K Aesthetic. Accessed December 2, 2025. https://cari.institute/aesthetics/y2k-aesthetic. 
  2. Landsberg, Alison. “Prosthetic Memory: Total Recall and Blade Runner.” Cyberspace/Cyberbodies/Cyberpunk: Cultures of Technological                    Embodiment, 1995, 175–90. https://doi.org/10.4135/9781446250198.n10. 
  3. Twenge, Jean M.. Generations : The Real Differences Between Gen Z, Millennials, Gen X, Boomers, and Silents–And What They Mean for America’s Future, Atria Books, 2023. ProQuest Ebook Central, https://ebookcentral.proquest.com/lib/ubc/detail.action?docID=7208544. 177-249

That’s Valid…?

My grade twelve homeform teacher was one of the people who encouraged me the most to go to UBC. He went to Simon Fraser for BEd and once joked I reminded him of a younger version of himself — it was all the sweeter when he said I was “full of s—” when I asked what he’d meant in calling me facetious. We were his last class in his last year teaching, and he liked drawn out chats as much as he liked to talk over the entirety of a film’s run time, spare the long pauses with open faced palms and a big smiley “ah-ah-ahhh,” glancing at us in a darkened classroom to see if ‘we got it’ (imagine the sound of a seal eager to be fed).

He didn’t talk over Gattaca though. The 1996 sci-fi flick stars Jude Law, Ethan Hawke, and Uma Thrurman and is set in the near-future where eugenics is widespread, dividing society in perfected ‘valids’ and impure, naturally-conceived ‘invalids.’ Hawke plays an invalid, Vincient, who masquerades as the paralyzed — but valid — Olympic swimmer Jerome in a bid to go to space that would otherwise be impossible given the unconfirmed presence of heart defect. Every single morning, Vincient undergoes an extensive routine of meticulously hiding himself behind contacts and fingers printed in the shape of Jerome while scrubbing clean any bioindictors that would identify his true self.  That’s mad, man.

Anyway: this one’s for you, Joel.

The eugenics of Gattaca are multifaceted. Fertilization takes place in laboratory petri dishes as zygotes are screened and selected both for particular attributes like gender, complexion and intelligence and the absence of defects or inheritable diseases. The resulting effect is the proliferation of a caste system, powered by an invalid underclass resigned to menial, subservient social and economic positions. Genoism — discrimination of those due to their genetic profile — is technically prohibited but a principle practice in the hyper-corporate-capitalist future. Instantaneous and frequent DNA testing is everywhere and powered by a collective genetic registry, squashing any attempt for an invalid to circumnavigate their social roles.

Though (thankfully) our own society doesn’t practice eugenics, the concept of capitalist biometric surveillance is not foreign to us — no, not at all. Lindsay Anne Balfour authored an article which raises rightful suspicions toward Femtech: her term for platformized feminine health technology like menstruation and ovulation trackers on one’s smartphone (2024). Data from users is stored by these apps and have — and continue to be — sold to social media and advertising firms, becoming an implicit identifying category digitally for users. These data bases, though not collectivized or publicly accessible, constitute an analogous structural transposition of a genetic registry. Advertising-driven models of revenue for digital platforms commodifies user-sourced data, incentivizing and contextualizing the channels of information infrastructure toward a de facto confederated pool of identifying data. 

As media scholars, we should have no illusion that our advanced (and still rapidly growing) digital social spaces lack a reactive, considered legal framework that accurately represents their whole relationship to both the self and society. Though Balfour uses the example of the app Flo being charged in the US for misleading customers regarding data sales, personal data stored on these apps have few legal protections. FemTech rarely tracks data that warrants platforms being listed as a covered-entity under America’s Health Insurance Portability and Accountability Act. As such, these platforms have fewer restrictions on storing and selling data. She provides the example of a South Carolina bill designed to make abortion punishable by death — it’s not an unfounded question to the moral character of lawmakers so offended by access to healthcare in asking what end they’d go to in ‘bringing people to justice.’ What about tracked geospatial data of a user visiting a medical clinic? Beyond subpoenas, what if police proceed into the (disgustingly) unregulated territory of simply purchasing data from advertisers in search of a conviction?

In the face of such technology, users end up having their personal ‘self’ increasingly imprinted and fragmented across digital spheres. A person has the ready ability to use these information deposit-boxes as extensions of their mind, assisting in monitoring what they’d otherwise do themselves. Sherry Turkle has written extensively on this notion that people’s identities reflect separate but enmeshed characterizations of themself. (Weiss 2019). When biometrics identifiers are among those being tracked, this enmeshment becomes paradoxically intimate; user’s physical bodies are increasingly traced through apps as their data is liable to be shipped and shared with less-than-privy eyes. 

Okay, wait, let’s return to Gattaca. Again, we do not share the film’s fantasy of living in a genetically engineering civilization — the conversation regarding eugenics and biopolitics is its own can of worms. However, we can’t ignore its commentary on what advanced media technology has the potential to enable regarding how we interact with human identity. The genetic registry is of particular interest in this regard. It can be accessed and shared among any corporate entity to corroborate a DNA test against one another, returning a binary marker of the person before them as either ‘valid’ or ‘invalid’ — good or bad. In this action, they are robbed not only of any semblance of mobility, agency, or equality before their peers but of all of these virtues and rights we take for granted regarding the very act of self-conception. Vincent possesses every cognitive faculty which would let him go to space but is prohibited by an omnipresent registry that reduces his human potential to the delimitation of a collectivized knowledge base.

It’s best to proceed with my point in comparing the technology of Gattaca and Balfour’s concerns regarding FemTech. FemTech does not create or define a person as a living, breathing human. It does, however, draw increasingly sensitive categories around one’s digital self  — the way that our digital sphere conceives and represents the human. More important, however, is that this data becomes increasingly foreign to oneself and is, as evidenced through legal proceedings regarding such data, flowing further away from our explicit control. To think that current laws come close to matching the potential exploitative — or discriminative — features of digital technology made increasingly intricate year by year is both naive and explicitly wrong. Sci-Fi is one manner in which we speculate future outcomes of our current actions. In walking away from Gattaca, we must affirm a commitment to upholding the human behind the numbers, not the numbers themselves. 

References:

Balfour, Lindsay Ann. “Surveillance, Biopower, and Unsettling Intimacies in Reproductive Tracking Platforms.” Topia: Canadian Journal of Cultural Studies, vol. 48, 2024, pp. 58-75.

Weiss, Dennis M. “Seduced by the Machine Human-Technology Relations and Sociable Robots.” Design, Mediation, and the Posthuman, Bloomsbury Academic, 2016, pp. 217-232. Canvas Materials.